S4 cutting out

20-06-2010, 11:12 AM

S4 has been cutting out for no apparent reason, seems to happen if I'm
in first gear, for example yesterday filtering slowly through heavy traffic, 30 mins into riding and it went dead. Everything else works, lights, indi's. Swtiched it on and off and the usual movement from the clocks. It's as if the cut out switch has been flicked!!!!

It has had clip ons put in and lowered the clocks so the only thought is that there's something going on with wires because ifctge mods??

I left it to stand for 20 or so mins and then it fired up fine and I continued on my way. This is happened a few tomes now but thus was the longest amount of time it's been until
it decided to fire up again.

Anyone have any ideas ??

LVC · 20-06-2010, 11:32 AM

Check out the side-stand cut off switch isn't full of grud and causing it to cut out

Edit: Also check out the neutral light connection (back of block near rear suspension) as this caused mine some minor issues a while back - bit of WD-40 and a wiggle worked for mine.

20-06-2010, 08:23 PM

checked all connections and no issues, bike is never full of crud!! ha ha ha

I think its the immobiliser!!!

20-06-2010, 08:30 PM

it may be a long shot but have you checked that the R/R is ok? Are you getting 14ish volts at the battery with the engine running? I had intermitent running/cutting out issues, which were cured on replacement of R/R - mine was sending too many volts and fried the battery as well.

20-06-2010, 08:38 PM

apologies for question - what is R/R short for?

20-06-2010, 08:44 PM

R/R = regulator/rectifier.
My S4 used to suffer from the coil/plug cap breaking down on the front cylinder when hot

20-06-2010, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by littlejimmy12

apologies for question - what is R/R short for?

Regulator rectifier. It regulates and and converts the charge from the alternator. to the battery. It is under the seat on the S4. Mine went recently. It is a doddle to to replace.

20-06-2010, 09:19 PM

thank u all

28-08-2010, 05:48 PM

Hi,
My s4 is doing what bunny speaks about here. When the bike gets hot and is idling it doesn't fire consistently on one cylinder....It's like one drops off for a second and then gets spark again..I's only when the bike is at idle though and is worse when the lights are switched on.It's driving fine but in traffic when hot it gets troublesome.I got the front coil/plug cap replaced and it seemed ok for a day or so but now it's back to the same thing. Is this an r/r problem.
All help appreciated.

28-08-2010, 08:07 PM

check the power across the battery with engine running.. normal (with lights off) is around 13.25 - 14.5 anything outside these ranges idnicates a charging problem try revving the engine while metering thi also, the charge rate shouldnt change.

slipperyweeguy · 30-08-2010, 12:33 PM

I usually use my S4 only on open roads in the dry and avoid towns when possible. I had been aware of the lumpy and uneven slow running on my bike, but it had not really been a problem. However, due to getting the 16 year old an Aprilia 50 and keeping her company while she gets experience, I had really been cursing the S4's manners. Over the space of a couple of days spent at between 5 and 45 mph the Ducati began to misfire consistently at low rpm, and cut out a couple of times when it got hot at traffic lights. The temperature-related symptoms indicated a coil and simply unplugging the white connector onto the front coil identified it as the front coil that was mis-firing. (Smooth stable idle on just the rear cylinder).
Pattern parts not listed anywhere, so trawling the 'net offered some good info. I Ebay-purchased a coil for a 03-08 CBR600rr and it has sorted the S4's problems. Took it into Central Glasgow just as a test, and it was perfect. Similar (approx 5 inch / 128mm long coils are used on lots of bikes.
Turns out the Denso coils are mostly quite similar electrically, and the differences are length, and the seals, which just slide off. They use the same connector plugs. I measured the resistance on the Duc and CBR coils and they were the same. The fix took 60 seconds and cost £24. Hope this is of help, as a lot of folk seem to have similar problems.
http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/betthome/...dencoil002.jpg

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/betthome/...oncoils001.jpg

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/betthome/...oncoils002.jpg

30-08-2010, 01:22 PM

Cheers Andrew! Useful; bit of info!

jerry · 30-08-2010, 05:14 PM

The low speed runing can be vastly improved with PC111 and my map

jerry · 31-08-2010, 08:30 AM

thanks for the info about the CBR 600 coils I just bought 4 off ebay for £25 as spares

slipperyweeguy · 31-08-2010, 06:04 PM

Happy if it helps.. Not just cbr coils as shown - i spoke to a friend who is a very experienced mechanic last night, and so long as the coils are the right length(128mm), and have a primary resistance (measure between the two terminals at the top*) of about 1.4 ~ 1.5 ohms ish we should be ok. For instance, if you or a friend happens to have a late r6, zx636, zx10, and maybe a hayabusa / other gsxr from certain years then compare - better than silly money at the dealer.
*first touch the meter's probes together to get a resistance reading for the meter itself, then deduct that from the reading you get from the coil. I read that 2006 R6 is the right size and has a range of 1.2 ~ 1.6 ohms. Ideally we want the resistance to be the same as the Ducati. Too little resistance means the coil flows more current, which heats the ECU (bad).
Info is rather sparse, and I think it would be great to build a table of coil types that we can use. I have a list of possibles/probables at the house, and will post it in a day or two. I could not find a Denso application list anywhere.

