1200 brake fluid..... What to buy?

26-03-2018, 04:06 PM

My rear brake does absolutely f all..... What fluid do I need? Do I just need a generic 4 dot fluid or does it need to be the same as what's already in there?

Luddite · 26-03-2018, 04:36 PM

I use this Motul DOT 3&4.

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 can be mixed without problems. DOT 5 however is silicone based and cannot be mixed with any of the other three fluids. It's coloured purple to ensure it isn't added in error.

I think your rear brake is a similar arrangement to my 1100 Evo with an underslung caliper so, if the brake nipple is at the bottom of the caliper, then you're probably going to have to remove and flip it if you want to bleed it fully.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...1&postcount=12

Stinger101 · 26-03-2018, 06:59 PM

You don't mention pedal travel but I had an issue on mine where the travel became longer and longer until zero braking effect at all. It was nothing to do with the fluid. Your issue may be entirely different of course. This cured mine to better than new. It never faded again.

26-03-2018, 08:08 PM

The pedal moves 3ish inches before any braking...
Only the last inch does anything, and then it doesn't do much....
What was your probably fix?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stinger101

You don't mention pedal travel but I had an issue on mine where the travel became longer and longer until zero braking effect at all. It was nothing to do with the fluid. Your issue may be entirely different of course. This cured mine to better than new. It never faded again.

26-03-2018, 08:11 PM

Thanks...
I've not got a rear stand for it yet.... Absolute ball ache cleaning the chain today...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

I use this Motul DOT 3&4.

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 can be mixed without problems. DOT 5 however is silicone based and cannot be mixed with any of the other three fluids. It's coloured purple to ensure it isn't added in error.

I think your rear brake is a similar arrangement to my 1100 Evo with an underslung caliper so, if the brake nipple is at the bottom of the caliper, then you're probably going to have to remove and flip it if you want to bleed it fully.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...1&postcount=12

Stinger101 · 26-03-2018, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davkyt

The pedal moves 3ish inches before any braking...
Only the last inch does anything, and then it doesn't do much....
What was your probably fix?

That sounds exactly like my symptoms. The brake should apply with 10mm of travel. It did after I had it adjusted. It became immediate and very effective. It was crap from new so perhaps the factory don't bother checking these things.....

Pedro · 26-03-2018, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davkyt

The pedal moves 3ish inches before any braking...
Only the last inch does anything, and then it doesn't do much....
What was your probably fix?

That’s huge amount of travel, mine on the 12R moves an inch at most. That def needs bleeding, mine needed the same when it was about 4 months old, Moto Rapido did it under warranty as the abs system apparently complicates it!

26-03-2018, 08:43 PM

I've looked in the manual about adjustment but it's already at its highest setting...
And the piston thing sys it need a 1mm of travel before it moves... Which it does so u can't adjust that... All I can think is air in the system or a faulty caliper..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stinger101

That sounds exactly like my symptoms. The brake should apply with 10mm of travel. It did after I had it adjusted. It became immediate and very effective. It was crap from new so perhaps the factory don't bother checking these things.....

26-03-2018, 08:49 PM

I don't know how the previous owner out up with it... The rear brake isn't useful in any situation... I've had to retrain my brain to always use the front instead.
I'll pop to motormania down the road tomorrow to see if they have the fluid I might need. I've got a bit of fish tank tube that might fit the nipple thing.... I've not bled the brakes before..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro

That’s huge amount of travel, mine on the 12R moves an inch at most. That def needs bleeding, mine needed the same when it was about 4 months old, Moto Rapido did it under warranty as the abs system apparently complicates it!

Mr Gazza · 26-03-2018, 08:50 PM

You do need to be very careful not to adjust out too much freeplay on the earlier Monsters. Not sure if that would also be the case on the current models?

I carefully removed nearly all the freeplay out of my M900ie brake lever for the very first ride out. I learned the hard way that it needs a good gap, or else the brake slowly binds up and locks the back wheel. Frustrating for me a few miles from home on back lanes, but not so funny for those who had this happen on the Motorway!!

