grabby wet clutch

I think its time for a general overhaul of the bike but id quite like to sort the grabby clutch now.

When i try and start the bike its struggling. ive tried to push start it and found that in gear even with the clutch fully pulled back the gears still feel engaged. Its a struggle to get it moving.

I can bleed the clutch (its not been done as long as ive owned the bike) and replace the oil and filter but is there anything else i should be checking?

There are a lot of things that can and do wear out that need to be checked, ie, brake pads ,brake disc thickness, spark plugs, wheel bearings, head races, air filter, brake and clutch fluid changes, check for free play on rear brake operating rod. Everything that moves will eventually require attention, hopefully, not all at once. Why wait for an MOT failure, check it over now, you know you want to.

Yep. Got all the new bits for that already. Was more thinking about other things to check that would cause a grabby clutch.

[johnboy44]

Don't lose too much sleep over the fact that the clutch drags when its cold most bikes will, if it does it when it's warm thats a bigger problem.

[utopia]

Originally Posted by johnboy44

Don't lose too much sleep over the fact that the clutch drags when its cold most bikes will, if it does it when it's warm thats a bigger problem.

A good point, and it got me thinking......

When I first read this thread I was puzzled, particularly by the "even with the clutch pulled fully back, the gears still feel engaged" bit.
My analysis was that, either the release mechanism was failing (fluid or mechanical) or there was a fault within the clutch unit itself. It sounded a bit more serious than just hydraulics needing bleeding.
But then, you often don't know who you're talking to on an internet forum, or what their background or experience is.

Every bike I've ever had, has had a clutch which sticks solid when left standing, and won't release by merely pulling the lever when started from cold.
I'm sure many will be familiar with the massive "clunk" when engaging first gear for the first time.
Over the years I've developed a habit of engaging first gear before I start the engine, then pulling the clutch lever fully in and backpedalling the bike such that the sticking clutch causes the engine to pull back against compression. From that point (and while keeping the transmission under load), a sudden backward tug frees the clutch.
The habit developed from pulling a four-stroke single back to "just past tdc" before kickstarting it.
I then reselect neutral and start the engine as normal. (I then usually pull, hold and release the clutch a time or two in the hope of splashing a bit of oil around the plates too).
Selecting first gear then doesn't involve the big "clunk".

This process has become so instinctive over the years, that I do it without thinking.
But to someone who hasn't had lots of bikes, or isn't particularly mechanically minded, what I accept as normal, could appear to be a fairly major fault, particularly when trying to push-start the bike from cold.
So, apologies if I'm stating the obvious, but....in addition to dragging,multiplate clutches nearly always stick at first (which is mostly/partly what johnboy was saying anyway, but I thought I'd elaborate....). I'd be worried if mine didn't stick.
The above procedure is the solution.

After that, bleed the hydraulic fluid before looking much further.
Try and pick a dry day to minimise moisture absorbtion, and either use all the fluid (change the brake fluid too), or rebottle the unused fluid in a clean bottle filled to the brim, otherwise it will absorb atmospheric moisture and deteriorate. (I have to tell you that I find half whiskey bottles to be excellent for this).

Should I get out more....????

[gary tompkins]

Slave or master cylinder could be knackered but hopefully bleeding with fresh fluid will fix it

[Capo]

Originally Posted by utopia

A good point, and it got me thinking......

When I first read this thread I was puzzled, particularly by the "even with the clutch pulled fully back, the gears still feel engaged" bit.
My analysis was that, either the release mechanism was failing (fluid or mechanical) or there was a fault within the clutch unit itself. It sounded a bit more serious than just hydraulics needing bleeding.
But then, you often don't know who you're talking to on an internet forum, or what their background or experience is.

Every bike I've ever had, has had a clutch which sticks solid when left standing, and won't release by merely pulling the lever when started from cold.
I'm sure many will be familiar with the massive "clunk" when engaging first gear for the first time.
Over the years I've developed a habit of engaging first gear before I start the engine, then pulling the clutch lever fully in and backpedalling the bike such that the sticking clutch causes the engine to pull back against compression. From that point (and while keeping the transmission under load), a sudden backward tug frees the clutch.
The habit developed from pulling a four-stroke single back to "just past tdc" before kickstarting it.
I then reselect neutral and start the engine as normal. (I then usually pull, hold and release the clutch a time or two in the hope of splashing a bit of oil around the plates too).
Selecting first gear then doesn't involve the big "clunk".

This process has become so instinctive over the years, that I do it without thinking.
But to someone who hasn't had lots of bikes, or isn't particularly mechanically minded, what I accept as normal, could appear to be a fairly major fault, particularly when trying to push-start the bike from cold.
So, apologies if I'm stating the obvious, but....in addition to dragging,multiplate clutches nearly always stick at first (which is mostly/partly what johnboy was saying anyway, but I thought I'd elaborate....). I'd be worried if mine didn't stick.
The above procedure is the solution.

After that, bleed the hydraulic fluid before looking much further.
Try and pick a dry day to minimise moisture absorbtion, and either use all the fluid (change the brake fluid too), or rebottle the unused fluid in a clean bottle filled to the brim, otherwise it will absorb atmospheric moisture and deteriorate. (I have to tell you that I find half whiskey bottles to be excellent for this).

Should I get out more....????

Thats how to start a Spitfire

[Flip]

...worth doing on older bikes is going through all the electrical connections giving them a brush up and using a little silicone grease when re-fitting them.

Pay particular attention to the main Earth and the Starter cable as it's very open to road muck from the front wheel and corrodes quite badly causing the bike to require more current to turn over putting extra strain on the battery, starter and the sprag- a spit back can actually knacker the sprag bearings apparently.

A couple of hours doing this can save a lot of heartache by the roadside in the future, plus if your bike is a little slow turning over it will make it a whole lot better when you press that button.

Thanks guys. Ill overhaul as much as possible whilst its off the road for the winter.