Monster Refresh continued

Flip · 03-07-2016, 09:33 AM

Going on from last years' refresh of my 1997 900 (http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...onster+refresh) and in preparation for another little jaunt over to the Continent (we are still allowed to go there right?) I have been busy in the garage again so thought I would start another thread documenting all the fun.

Firstly on the list was to try and cure the problem I had on a rather hot day (remember that one?) a couple of months ago when the dreaded vapour lock struck again.

A phone call to Moto Rapido and a day later this lot arrived:

So then it was off with the old and on with the new:

As there is a rebuild kit available it made sense to replace the innards of the vacuum fuel pump:

Nice and clean and ready to go back on:

03-07-2016, 11:24 AM

Looks good mate

Sometimes the smallest job is the most satisfying

Flip · 03-07-2016, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nottsbiker

Looks good mate

Sometimes the smallest job is the most satisfying

Thanks, trouble is these small jobs always tend to turn into much larger ones once I get started.

Flip · 03-07-2016, 01:20 PM

So as the vacuum fuel tap isn't rebuildable I had no choice as to buy a new one while I was changing the hoses.

SteveG · 03-07-2016, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flip

Thanks, trouble is these small jobs always tend to turn into much larger ones once I get started.

.... Here we go... One thing leads to another... Be a full fuel tank respray and FCR41 conversion before you know it...

Flip · 03-07-2016, 01:30 PM

And while the tank was off the bike I thought I'd address the slightly notchy feeling steering that has niggled me for a while. It's a bit of a weird one as it's most noticeable when riding at filtering speeds where I'm constantly adjusting input to the bars yet during the MoT the tester picked it up when the steering neared full lock.

Anyway, almost twenty years isn't bad for a set of bearings so my tried and trusted step ladder was called into service yet again:

A little persuasion using some of my favourite tools and they were separated for the first time since leaving the factory:

Spot the difference:

Flip · 03-07-2016, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveG

.... Here we go... One thing leads to another... Be a full fuel tank respray and FCR41 conversion before you know it...

My tank doesn't need a respray at the moment thanks and my thoughts on the refresh have always been just that, to replace what is worn out and to improve those items which can be without taking away too much from the 'factory look' rather than a full on restoration as it doesn't need one.

However, if you know of a set of FCR's going for a reasonable price...........

Flip · 03-07-2016, 01:38 PM

Then it's the little things you notice as you go, this time new oil cooler mounting rubbers as the originals were starting to split:

Darren69 · 03-07-2016, 01:52 PM

They don't owe you anything much after 20 odd years. Originals would have been ball bearings though so they must have been changed previously?

Flip · 03-07-2016, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darren69

They don't owe you anything much after 20 odd years. Originals would have been ball bearings though so they must have been changed previously?

No not twenty odd years- almost twenty, it's a '97 900 but definitely not balls-

I bought the bike when it was two years old from my mate (who bought it new) and it only had 900 miles on when I got it.

Darren69 · 03-07-2016, 02:12 PM

Thats interesting since the S4 is ball bearings, which I thought was a bit odd for a modern bike.

Flip · 03-07-2016, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darren69

Thats interesting since the S4 is ball bearings, which I thought was a bit odd for a modern bike.

Yes I agree it does seem a little odd. I even and went and double checked my original factory manual for my model and year and it says there that they are taper roller bearings.
Obviously doesn't explain why the S4 went back to ball races though.

Flip · 03-07-2016, 11:33 PM

O.K. so had fun in the garage tonight and got the new bearing rings into the frame without any problems:

I also found that the vacuum cleaner extension pipe was the perfect diameter to fit over the steering stem and onto the inner surface of the lower bearing meaning a couple of gentle taps with Mr R Mallet was all that was needed:

Flip · 03-07-2016, 11:43 PM

So the steering stem is fitted back into the frame and I can already tell there is a massive, if not unexpected improvement in smoothness but the information I have for tightening the stem up is to do it by feel.

Now I wonder does anyone have anything a little more scientific please?

To give you all an idea, with just the lower yoke fitted and the lock nut tightened to where there is no play in the bearings but movement is still smooth I am getting a 1Kg pull force using a spring balance (the kind used for fishing- which I also use for measuring timing belt tension) from full lock to full lock.

