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05-06-2004, 03:54 AM | #1 |
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Suspension Settings
Hi,
The trackday is looming - so I thought I'd better get the suspension sorted - current settings unknown I just got on it and rode Before changing to the standard settings which I'm am sure are probably designed for someone lighter than my 15st (95kg) frame..I thought I'd see if anyone had any words of wisdom on optimum (errrrhum) settings Standard settings from the book seem to be:- Front compression 12 clicks rebound 11 clicks Preload 16mm Rear compression 2 clicks rebound 19 clicks Preload ??? Anyone any suggestions on what settings to try? without turning my S4 into a kangaroo?. Thanks Plug |
05-06-2004, 05:20 PM | #2 |
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See this weeks MCN; got a suggested suspension setting for s4 for 10st and 16st peeps
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05-06-2004, 08:32 PM | #3 | |
1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dartford, Kent
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 7,241
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Quote:
MCN articles recommended settings for S4 with 16st rider... Front preload - 9 1/4 turns from fully out Front compression - 11 clicks from fully in Front rebound - 12 clicks from fully in Rear preload - 22mm thread wound down Rear compression - 10 clicks from fully in Rear rebound - 2 turns from fully in
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GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! |
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06-06-2004, 09:38 PM | #4 |
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Thanks guys - I'll give those settings a try..
Plug |
15-06-2004, 07:34 PM | #5 |
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Hi
While on the subject of settings, whats the setting for my 2001 900ie metallic Thanks |
17-06-2004, 01:01 PM | #6 |
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Take a gander at SPORT RIDER's suggested suspension setup tables for your bike...
http://www.sportrider.com/bikes/146_...ttings/#ducati I also own an S4 and I too am perhaps a bit heavy for it (I weigh about 100kg in gear), but the suspension can still be sorted to suit. I've experimented alot with my bike and have found the front preload a bit too stiff in the factory setting; the rear preload is far too soft in the factory setting; rebound and compression damping on both ends just about right. I now have 17mm of thread showing on the shock; I added 20mm of rear ride height via the heim jointed adjuster; I reduced fork preload to the noted 10 turns out from full hard and left the rebound and compression damping at factory specs. The bike handles very, very well. I took my Fazer Thou to the track in April and I can't wait to take my S4 back to MAM as well. Hope this helps. |
19-06-2004, 06:48 AM | #7 | |
Um, thinking of something
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Barnehurst
Bike: S4r
Posts: 476
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More settings please?
Quote:
Thanks |
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19-06-2004, 02:03 PM | #8 |
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Thanks for the s4 settings but I'm after the settings for a m900ie 2001
Cheers |
19-06-2004, 10:02 PM | #9 |
1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dartford, Kent
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 7,241
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Chas,
What spec suspension has your 900ie got - Is it the same as the 900Sie (fully adjustable Showa's and Ohlins at the back) or much more basic than that?
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GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! |
20-06-2004, 08:58 AM | #10 |
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Hi gary
It's the lesser model the rear shock is an adjustable sachs not to sure what the front is, but its the rear shock that needs setting, it seems to be a bit mushy and there is not a lot of thread left on the shock to tension the spring any more. this is why I'm asking for the settings to check if this is correct or not. Thanks |
20-06-2004, 11:26 AM | #11 |
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Chas
...................you have a PM..........................
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20-06-2004, 04:56 PM | #12 | |
Um, thinking of something
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Barnehurst
Bike: S4r
Posts: 476
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Quote:
ta simon |
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20-06-2004, 08:24 PM | #13 | |
1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dartford, Kent
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 7,241
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Quote:
Standard settings red in brackets... Front preload - 8 1/4 turns from fully out (8 turns) Front compression - 15 clicks from fully in (12 clicks) Front rebound - 12 clicks from fully in (11 clicks) Rear preload - 19mm thread wound down (16mm) Rear compression - 14 clicks from fully in (19 clicks) Rear rebound - 1 turns from fully in (2 turns) Sorry for delay - took me a while to hunt down my old copy of MCN. I'd loose my bollox if they weren't in a bag these days
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GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! Last edited by gary tompkins; 20-06-2004 at 08:27 PM.. |
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20-06-2004, 09:05 PM | #14 | |
1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dartford, Kent
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 7,241
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Maybe give this a try?
Quote:
If you have a fully adjustable front & rear ends this is the basic drill.... Front End 1. Back off all damping and preload on forks to minimum settings. 2. Adjust static sag, which is the distance the forks compress (from fully extended) under the bikes weight only to 22-25mm using preload adjusters. 3. Adjust the compression damping to prevent the forks from compressing too rapidly or bottoming out under heavy braking, ideally leaving around 10-15 mm of travel remaining. you can check this by putting a cable tie around one of the stantions and seeing where it finishes up after a ride. 4. Adjust the rebound damping to stop the forks "kicking back" too rapidly after hitting bumps or releasing front brake. I've ended up with mine set sightly stiffer (2 clicks more) than the compression damping. Rear End 1. Back of all damping to minimum 2 Measure rear static sag (again weight of bike only) from fully extended to compressed, using 2 fixed reference points - I used seat lock barrel and the middle of the wheel spindle. The difference should be in the 7 to 10mm range. Adjust if needed using spring preload nuts with 'C' spanner. 3. Set compression damping to the minimum needed to prevent excessive squat down (compression) under heavy acceleration or wallowing under cornering loads. 4. Add just enough rebound damping to control kick back after hitting single large bumps, but still allowing the spring to recover fast enough to soak up ripples - repeated small to medium bumps. Just worked through this routine on mine, which has 916 front forks and Technoflex shock at rear, and the difference was amazing. A good sign is when front and rear ends feel the same, and you can test this standing next to the bike and pressing down on the centre of the tank. Both front and rear suspension should compress and return by a similar amount and at the came rate. Mine now does - sorted! Mallory Park here we come
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GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! Last edited by gary tompkins; 20-06-2004 at 09:13 PM.. |
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21-06-2004, 02:44 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
It was summat else Gary..................he's a hard Monny to track down. |
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