Darren69 · 26-03-2018, 08:59 PM

Rear brake needs to be bled upside down on most Ducati models, if the 1200 is the same. Its crap anyway when bled but should hold the bike on hills etc. but should lock the wheel easily.

26-03-2018, 09:06 PM

You mean upside down like Luddites pic. ? 👆

I dont even know how to get the wheel off or adjust the bloody chain on this one yet...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darren69

Rear brake needs to be bled upside down on most Ducati models, if the 1200 is the same. Its crap anyway when bled but should hold the bike on hills etc. but should lock the wheel easily.

Luddite · 26-03-2018, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davkyt

I'll pop to motormania down the road tomorrow to see if they have the fluid I might need. I've got a bit of fish tank tube that might fit the nipple thing.... I've not bled the brakes before..

If you've got to go out for fluid anyway, I'd recommend picking up a bleed hose, possibly with a one-way valve. They're under a fiver and the last thing you want is for an ill-fitting hose to pop off and spray corrosive brake fluid everywhere.

Having said that, if you don't think you can remove the caliper without a paddock stand, don't bother even trying to bleed it as you're unlikely to be able to remove the air with the bleed nipple on the bottom of the caliper.

Luddite · 26-03-2018, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davkyt

You mean upside down like Luddites pic. ? ��

Yep - that's the only way I know how to get all the air out. If you look at Capo's blingy caliper, you can see by the position of that bleed nipple that it was designed to be underslung:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=56204

Alternatively, a vacuum bleeder or forcing the fluid in through the bleed nipple may work but I haven't tried either.

buzzbomb · 26-03-2018, 09:53 PM

Be very careful about removing the free play out of the back brake, I've recovered a couple of bikes in the past that their owner had done just that and the consequences are not pretty..
As far as I know to successfully bleed the rear calliper its best to be removed and held as high as the hose will allow not forgetting to install some thing between the pads to stop them popping out.

26-03-2018, 04:06 PM	#1
davkyt Guest Posts: n/a	1200 brake fluid..... What to buy? My rear brake does absolutely f all..... What fluid do I need? Do I just need a generic 4 dot fluid or does it need to be the same as what's already in there?

26-03-2018, 04:36 PM	#2
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	I use this Motul DOT 3&4. DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 can be mixed without problems. DOT 5 however is silicone based and cannot be mixed with any of the other three fluids. It's coloured purple to ensure it isn't added in error. I think your rear brake is a similar arrangement to my 1100 Evo with an underslung caliper so, if the brake nipple is at the bottom of the caliper, then you're probably going to have to remove and flip it if you want to bleed it fully. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...1&postcount=12 Last edited by Luddite; 26-03-2018 at 05:08 PM..

26-03-2018, 06:59 PM	#3
Stinger101 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Alcester Bike: M1200s Posts: 241	You don't mention pedal travel but I had an issue on mine where the travel became longer and longer until zero braking effect at all. It was nothing to do with the fluid. Your issue may be entirely different of course. This cured mine to better than new. It never faded again. Last edited by Stinger101; 26-03-2018 at 07:01 PM.. Reason: Important info added

26-03-2018, 08:50 PM	#10
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,805	You do need to be very careful not to adjust out too much freeplay on the earlier Monsters. Not sure if that would also be the case on the current models? I carefully removed nearly all the freeplay out of my M900ie brake lever for the very first ride out. I learned the hard way that it needs a good gap, or else the brake slowly binds up and locks the back wheel. Frustrating for me a few miles from home on back lanes, but not so funny for those who had this happen on the Motorway!! __________________

26-03-2018, 08:59 PM	#11
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	Rear brake needs to be bled upside down on most Ducati models, if the 1200 is the same. Its crap anyway when bled but should hold the bike on hills etc. but should lock the wheel easily. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

26-03-2018, 09:53 PM	#15
buzzbomb Gold Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: widnes Bike: M1100s Posts: 780	Be very careful about removing the free play out of the back brake, I've recovered a couple of bikes in the past that their owner had done just that and the consequences are not pretty.. As far as I know to successfully bleed the rear calliper its best to be removed and held as high as the hose will allow not forgetting to install some thing between the pads to stop them popping out.