How does that sound?

04-07-2016, 09:40 AM

mv specify hand tight plus 10 degrees.
Honda has the best steering stem tightening process (for ball bearings) that I have seen proposed by any of the manufacturers... They say to tighten the steering stem to where it takes 4 ft.lb. to get the head to turn. To set this I strap a stick across (horizontal) the the fork tubes so that it sticks out more than 1' from the steering head vertical axis. I then use a fish scale to pull on the stick at a point 1' out from the steering axis. I tighten the steering head bearing until it takes 4-5 lb of pull on the fish scale, to move the head.

03-07-2016, 09:33 AM	#1
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	Monster Refresh continued Going on from last years' refresh of my 1997 900 (http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...onster+refresh) and in preparation for another little jaunt over to the Continent (we are still allowed to go there right?) I have been busy in the garage again so thought I would start another thread documenting all the fun. Firstly on the list was to try and cure the problem I had on a rather hot day (remember that one?) a couple of months ago when the dreaded vapour lock struck again. A phone call to Moto Rapido and a day later this lot arrived: So then it was off with the old and on with the new: As there is a rebuild kit available it made sense to replace the innards of the vacuum fuel pump: Nice and clean and ready to go back on: __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 29-11-2016 at 10:04 PM..

03-07-2016, 01:20 PM	#4
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	So as the vacuum fuel tap isn't rebuildable I had no choice as to buy a new one while I was changing the hoses. __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 29-11-2016 at 10:04 PM..

03-07-2016, 01:30 PM	#6
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	And while the tank was off the bike I thought I'd address the slightly notchy feeling steering that has niggled me for a while. It's a bit of a weird one as it's most noticeable when riding at filtering speeds where I'm constantly adjusting input to the bars yet during the MoT the tester picked it up when the steering neared full lock. Anyway, almost twenty years isn't bad for a set of bearings so my tried and trusted step ladder was called into service yet again: A little persuasion using some of my favourite tools and they were separated for the first time since leaving the factory: Spot the difference: __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 29-11-2016 at 10:06 PM..

03-07-2016, 01:38 PM	#8
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	Then it's the little things you notice as you go, this time new oil cooler mounting rubbers as the originals were starting to split: __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 29-11-2016 at 10:07 PM..

03-07-2016, 01:52 PM	#9
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,023	They don't owe you anything much after 20 odd years. Originals would have been ball bearings though so they must have been changed previously? __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

03-07-2016, 11:24 AM	#2
Nottsbiker Guest Posts: n/a	Looks good mate Sometimes the smallest job is the most satisfying

03-07-2016, 02:12 PM	#11
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,023	Thats interesting since the S4 is ball bearings, which I thought was a bit odd for a modern bike. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

03-07-2016, 11:33 PM	#13
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	O.K. so had fun in the garage tonight and got the new bearing rings into the frame without any problems: I also found that the vacuum cleaner extension pipe was the perfect diameter to fit over the steering stem and onto the inner surface of the lower bearing meaning a couple of gentle taps with Mr R Mallet was all that was needed: __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 29-11-2016 at 10:09 PM..

03-07-2016, 11:43 PM	#14
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	So the steering stem is fitted back into the frame and I can already tell there is a massive, if not unexpected improvement in smoothness but the information I have for tightening the stem up is to do it by feel. Now I wonder does anyone have anything a little more scientific please? To give you all an idea, with just the lower yoke fitted and the lock nut tightened to where there is no play in the bearings but movement is still smooth I am getting a 1Kg pull force using a spring balance (the kind used for fishing- which I also use for measuring timing belt tension) from full lock to full lock. How does that sound? __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

04-07-2016, 09:40 AM	#15
DrD Guest Posts: n/a	mv specify hand tight plus 10 degrees. Honda has the best steering stem tightening process (for ball bearings) that I have seen proposed by any of the manufacturers... They say to tighten the steering stem to where it takes 4 ft.lb. to get the head to turn. To set this I strap a stick across (horizontal) the the fork tubes so that it sticks out more than 1' from the steering head vertical axis. I then use a fish scale to pull on the stick at a point 1' out from the steering axis. I tighten the steering head bearing until it takes 4-5 lb of pull on the fish scale, to move the head.