This is a good question really and I meant to have a go at answering it while it was on the old site, but didn't quite manage it.
I enjoy cleaning my Monster and some of it is highly ritualised, like the final polish of the silencers before a ride, with Autosol or Silvo.
For wheels and other painted items I use a trigger atomising spray (squirt) of gentle detergent solution. I'm using one from Rock oil at moment called Dirt Blaster. I also used a Mucoff one, which was much the same.
Great for getting road grime and brake dust off wheels and also the tyre side walls. Never on brake discs.
Chain lube spots are more easily removed with a little clutch and brake cleaner on a rag. Also C&B cleaner is always the finale to a clean with a careful wipe round each side of each disc to remove water and any other contaminant that may have splashed on them.
If it's really mingin I will get a bucket of warm water with a dash of Wash and Wax stirred in, but try not to get any on the discs if possible.
I'll use a rag for that but a chamois would be the dogs I suppose.
Don't be tempted to put a squirt of dish detergent in the bucket unless you're really stuck. It has salt in it and can lead to minor corrosion if used long term.
If it only needs a cat wash, I reach for my Ultra Grime wipes. These are industrial wet wipes and will get most kind of muck off any surface except for stubborn greasy deposits. They are kind to paint and metals, even very kind to my skin and I'll use them to clean my hands very often.
I buy them in bulk and always have a packet on the go in both workshops. Brilliant for cleaning glue off woodwork jobs. About the only thing that's effective on uncured PU glue.
As mentioned above C&B cleaner is a favourite for anything oily or greasy. I always buy a 5 litre container and never aerosols.
I'll pour a little into a take away tub and then use an old toothbrush, which will get in pretty much anywhere. Good way of cleaning the chain and sprockets.
Again doesn't hurt paint or finishes. I do admit to cleaning my fingers with it occasionally, but not sure that's a great idea, latex gloves are your friend.
This would clean up your levers and controls with a little polish with a dry cloth afterwards.
However after 33k miles I would remove the levers and toothbrush them all round in the take away tub, then reassemble with a smear of moly grease on the pivots.
I couldn't comment on bathroom foam and It might just work, but test it your bike not mine!
I do however use Mr Muscle foaming drain cleaner on the engine every now and then to bust hardened grime.
I'll pour a little of both parts into a take away tub, whereupon it starts to foam straightaway. Then brush it onto the engine, into fins and all the crevices, with a toothbrush or bottle brush, whatever takes your fancy.
Wash off with water fairly quickly and repeat if needed.
A combination of that and Gunk seems to bring the silver engine parts up fairly clean with plenty of scrubbing.
The exhaust pipes get an annual electro-polish with my collection of mops from Metal Polishing Supplies.
The other polished metal occasionally gets the Autosol, but is kept good mostly with Silvo. which comes in a tin and is impregnated wadding, Used to be called Duraglit. I'll use that on chrome and the anodised fork legs too as its much more gentle than Autosol.
For the paint and lacquered carbon I've got some lovely Farcela G10 compound and wax.
