clip ons fitment

yantheman · 03-06-2010, 12:47 PM

Hi all, think I ask this before everyone disappears from the forum to the WDW

I bought a set of clip ons to replace the handle bar and they have no holes on them. How do I fit the control clusters on the left and right? They came off a Monster 900ie and sure the switches would be similar if not the same. I asked the previous owner and he told me he could not remember...

So I guess with the knowledgeable people on the forum can give me some help of how to fit the thing... I know I need to take off the top yoke and refit/reroute cables and hose etc etc.. but how do I go about in fitting the swtches? Do I drill the holes for the little plastic studs on the switches?

Thanks in advance

03-06-2010, 01:03 PM

i did.. when i fitted them to my last bike i lined them up to see wher ei wanted them and marked the nipple on the bar then drilled in...

yantheman · 03-06-2010, 01:07 PM

thanks for you reply, can I get away without drilling? previous owner didn't and how could he fix the throttle grip?

I guess if I can get away without drilling then I won't drill the holes.

03-06-2010, 01:47 PM

I haven't drilled any holes, just tighten up real good

yantheman · 03-06-2010, 02:04 PM

i see, thanks, next week I will try to fit them and see...

slob · 03-06-2010, 02:41 PM

I carefully removed the pegs from the switchgear and wrapped the bars in insulating tape until I achieved the desired interference fit.

yantheman · 03-06-2010, 02:48 PM

Thanks Rob! I was wondering how to fit the switches without the holes and if I cut the little tab, how would I stop the switches from merry-go-round!! Will do that next week. Thanks

03-06-2010, 03:20 PM

I transferred the holes for switch gear and throttle using original bars as template, worked out perfectly.

03-06-2010, 03:33 PM

I might use slob's idea as well.

How many pegs are there on each side?

yantheman · 03-06-2010, 03:40 PM

3 total, 1 on the left and 2 on the right. The left peg is on the front half of the indicator (+ Hi-lo beam). The second is on the top half of start/stop switch. The third is at the bottom of the throttle housing(this is metal infact)... all three are in different sizes as well!! Dremel is out

03-06-2010, 03:41 PM

I always cut the little tab off on both the switch & the throttle on my race bikes, if you just leave it & tighten it up it can crack the casting on the throttle.

03-06-2010, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chass

I always cut the little tab off on both the switch & the throttle on my race bikes, if you just leave it & tighten it up it can crack the casting on the throttle.

Yes I found this out a few weeks ago

Still tightens OK though, only a small piece came off

( Thanks Yan

)

gary tompkins · 03-06-2010, 04:00 PM

I take the pins off - way easier to get the right position

03-06-2010, 04:02 PM

i always prefered to drill the holes simply cos its cheaper to replace the bars if you wanna go back to standard whereas i dont like the thought of the switches not being complete with lugs if i fitted the stock bars back on... (its just a perfectionist thing) they also save youhaving to tighten up the switches which can lead to overtightening and damaging of the switch or stripping of the thread inside the switch..

yantheman · 03-06-2010, 04:40 PM

Looks like its another scotoiler/no scotoiler thread!

Joking, don't hit me...

I think I am inclined to do the de-pegs method. Just that I had to replace my bent stock bar unfortunately the replacement bar came from a 900 carb (i think) and the holes were all over the place and I had to redrill all the holes and I misaligned one and the start/stop switch isn't quite where it should be and it cannot be adjusted.

So this time I want a slightly more flexible approach

03-06-2010, 12:47 PM	#1
yantheman Bronze Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: London Bike: M620sie Posts: 348	clip ons fitment Hi all, think I ask this before everyone disappears from the forum to the WDW I bought a set of clip ons to replace the handle bar and they have no holes on them. How do I fit the control clusters on the left and right? They came off a Monster 900ie and sure the switches would be similar if not the same. I asked the previous owner and he told me he could not remember... So I guess with the knowledgeable people on the forum can give me some help of how to fit the thing... I know I need to take off the top yoke and refit/reroute cables and hose etc etc.. but how do I go about in fitting the swtches? Do I drill the holes for the little plastic studs on the switches? Thanks in advance

03-06-2010, 04:00 PM	#13
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	I take the pins off - way easier to get the right position __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

03-06-2010, 01:03 PM	#2
analogue_rogue Guest Posts: n/a	i did.. when i fitted them to my last bike i lined them up to see wher ei wanted them and marked the nipple on the bar then drilled in...

03-06-2010, 01:07 PM	#3
yantheman Bronze Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: London Bike: M620sie Posts: 348	thanks for you reply, can I get away without drilling? previous owner didn't and how could he fix the throttle grip? I guess if I can get away without drilling then I won't drill the holes.

03-06-2010, 01:47 PM	#4
rac3r Guest Posts: n/a	I haven't drilled any holes, just tighten up real good

03-06-2010, 02:04 PM	#5
yantheman Bronze Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: London Bike: M620sie Posts: 348	i see, thanks, next week I will try to fit them and see...

03-06-2010, 02:41 PM	#6
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,713	I carefully removed the pegs from the switchgear and wrapped the bars in insulating tape until I achieved the desired interference fit.

03-06-2010, 02:48 PM	#7
yantheman Bronze Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: London Bike: M620sie Posts: 348	Thanks Rob! I was wondering how to fit the switches without the holes and if I cut the little tab, how would I stop the switches from merry-go-round!! Will do that next week. Thanks

03-06-2010, 03:20 PM	#8
simons Guest Posts: n/a	I transferred the holes for switch gear and throttle using original bars as template, worked out perfectly.

03-06-2010, 03:33 PM	#9
rac3r Guest Posts: n/a	I might use slob's idea as well. How many pegs are there on each side?

03-06-2010, 03:40 PM	#10
yantheman Bronze Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: London Bike: M620sie Posts: 348	3 total, 1 on the left and 2 on the right. The left peg is on the front half of the indicator (+ Hi-lo beam). The second is on the top half of start/stop switch. The third is at the bottom of the throttle housing(this is metal infact)... all three are in different sizes as well!! Dremel is out

03-06-2010, 03:41 PM	#11
Chass Guest Posts: n/a	I always cut the little tab off on both the switch & the throttle on my race bikes, if you just leave it & tighten it up it can crack the casting on the throttle.

03-06-2010, 04:02 PM	#14
analogue_rogue Guest Posts: n/a	i always prefered to drill the holes simply cos its cheaper to replace the bars if you wanna go back to standard whereas i dont like the thought of the switches not being complete with lugs if i fitted the stock bars back on... (its just a perfectionist thing) they also save youhaving to tighten up the switches which can lead to overtightening and damaging of the switch or stripping of the thread inside the switch..

03-06-2010, 04:40 PM	#15
yantheman Bronze Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: London Bike: M620sie Posts: 348	Looks like its another scotoiler/no scotoiler thread! Joking, don't hit me... I think I am inclined to do the de-pegs method. Just that I had to replace my bent stock bar unfortunately the replacement bar came from a 900 carb (i think) and the holes were all over the place and I had to redrill all the holes and I misaligned one and the start/stop switch isn't quite where it should be and it cannot be adjusted. So this time I want a slightly more flexible approach