696 starter motor replacement

[MrsC_772]

Suspect my (2010 model) 696 is trying to punish me for my years of riding it all year round in all weather (apart from the current snow) and not cleaning it very often.

It refused to start the other morning. Push button, whir, click click but no starting (or even cough-splutter attempt to turn the engine over).

We thought maybe the battery had had enough (current battery has been on for 3 1/2 years) so fitted a new one but it made no difference.

Andy got the multimeter out - we're getting 12 v at the starter motor, so we don't think it's the relay. Andy reckons the starter motor itself is the problem.

I saw Kameloil's thread from last year (http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...rter+motor+696) and SaintakaML saying replacing the starter is a quick job. However, the 696 workshop manual makes it seem as if replacing the starter motor is a total PITA (involving draining the oil, removing the clutch slave cylinder to get the crank case cover off, which means draining the hydraulic circuit for the clutch, and that removing the crank case cover needs some special tool) just to get to the bolts that hold the starter motor in place. Are they serious? Has anyone ever replaced the starter motor themself? Is it really such a big job?

Those who know me know that I'm not what you'd call an enthusiastic or skilled home mechanic ...

Any tips (beyond empty my wallet at Moto Rapido or Snells yet again)?

If DIY replacement is less of a mare than the manual suggests, is this the right Electrex World starter motor for my bike http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/SM9162.html

[slob]

you’ll want to drain the oil but the clutch slave can be removed from the case and held out of the way (eg with a bungee) without touching the hydraulics.

[BigOz]

I have a SM9162 on mine so you should be good with one of those. You will have to use the pinion off the stock starter rather than the replacement one if I remember right.

[Luddite]

As slob says, there's no need to drain the clutch hydraulics and, as far as the "special tool" is concerned, it's just a cheap and cheerful bolt and plate affair. Laser tools do a version for only £15 https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/lase...-cover-puller/



You'll also need some Threebond sealant

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THREEBOND...-/111607407837

NB there is a crankcase screw beneath the sprocket cover that is often hidden by accumulated chain lube. Make sure you remove it before using the puller, otherwise you will crack your crankcase.

This YouTube video (6:45 - 13:00) shows what's involved in removing and reapplying the Threebond. It's important to ensure you've removed all of the old sealant before applying the new stuff if you want to avoid leaks.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLx...&v=tapkMZk81E4

By the way, here's a picture of my crankcase taken when I changed the flywheel. The arrow shows where the starter motor engages with the intermediate gear. I think there are just three screws holding the starter to the crankcase.



Oh, and before you say anything, that picture is before the Threebond was cleaned off!

[350TSS]

Clean all the crud out of the void where the chain runs as there is a screw (at 10.00 o'clock from the sprocket centre in picture above just to the left of the clutch push rod hole ) which if you do not know is there will cause you to crack the alternator casing if you do not undo it . Guess how I know

[AndyC_772]

Hi all,

Is there any danger of damaging whatever it is that the puller uses for leverage? As the middle bolt rotates, I wouldn't want to grind away at something important.

I have a brake caliper retraction tool which I think could be pressed into service for this job, just drill a couple of holes at the right spacing for the two bolts in the cover, and poke bolts through them.

I can get the Laser tool, but not until Friday at the earliest.

[slob]

it’s just an m8 bolt that pushes against the end of the crank. the inspection cover threads are the weakest bit. As others have said, watch out for the cover bolt under the slave cylinder, it’s often hidden by crud.

[Albie]

Newe starter motor gasket not expensive rather than going through all the hassle again after if it leaks.

[Luddite]

No danger. The bolt bears against the end of the crankshaft. The Laser (and all the other copycat tools) is just a clone of the actual Ducati "special tool" 88713.1749, (which works in exactly the same way), but for at least £100 cheaper!


This is the official Ducati tool.

[AndyC_772]

Crankcase cover is off, starter removed and disassembled. The brushes were completely worn out, and some water has clearly got in too and caused some corrosion. To be fair, it cleaned up UK, and might be possible to resurrect with a service kit (if such a thing exists...?), but she's ordered a new one anyway. Probably not a bad idea after 70k miles.

All the various new gaskets, oil, bolts etc are on order, so hopefully the bike will be back on the road next week. Fingers crossed I can get it all back together and it doesn't leak oil!

[Geoff]

You can get brush kit from ducati (better in my opinion) as insulator exactly the same or electrex. In my case a slight file of insulator was required.

[AndyC_772]

Bike is back together, it started first time, and hasn't "marked its territory" overnight

[rollo22]

Originally Posted by AndyC_772

Bike is back together, it started first time, and hasn't "marked its territory" overnight

Well done Andy the Mrs will make a mechanic out of you yet.....

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Albie

Newe starter motor gasket not expensive rather than going through all the hassle again after if it leaks.

I put a smear of threebond on mine. Hasn't leaked but on my recent stripdown the starter motor won't pull away from the case.

As it's working fine, I'm not going to force it. Rather wait until the motor needs replacing at which point it won't matter if I break it...

[Darren69]

Threebonds good stuff, but I doubt it's that strong?