Not wishing to contradict Mickj, from my experience that pin needs to be a good sliding fit.
Too tight will just make it hard to get in and out and restrict the ability to turn the forks on the pin, which you need to do to get the axle out past the bottom of the stand.
Worse is too loose, as it can not only wobble alarmingly when you turn the forks, but if there is too much change in the angle of the long arm that the pin is on, there could be a potential clash with the mudguard or possibly headlamp as you pivot the bike up onto the stand.
Definitely put a blanket or some such on the mudguard when you first try the stand out and note the clearance. (Sometimes a good idea to remove the mudguard first.)
Also test what happens when you turn the forks enough to access the wheel spindle.
My Zero has a strange modern headlamp unit which reaches below the bottom yoke. The nearest pin in the set was too loose really and the stand clashed with both the mudguard and the headlamp as it pivoted up into place and then rested on the bottom of the (expensive) headlight.
Easy solution was to turn down a larger redundant pin from the set, now it works perfectly with no contact to any bodywork.
I'll give you another tip as well, which I've been meaning to post up for ages.
Being one of those people who doesn't enjoy a bad back, I learned my lesson after a nasty muscle pull when re-fitting the Monster rear wheel earlier this year.
The performance of resting the wheel on my foot as I squat and wrestle it into position to then stretch forward with the spindle is a perfect storm for lumbar hell!
Make it easy and buy a door wedge or air bag, as used by my fitter mates for positioning doors to hang them. including some very large doors I have made in the past.
They come in various sizes and have a little bladder which you use to inflate the bag precisely with your foot or hand.
Absolute bliss to just steer the wheel into place while watching all the holes come into line, just balancing the wheel with one hand.
It then stays in place while you tap the spindle through and tighten everything up.
They deflate with either a press button or a little turning tap. The deflation is also precise so you can control it going down too.
Works with a front wheel too, or even a car wheel.
I'll post this in it's own right soon, with some links to the wedges.
