1100 Evo stand switch/neutral light gremlins.

crawsue · 15-04-2018, 12:21 PM

Kept in a nice cosy garage and not been out since last November, won't turn over with side stand down , but ok when stand up, put stand down and it cuts out.
When ignition turned on neutral light ok then goes out, even though it's in neutral, could these faults be connected? Or is it "gremlins? Runs fine but annoying and slightly concerned it might leave me at the roadside.
Any help appreciated

rollo22 · 15-04-2018, 12:33 PM

Could be the switch on side stand bracket they get full of road gunk and crap.

Darren69 · 15-04-2018, 01:16 PM

If the neutral light doesn't stay lit I think the engine will cut out if the stand goes down as it thinks the bike is in gear. Thats how mine works, so more likely to be neutral light I would say. If the clutch is pulled it might let the engine run with the stand down or at least it should allow you to restart it.

Luddite · 15-04-2018, 03:18 PM

Darren is correct, the motor will not start or run if the sidestand is down and the bike is in gear (unless the clutch is pulled in). The ECU relies on the output from the neutral light switch to decide when the bike's in gear so it's likely to be a problem with the neutral light switch connector.

If you look on the rear of the crankcase just beside the rear brake cylinder you'll see a large grey rubber plug beneath which lives the connector.

Ease off the rubber cap and carefully remove the bullet connector from the switch.

You'll probably find traces of dirt or corrosion and maybe some moisture trapped in the housing. Clean everything up and dry it out. If the connector seems loose, try squeezing it a little with some pliers. Reassemble with some silicone grease if you have it and you should find everything is fine again.

If it still doesn't work, it might be the switch itself. If you have a multimeter, test the switch with a positive probe on the centre connector and negative on the frame (earth). You should have continuity with the bike in neutral and nothing when in gear.

Hope that solves it. Let us know how you get on.

crawsue · 15-04-2018, 04:04 PM

Many thanks for quick response, great to be in the company of lateral thinkers!
OK at the spannering, usually, not so hot at lateral thinking.

Will attend to it tomorrow....pishing down again now....but it is Glasgow.

crawsue · 15-04-2018, 04:29 PM

Jobs a good 'un, didn't look damp or grungy but a squirt of WD and a clean up and dry off and it's fine...thanks Luddite. CR

Luddite · 15-04-2018, 04:57 PM

Great news! Now all you need is some decent weather to enjoy it...☔

Darren69 · 16-04-2018, 02:12 PM

I thought that would be it. When was the grey plug (31) introduced? I don't have one on my '02. Seems like a good idea as it is a bit of a dirt trap there.

Luddite · 16-04-2018, 03:29 PM

I think it came in with the 696/1100 in 2008, Darren. Perhaps you could retrofit one (75810451A)?

Darren69 · 16-03-2021, 02:29 AM

I'm gonna resurrect this thread since I am still considering the retrofit of the rubber plug to the earlier bikes. Have any others already done this mod?

Obviously this was a recognised weakness of the earlier bikes by the factory and considering my experience and the improvements made to shield this plug from the elements. I can confirm that it can cause starting issues and engine management warning light if defective or like mine was partially defective so would sometimes be ok but some other times not.

I have since replaced the complete wire with one from an S2R800 which is the same thing, same part number and this has fixed the issue.

However I think the factory may have been on to a better solution with the 696 with the rubber bung, so if the hole in the casing is the same size then potentially it could work. The only other consideration for me is if the rubber bung is threaded onto the wire or just sits in place over it?

Does anyone have any pics of the plug, and how it fits on the wire,since I can't find any online?

Luddite · 16-03-2021, 12:46 PM

The 'tail' of the plug is open at the back and just sits over the wire while the wire itself and connector feed through a hole in the neck at the top of the plug.

Since they're only about £3 a pop, I'd risk it!

Darren69 · 16-03-2021, 01:38 PM

Thanks for confirming, I did suspect that would be so, In which case I would probably have to sacrifice the fragile looking rubber boot that is currently fitted as I doubt that it will pass through the hole.

I'm now inclined to leave well alone for now, since it is working ok, but if I get issues again I will re-consider and make up my own wire with the rubber bung as I had already ordered the Ampseal plug to do just that before I got the S2R one.

Darren69 · 16-03-2021, 01:51 PM

Here's the original thread:-

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...t=neutral+plug

If you have starting issues and random eng. mgmt light coming on I would recommend to check it because it can cause a whole world of pain if the connection is not 100% tight and clean.

Luddite · 16-03-2021, 01:54 PM

Note that, as per the photo and diagram above, the plug is designed for the single-wire and bullet connector of the later neutral light switches. You would have to cut into it if you wanted to fit it with the two-wire Ampseal plug or, alternatively, cut and refit the connector after threading the wires through the plug.

