clip ons fitment

[yantheman]

Hi all, think I ask this before everyone disappears from the forum to the WDW :D

I bought a set of clip ons to replace the handle bar and they have no holes on them. How do I fit the control clusters on the left and right? They came off a Monster 900ie and sure the switches would be similar if not the same. I asked the previous owner and he told me he could not remember...

So I guess with the knowledgeable people on the forum can give me some help of how to fit the thing... I know I need to take off the top yoke and refit/reroute cables and hose etc etc.. but how do I go about in fitting the swtches? Do I drill the holes for the little plastic studs on the switches?

Thanks in advance

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1289/4666282838_c80ba383b2_b.jpg

http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1295/4666282926_2ae00e81df_b.jpg

[analogue_rogue]

i did.. when i fitted them to my last bike i lined them up to see wher ei wanted them and marked the nipple on the bar then drilled in...

[yantheman]

thanks for you reply, can I get away without drilling? previous owner didn't and how could he fix the throttle grip? :scratch:

I guess if I can get away without drilling then I won't drill the holes.

[rac3r]

I haven't drilled any holes, just tighten up real good :thumbsup:

[yantheman]

i see, thanks, next week I will try to fit them and see...

[slob]

I carefully removed the pegs from the switchgear and wrapped the bars in insulating tape until I achieved the desired interference fit.

[yantheman]

Thanks Rob! I was wondering how to fit the switches without the holes and if I cut the little tab, how would I stop the switches from merry-go-round!! Will do that next week. Thanks :thumbsup:

[simons]

I transferred the holes for switch gear and throttle using original bars as template, worked out perfectly.

[rac3r]

I might use slob's idea as well.

How many pegs are there on each side?

[yantheman]

3 total, 1 on the left and 2 on the right. The left peg is on the front half of the indicator (+ Hi-lo beam). The second is on the top half of start/stop switch. The third is at the bottom of the throttle housing(this is metal infact)... all three are in different sizes as well!! Dremel is out :D

[Chass]

I always cut the little tab off on both the switch & the throttle on my race bikes, if you just leave it & tighten it up it can crack the casting on the throttle.

[rac3r]

I always cut the little tab off on both the switch & the throttle on my race bikes, if you just leave it & tighten it up it can crack the casting on the throttle.

Yes I found this out a few weeks ago :biggrin:

Still tightens OK though, only a small piece came off

( Thanks Yan :thumbsup: )

[gary tompkins]

I take the pins off - way easier to get the right position

[analogue_rogue]

i always prefered to drill the holes simply cos its cheaper to replace the bars if you wanna go back to standard whereas i dont like the thought of the switches not being complete with lugs if i fitted the stock bars back on... (its just a perfectionist thing) they also save youhaving to tighten up the switches which can lead to overtightening and damaging of the switch or stripping of the thread inside the switch..

[yantheman]

Looks like its another scotoiler/no scotoiler thread! :D

Joking, don't hit me... :running:

I think I am inclined to do the de-pegs method. Just that I had to replace my bent stock bar unfortunately the replacement bar came from a 900 carb (i think) and the holes were all over the place and I had to redrill all the holes and I misaligned one and the start/stop switch isn't quite where it should be and it cannot be adjusted.

So this time I want a slightly more flexible approach

[Albie]

Tell me this. Do the bars rotate in the clamps. I f they do then all you need is the dimension from the outside of stock bars and copy to the clipon bars if you want the anti rotate holes. Just undo the bar clamps and rotate until happy.

[yantheman]

Hi Albie, the bars on the clip ons are not moveable/rotateable. The square ends that you can see in the photo is part of the bar (all one part from machining). So I can't rotate the bar to adjust the switchgears.

[gary tompkins]

They are the same set I've got on my 900ie - Redline clip-ons + optional riser blocks. I had a set of 53mm clamps machined up for mine, after I swapped to 916 fully adjustable showa's.

As stated before I didn't drill holes - just removed pins. Some of the switchgear was a little loose but taping underneath sorts it out. I've just done the same on a set of Renthal's fitted to trike. Drilling holes in alloy tube is a bit risky and it could weaken and lead to cracks. The Redline's are solid bar ends IIRC, and in answer to Albie's question don't rotate. The bar and it's end block that bolts to riser, are all machined as one piece. It bolts in two positions - either to front of clamp (minus riser) or on top of riser as per photo.

[gary tompkins]

Looks like its another scotoiler/no scotoiler thread! :D

Joking, don't hit me... :running:

I think I am inclined to do the de-pegs method. Just that I had to replace my bent stock bar unfortunately the replacement bar came from a 900 carb (i think) and the holes were all over the place and I had to redrill all the holes and I misaligned one and the start/stop switch isn't quite where it should be and it cannot be adjusted.

So this time I want a slightly more flexible approach


Oh... make sure the split clamp bolts are not too long, and ensure they are tight or bars shift under braking loads. One of mine was a few mm too long, and bit into the fork leg when tightened leaving a gouge in it :grump:

[yantheman]

Thanks GT for the pics and advice. My bike will look very similar to yours once the clip ons are fitted, except I will fit them under the top yoke. Mine is a 620sie and the forks' top are flushed to the top yoke. :biggrin:

[Albie]

Then personally I would fettle the lugs off if it were mine so I could adjust if I was not happy with the position. Thing is if you have standard bars and you put after markets rear sets you may need to reset bars. Go in with the Dremmel then.:biggrin:

[yantheman]

Thanks Albie, thats want I want, flexibility. Once the holes are drilled, it is not adjustable anymore... Better not to drill and have the ability to adjust.

[analogue_rogue]

i dunno.. i can see why its easier but something about "taping up the bars to make it fit" has a bit too much duct tape and not enough accuracy about it lol i have never cracked aluminium or alloy from drilling though!!! (i thought they were aluminium bars but that could just be my ignorance)