Bikesure_adrianflux

M800Sie not starting - help

K

kencandig

Registered
Joined
Feb 15, 2024
Messages
7
Location
Edinburgh
Bike
M400
Hi, have stripped down my 800Sie doing valves, belts, injectors, throttle bodies & general clean & grease moving parts over the winter. Putting it back together and having trouble starting, see video. Switching on startup cycle looks ok, but relays buzz and no firing on pressing start button. Relays replaced with new. Short out starter and it turns over but no firing. Immobiliser light flashes then stays on. It was running before dismantling 😬. Ideas anyone? Tia
Can’t seem to download video
 
kencandig said:
Hi, have stripped down my 800Sie doing valves, belts, injectors, throttle bodies & general clean & grease moving parts over the winter. Putting it back together and having trouble starting, see video. Switching on startup cycle looks ok, but relays buzz and no firing on pressing start button. Relays replaced with new. Short out starter and it turns over but no firing. Immobiliser light flashes then stays on. It was running before dismantling 😬. Ideas anyone? Tia
Can’t seem to download video
Click to expand...
Have seen a previous thread, I’m starting with the aid of a booster pack, battery also charged and good, have cleaned up battery cable and earth connections..
 
check all the immobiliser connections , , give them a squirt of contact cleaner , make sure TPS is spot on , they can be finicky ,, I have an S4 ,,,
 
How many flashes does the immobilser light make?
I noted this down years ago when I was having a few starting problems which were an antenna and just one key being a problem.

In general terms if the system is OK, the Immobilizer LED stays off with no flashes, if it does flash you need to count the flashes as they're giving you a reason the immobilser stays active.

1. LED flashes once to indicate that the serial connection is missing (this is the direct connection - through the main wiring - between engine control unit and immobiliser control unit in the instrument panel);
2. LED flashes twice to indicate that the key in the switch, or the immobiliser antenna, or both, are faulty;
3. LED flashes three times to indicate that the system knows there's a key but does not recognize the key you have inserted;
4. LED flashes four times to indicate that the engine control unit has been programmed, but the immobiliser is blank. This is a "computer says no" thing, somehow it's lost it's all memory of your keys.

If you see any fault flashes at startup then the immobiliser kicks in, the LED comes on and stays on showing that ignition is inhibited.

So fixes for this:
For 1 flash clean the connecter block to the ECU. If it doesn't go away clean it properly ;) then start looking for breaks in the wiring.
For 2 flashes clean the antenna connecter. If it doesn't go away try the RED master key (if you have it) if it starts then reprogram the immobiliserfor your other keys. Potentially replace the antenna (unlikely to be broken as it's just a coil of wire) or replace the key (again unlikely as it's just a RIFD chip and pretty bullet proof). If you have the code card for the bike you can bypass this but you need to do it every time you want to start the bike.
For 3 flashes reprogram for your keys, should start with the red key though.
For 4 flashes it gets a bit more fun, your immobilser has reverted to it pre installation factory state and needs re-syncing using the RED key. Essentially reprogramming to use a key. If this doesn't work then something is wrong with the circuits in the clocks which is a whole new key/ecu recoding nightmare to deal with!
If you don't have the RED key then immobiliser might need to be completely deactivated (immo-off) in the software.
 
Last edited:
Check that the relays you fitted is the same as the ones that came off. Ducati often use a five pin relay for main ignition on that is different to the standard changeover type, instead of outputs 87 and 87A they have two 87 outputs, both live when energised. Try refitting the old relays if you still have them.
 
Nickj said:
How many flashes does the immobilser light make?
I noted this down years ago when I was having a few starting problems which were an antenna and just one key being a problem.

In general terms if the system is OK, the Immobilizer LED stays off with no flashes, if it does flash you need to count the flashes as they're giving you a reason the immobilser stays active.

1. LED flashes once to indicate that the serial connection is missing (this is the direct connection - through the main wiring - between engine control unit and immobiliser control unit in the instrument panel);
2. LED flashes twice to indicate that the key in the switch, or the immobiliser antenna, or both, are faulty;
3. LED flashes three times to indicate that the system knows there's a key but does not recognize the key you have inserted;
4. LED flashes four times to indicate that the engine control unit has been programmed, but the immobiliser is blank. This is a "computer says no" thing, somehow it's lost it's all memory of your keys.

If you see any fault flashes at startup then the immobiliser kicks in, the LED comes on and stays on showing that ignition is inhibited.

So fixes for this:
For 1 flash clean the connecter block to the ECU. If it doesn't go away clean it properly ;) then start looking for breaks in the wiring.
For 2 flashes clean the antenna connecter. If it doesn't go away try the RED master key (if you have it) if it starts then reprogram the immobiliserfor your other keys. Potentially replace the antenna (unlikely to be broken as it's just a coil of wire) or replace the key (again unlikely as it's just a RIFD chip and pretty bullet proof). If you have the code card for the bike you can bypass this but you need to do it every time you want to start the bike.
For 3 flashes reprogram for your keys, should start with the red key though.
For 4 flashes it gets a bit more fun, your immobilser has reverted to it pre installation factory state and needs re-syncing using the RED key. Essentially reprogramming to use a key. If this doesn't work then something is wrong with the circuits in the clocks which is a whole new key/ecu recoding nightmare to deal with!
If you don't have the RED key then immobiliser might need to be completely deactivated (immo-off) in the software.
Click to expand...
It’s a single flash, which sounds like the easiest fix. I’m working on it atm but just wanted to thank you for your detailed response, I’d be totally stuck without the help so greatly appreciated 👍 hopefully will be able to feed back positively
 
Zimbo said:
Check that the relays you fitted is the same as the ones that came off. Ducati often use a five pin relay for main ignition on that is different to the standard changeover type, instead of outputs 87 and 87A they have two 87 outputs, both live when energised. Try refitting the old relays if you still have them.
Click to expand...
Have now done that 👍 appreciated!
 
Nope. It’s got me flummoxed tbh, I’m learning but a bit of an electrical novice. I think it’s something simple but not simple for me! Thanks for your help 👍
 
Just to close off, I got the bike running tonight. Spotted under another thread that someone had reconnected the ecu earth to the battery which caused the main relay to chatter. That was after cleaning and checking every connector and testing the wires for continuity 😂. Few primes with the starter and off we went. Thanks again for your input this site is really helpful!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top