Bikesure_adrianflux

Non starter

A

AliDL

UKMOC Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2025
Messages
10
Location
Aberdeen
Bike
M750ie
First time Non starter 750ie, sudden this afternoon, motobatt battery nearly 7 years old, never shown any sign of reduced cranking , always on a ctek charger. Can these gel batts just die sudden?
I can hear the fuel pump and repeated clunking, have a short clip if I figure how to attach.
https://flic.kr/p/2rbCdce
 
Last edited:
A clip would help but my guess would be the battery. They are consumables after 7 years, replace it and then check its charging on the bike correctly. I think you can just attach the file but I've not put a video clip uo here before so idk.
 
Darren69 said:
They are consumables after 7 years,
Click to expand...
A sweeping statement is always the easiest to make!
My Motobatt is now 12 years old (or will be in July). It's still never been on a charger and had a whole year off the bike last year.

You need to first check the battery voltage, which should be above 12V and preferably nearer 13V.
Then see what happens to the voltage when you press the starter. It will probably dive with it "clunking" like that, so might not tell you much.

The dash lights don't appear to flicker when you thumb the starter, which might be a good sign.
It sounds like the solenoid failing to make proper contact to me?
This could be the solenoid itself, a very poor earth connection elsewhere, or a corroded starter terminal connection. (very common!)

You could try taking a jump lead from the positive battery terminal to the starter motor terminal and see if the starter spins properly.
Clamp it on the starter terminal first and then dab the other end on the battery, it's safer that way round. No need to have the ignition on for that test, but the engine should start if you do.

If you have found a low battery voltage and manage to get the engine running by jumping the starter or charging the battery up.
Then test the battery voltage with the engine running. You should be seeing about 14 volts across the terminals.
If it's higher than 15 volts then the rectifier/regulator is fried and so might your battery be.
If it just shows the static battery voltage before you ran the engine then it could be the reg/rec, a wiring fault or possibly a faulty alternator.

Come back when you've tested.
 
A sweeping statement but true, they wear out and from my experience 5 years is pretty good going but depends on many things like how its stored and charged etc. So without much more info on the current state of the battery, from my experience is the best way to go. By all means check the voltage now then again after a full charge. They can give 12v but still be not good, not able to supply enough amps to start the bike. Had one on my S4 lasted about 2 years, current one is doing better at about 5 years. Always kept ibside and tendered periodically, not constantly however. Would like to see the video though.
 
So far, tried Jumping the starter not enough Juice, did start to turn over as little then stopped. cleaned Starter terminal, a bit corroded, suspecting the ctek xs0.8 charger has been faulty for a while, allowing battery to discharge, so ordered a basic charger off Amazon. The Solenoid is clunking. I quickly tried jump leads from my Honda but still clunking, tho didn't start the Honda. Motobatt is showing a low voltage. Unable to start so Not sure at moment. maybe a new battery or solenoid?

https://flic.kr/p/2rbZC9F
 
Last edited:
That's a typical dead battery symptom imo but it could also be a number of other things too all battery and starter related so check those when you have a known good battery as they all contribute.
 
New Motobatt off EBay just 50 just now with a coupon from selected sellers, and relieved it started right up, the running volts look like 13-14+ would it exceed this at higher rpm & btw thanks for those really useful reply’s to my post.
https://flic.kr/p/2rcjbQy
 
Last edited:
It shouldn't exceed this but can if voltage regulator is faulty. That will kill a battery pretty quickly if overcharging much above that.
 
i have had a couple of dud NEW Motobatts and others that last many years
 
I cant see any motobatts for monsters at £50 ,, ll are over £100 ??????
 
jerry said:
That wont work on Monster 750 ,900 or 600 the battery terminals are wrong way round + needs to be on the right
Click to expand...
that’s true 620ie and 750ie positive on left good side, must be a different setup on the earlier frames!
 
Last edited:
AliDL said:
that’s true 620ie and 750ie positive on left good side, must be a different setup on the earlier frames!
Click to expand...
That's interesting. It might be to do with the frame change around 2002?
Is your battery upright with the terminals at the top, or does it lay down like the S4?
If so it might be more to do with the revised airbox, possibly?

Now you've got it sorted, it's a very good time to closely inspect the connections and cable condition of the three Yellow cables from alternator to reg/rec.
It's very important that the connections in particular are of low resistance. In other words, very clean, tight and conducting as well as possible.
Corrosion or looseness will create resistance and heat which will melt the connector and cable insulation. It will destroy your regulator, could boil the battery and it has been know to start a fire!

I had a close call with the standard plastic connector block, which had partially melted and the cables where locally scorched.
Luckily I do regular inspections and caught it.

I now use Gold connectors on those three connections, as I have done ever since on all my bikes.
I use 4mm Gold bullets available from model shops for RC aircraft and cars and inspect annually.
Others hard wire, or use tubular crimps.

If you're really a worrier, you can fit a battery monitor/charge warning light like this.
www.ebay.co.uk

GAMMATRONIX waterproof 12v LED Battery level / Alternator Charge monitor - E | eBay UK

This gives you Rubber wrapped construction for waterproofing and shock resistance. A Shallow Installation of only 29mm depth behind your panel surface. Integrated tri colour (Red, Green, Yellow) 10mm LED and microprocessor assembly.
www.ebay.co.uk
It was one of these that saved the day when the (new) reg/rec failed on my Commando.
There are some different versions.. The choice is yours.. :cool:
 
Last edited:
Don't the Motobatts still have 4 terminals so they can fit either way around? They used to iirc they called it Quadflex.
 
I have used ceramic connectors on my S4 Yellow cables they cant melt like the crummy plastic ones
 
Mr Gazza said:
That's interesting. It might be to do with the frame change around 2002?
Is your battery upright with the terminals at the top, or does it lay down like the S4?
If so it might be more to do with the revised airbox, possibly?

Now you've got it sorted, it's a very good time to closely inspect the connections and cable condition of the three Yellow cables from alternator to reg/rec.
It's very important that the connections in particular are of low resistance. In other words, very clean, tight and conducting as well as possible.
Corrosion or looseness will create resistance and heat which will melt the connector and cable insulation. It will destroy your regulator, could boil the battery and it has been know to start a fire!

I had a close call with the standard plastic connector block, which had partially melted and the cables where locally scorched.
Luckily I do regular inspections and caught it.

I now use Gold connectors on those three connections, as I have done ever since on all my bikes.
I use 4mm Gold bullets available from model shops for RC aircraft and cars and inspect annually.
Others hard wire, or use tubular crimps.

If you're really a worrier, you can fit a battery monitor/charge warning light like this.
www.ebay.co.uk

GAMMATRONIX waterproof 12v LED Battery level / Alternator Charge monitor - E | eBay UK

This gives you Rubber wrapped construction for waterproofing and shock resistance. A Shallow Installation of only 29mm depth behind your panel surface. Integrated tri colour (Red, Green, Yellow) 10mm LED and microprocessor assembly.
www.ebay.co.uk
It was one of these that saved the day when the (new) reg/rec failed on my Commando.
There are some different versions.. The choice is yours.. :cool:
Click to expand...
 
thanks will def check these out, the battery is laying down on its side on the 750ie where the + terminal then appears on the right., Always had a bit of concern with the rectifier, expecting it to go at some point, so def like to fit that battery monitor, but how is that fitting into the clock binnacle area?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top