15-04-2018, 12:21 PM	#1
crawsue Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Glasgow Bike: M1100evo Posts: 256	1100 Evo stand switch/neutral light gremlins. Kept in a nice cosy garage and not been out since last November, won't turn over with side stand down , but ok when stand up, put stand down and it cuts out. When ignition turned on neutral light ok then goes out, even though it's in neutral, could these faults be connected? Or is it "gremlins? Runs fine but annoying and slightly concerned it might leave me at the roadside. Any help appreciated

15-04-2018, 12:33 PM	#2
rollo22 Moderator Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Moreton-in-Marsh Bike: M1100evo Posts: 1,082	Could be the switch on side stand bracket they get full of road gunk and crap. __________________ IF ALL ELSE FAILS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS

15-04-2018, 01:16 PM	#3
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	If the neutral light doesn't stay lit I think the engine will cut out if the stand goes down as it thinks the bike is in gear. Thats how mine works, so more likely to be neutral light I would say. If the clutch is pulled it might let the engine run with the stand down or at least it should allow you to restart it. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

15-04-2018, 04:04 PM	#5
crawsue Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Glasgow Bike: M1100evo Posts: 256	Brilliant Many thanks for quick response, great to be in the company of lateral thinkers! OK at the spannering, usually, not so hot at lateral thinking. Will attend to it tomorrow....pishing down again now....but it is Glasgow.

15-04-2018, 04:29 PM	#6
crawsue Bronze Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Glasgow Bike: M1100evo Posts: 256	Sorted Jobs a good 'un, didn't look damp or grungy but a squirt of WD and a clean up and dry off and it's fine...thanks Luddite. CR

15-04-2018, 03:18 PM	#4
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	Darren is correct, the motor will not start or run if the sidestand is down and the bike is in gear (unless the clutch is pulled in). The ECU relies on the output from the neutral light switch to decide when the bike's in gear so it's likely to be a problem with the neutral light switch connector. If you look on the rear of the crankcase just beside the rear brake cylinder you'll see a large grey rubber plug beneath which lives the connector. Ease off the rubber cap and carefully remove the bullet connector from the switch. You'll probably find traces of dirt or corrosion and maybe some moisture trapped in the housing. Clean everything up and dry it out. If the connector seems loose, try squeezing it a little with some pliers. Reassemble with some silicone grease if you have it and you should find everything is fine again. If it still doesn't work, it might be the switch itself. If you have a multimeter, test the switch with a positive probe on the centre connector and negative on the frame (earth). You should have continuity with the bike in neutral and nothing when in gear. Hope that solves it. Let us know how you get on.

15-04-2018, 04:57 PM	#7
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	Great news! Now all you need is some decent weather to enjoy it...☔

16-04-2018, 02:12 PM	#8
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	I thought that would be it. When was the grey plug (31) introduced? I don't have one on my '02. Seems like a good idea as it is a bit of a dirt trap there. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

16-04-2018, 03:29 PM	#9
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	I think it came in with the 696/1100 in 2008, Darren. Perhaps you could retrofit one (75810451A)?

16-03-2021, 02:29 AM	#10
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	I'm gonna resurrect this thread since I am still considering the retrofit of the rubber plug to the earlier bikes. Have any others already done this mod? Obviously this was a recognised weakness of the earlier bikes by the factory and considering my experience and the improvements made to shield this plug from the elements. I can confirm that it can cause starting issues and engine management warning light if defective or like mine was partially defective so would sometimes be ok but some other times not. I have since replaced the complete wire with one from an S2R800 which is the same thing, same part number and this has fixed the issue. However I think the factory may have been on to a better solution with the 696 with the rubber bung, so if the hole in the casing is the same size then potentially it could work. The only other consideration for me is if the rubber bung is threaded onto the wire or just sits in place over it? Does anyone have any pics of the plug, and how it fits on the wire,since I can't find any online? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

16-03-2021, 12:46 PM	#11
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	The 'tail' of the plug is open at the back and just sits over the wire while the wire itself and connector feed through a hole in the neck at the top of the plug. Since they're only about £3 a pop, I'd risk it!

16-03-2021, 01:38 PM	#12
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	Thanks for confirming, I did suspect that would be so, In which case I would probably have to sacrifice the fragile looking rubber boot that is currently fitted as I doubt that it will pass through the hole. I'm now inclined to leave well alone for now, since it is working ok, but if I get issues again I will re-consider and make up my own wire with the rubber bung as I had already ordered the Ampseal plug to do just that before I got the S2R one. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

16-03-2021, 01:51 PM	#13
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	Here's the original thread:- http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...t=neutral+plug If you have starting issues and random eng. mgmt light coming on I would recommend to check it because it can cause a whole world of pain if the connection is not 100% tight and clean. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

16-03-2021, 01:54 PM	#14
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	Note that, as per the photo and diagram above, the plug is designed for the single-wire and bullet connector of the later neutral light switches. You would have to cut into it if you wanted to fit it with the two-wire Ampseal plug or, alternatively, cut and refit the connector after threading the wires through the plug.