M796 Rearsets/Ohlins

[Starla]

Hi Everyone,

I'm attempting to share some photos of some new Rearsets now on my bike. These are cheap (but very nicely machined) copies of Sato Racing Rearsets, made by FXCNC and bought on ebay. Cost was £120 vs $675 !!

As you can see these really clean up the rear of the bike, and get rid of the hideous integrated stock Rearsets/rear footpegs.









Available in black, gold, silver, red etc they fit the 696 through to 1100 range with "minimal issues" (a new rear brake switch was needed and the rear brakes needed bleeding)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Ducat...p2047675.l2557

At the same time as fitting the Rearsets, the progressive spring on my Sachs shock was replaced by a linear Ohlins spring, and sag etc was done.

It is at this point that I must HUGELY THANK Luddite (Vince), who has not only pointed me in the right direction for front & rear suspension upgrades (Maxton front, Ohlins rear), but gave freely of his time to actually FIT the rear spring and Rear sets, during a fun-filled afternoon on Monday.

He has been an invaluable Zen Master of all things Monster, and I CANNOT THANK HIM ENOUGH !!

The pics aren't that great, but I wanted to get some taken before the (now) torrential rain started.

Huge improvement to the bike, and HUGE THANKS to Vince (not a Luddite at all !!)

Let us know what you think !!

Best
STARLA xx

Looks good mate, how much of a job is it to fit them,?

The thought of undoing that big old nut has put me off doing a job like this for years

[Mr Gazza]

We'll never be able to thank Luddite enough, he's a star.

I quite like your dinky saddle bags and I bet they take a back pack type bag on top too?
Looks like they also lock on to that particular bike, but wouldn't on mine.
What are they?

[Doggy]

Originally Posted by alickswud

Looks good mate, how much of a job is it to fit them,?

The thought of undoing that big old nut has put me off doing a job like this for years

The big old nut wasn't that bad to undo on mine. The smaller bolts were more of a pain to remove.

[Doggy]

Yes, I echo gazzas words. Vine is the fountain of monster knowledge. Would love to actually meet him one day!

[Darren69]

Luddite, isn't actually he's Monsterite and sure know's his stuff. There are some incredible bargains to be found in China and such and not all are complete trash either, you just need to sort out the crap from the good, they look really nice though. I sold some similar S4R ones recently to someone on here for a bargain price and we were both happy.

[Luddite]

Glad to help, Laurence, and pleased you were happy with the results

I was really impressed with the quality of the rearsets; obviously the design is excellent, as you'd expect being a Sato copy, but the manufacture is also very good. The kit even included a small brass bush/spacer to allow the link rod to be switched to the outside of the shift arm. No instructions - but even the genuine Sato ones don't come with instructions according to their website.

Originally Posted by alickswud

Looks good mate, how much of a job is it to fit them,?

The thought of undoing that big old nut has put me off doing a job like this for years

Pretty straightforward actually, despite the lack of instructions. The big bolt (24mm) is 55Nm and the two 8mm allen bolts underneath are 36Nm so not stupidly tight. I whizzed them straight off with my impact wrench but you can also do it easily manually, as I did with my Evo (before I bought the impact wrench).

A couple of points to note if you go for these Chinese footrests:

First, you can't use your existing brake light switch so need to fit a pressure switch instead. While there was one in the kit, it was a bulky, automotive style, banjo switch with no weather protection and it would have needed a double-length banjo bolt to fit it (not supplied). Laurence separately ordered a banjo bolt switch, which was only a few pounds. If you do use a bolt-style switch, make sure it's M10 x 1.00 not the more common M10 x 1.25.

Second, whichever switch you fit, you'll probably need to add the Superseal connector like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Origninal...s/112637325372

If you're not confident fitting the Superseal connector and you're willing to sacrifice your original switch, you could cut off the original plug and splice it onto the new switch either by soldering or with bullet connectors, suitably weather-proofed of course, ideally with heatshrink.

Lastly, the front 8mm allen bolt on the gear change footrest, is also the rear mounting bolt of the sidestand. So, if you try to put the bike on the stand before you replace that bolt, the stand will probably give way. (Please don't ask how I know! If there was a :redface: emoji, I would insert it here! Luckily, no harm done.)

Laurence, you mentioned that you'd like to fit a rubber to the gear change pedal. I remembered that Sato offered one as an option and, sure enough, a check of their website shows both a nylon one (ST-001D $15) and rubber-sleeved one (ST-001R $18). https://www.satoracing.com/pedaltips.htm



Since your rearsets are Sato copies, these pedals should also fit yours. The UK Sato dealer is https://www.arhcustom.co.uk so you might be able to order one from them. I see they charge an eye-watering £722 for the 796 Sato version, which makes yours even more of a bargain!

[Starla]

Hi,

They’re a Ducati Performance Tailpack - as you rightly spotted the base of. The pack zips to the top. The base pockets are very useful. It fits the 696, 795/6, 1100. I got it from the “For Sale’ on the forum. I believe they are quite rare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3R_ioKt_vE

Best
Starla

[Starla]

Originally Posted by Starla

Hi,

They’re a Ducati Performance Tailpack - as you rightly spotted the base of. The pack zips to the top. The base pockets are very useful. It fits the 696, 795/6, 1100. I got it from the “For Sale’ on the forum. I believe they are quite rare: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e3R_ioKt_vE

Best
Starla

Sorry, this is a reply to Mr Gazza

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks for the info Starla. I think it's very neat.

As suspected it won't fit mine as I don't have the side bolt holes, but it's food for thought for a little mod to my Oxford tail pack... Cheers

[350TSS]

Just caught up with this one, looking at the pictures I think the gear change rod should go between the engine casing and the small lever attached to the gear change shaft.
From memory on M900 the lever has a recess to take the head of the bolt and I doubt that the design of the lever has changed. If it hasn't when you do up the rod bolt to the lever you will be pushing the spherical bearing into this recess.
I could be (and probably am) completely wrong.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by 350TSS

I think the gear change rod should go between the engine casing and the small lever attached to the gear change shaft.
From memory on M900 the lever has a recess to take the head of the bolt and I doubt that the design of the lever has changed. If it hasn't when you do up the rod bolt to the lever you will be pushing the spherical bearing into this recess.

The 796 lever has the same recess as the M900, Richard, but...

Originally Posted by Luddite

The kit even included a small brass bush/spacer to allow the link rod to be switched to the outside of the shift arm. No instructions - but even the genuine Sato ones don't come with instructions according to their website.

The geometry of the link rod is such that, if you mount it in the original position, (between the shift arm and crankcase), it interferes with the body of the rearsets.