20-06-2010, 11:12 AM	#1
littlejimmy12 Guest Posts: n/a	S4 cutting out S4 has been cutting out for no apparent reason, seems to happen if I'm in first gear, for example yesterday filtering slowly through heavy traffic, 30 mins into riding and it went dead. Everything else works, lights, indi's. Swtiched it on and off and the usual movement from the clocks. It's as if the cut out switch has been flicked!!!! It has had clip ons put in and lowered the clocks so the only thought is that there's something going on with wires because ifctge mods?? I left it to stand for 20 or so mins and then it fired up fine and I continued on my way. This is happened a few tomes now but thus was the longest amount of time it's been until it decided to fire up again. Anyone have any ideas ??

20-06-2010, 11:32 AM	#2
LVC The Loire Valley Monster Join Date: May 2006 Location: South of Le Mans Bike: S4 Posts: 709	Check out the side-stand cut off switch isn't full of grud and causing it to cut out Edit: Also check out the neutral light connection (back of block near rear suspension) as this caused mine some minor issues a while back - bit of WD-40 and a wiggle worked for mine. __________________ *Kiss French, Play Japanese, Ride Italian....*

30-08-2010, 12:33 PM	#11
slipperyweeguy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Strathaven Bike: Other Not a Ducati Posts: 55	S4 cutting out when hot + poor slow running I usually use my S4 only on open roads in the dry and avoid towns when possible. I had been aware of the lumpy and uneven slow running on my bike, but it had not really been a problem. However, due to getting the 16 year old an Aprilia 50 and keeping her company while she gets experience, I had really been cursing the S4's manners. Over the space of a couple of days spent at between 5 and 45 mph the Ducati began to misfire consistently at low rpm, and cut out a couple of times when it got hot at traffic lights. The temperature-related symptoms indicated a coil and simply unplugging the white connector onto the front coil identified it as the front coil that was mis-firing. (Smooth stable idle on just the rear cylinder). Pattern parts not listed anywhere, so trawling the 'net offered some good info. I Ebay-purchased a coil for a 03-08 CBR600rr and it has sorted the S4's problems. Took it into Central Glasgow just as a test, and it was perfect. Similar (approx 5 inch / 128mm long coils are used on lots of bikes. Turns out the Denso coils are mostly quite similar electrically, and the differences are length, and the seals, which just slide off. They use the same connector plugs. I measured the resistance on the Duc and CBR coils and they were the same. The fix took 60 seconds and cost £24. Hope this is of help, as a lot of folk seem to have similar problems. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/betthome/...dencoil002.jpg http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/betthome/...oncoils001.jpg http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/betthome/...oncoils002.jpg

30-08-2010, 05:14 PM	#13
jerry Old Git Join Date: May 2006 Location: Cricklade Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,822	The low speed runing can be vastly improved with PC111 and my map __________________ MONSTERMAN Last edited by jerry; 31-08-2010 at 08:29 AM..

31-08-2010, 08:30 AM	#14
jerry Old Git Join Date: May 2006 Location: Cricklade Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,822	thanks for the info about the CBR 600 coils I just bought 4 off ebay for £25 as spares __________________ MONSTERMAN

20-06-2010, 08:23 PM	#3
littlejimmy12 Guest Posts: n/a	checked all connections and no issues, bike is never full of crud!! ha ha ha I think its the immobiliser!!!

20-06-2010, 08:30 PM	#4
retskcid Guest Posts: n/a	it may be a long shot but have you checked that the R/R is ok? Are you getting 14ish volts at the battery with the engine running? I had intermitent running/cutting out issues, which were cured on replacement of R/R - mine was sending too many volts and fried the battery as well.

20-06-2010, 08:38 PM	#5
littlejimmy12 Guest Posts: n/a	apologies for question - what is R/R short for?

20-06-2010, 08:44 PM	#6
Bunny Guest Posts: n/a	R/R = regulator/rectifier. My S4 used to suffer from the coil/plug cap breaking down on the front cylinder when hot

20-06-2010, 09:19 PM	#8
littlejimmy12 Guest Posts: n/a	thank u all

28-08-2010, 05:48 PM	#9
bonesaw Guest Posts: n/a	Hi, My s4 is doing what bunny speaks about here. When the bike gets hot and is idling it doesn't fire consistently on one cylinder....It's like one drops off for a second and then gets spark again..I's only when the bike is at idle though and is worse when the lights are switched on.It's driving fine but in traffic when hot it gets troublesome.I got the front coil/plug cap replaced and it seemed ok for a day or so but now it's back to the same thing. Is this an r/r problem. All help appreciated.

28-08-2010, 08:07 PM	#10
analogue_rogue Guest Posts: n/a	check the power across the battery with engine running.. normal (with lights off) is around 13.25 - 14.5 anything outside these ranges idnicates a charging problem try revving the engine while metering thi also, the charge rate shouldnt change.

30-08-2010, 01:22 PM	#12
weimeranerman Guest Posts: n/a	Cheers Andrew! Useful; bit of info!

31-08-2010, 06:04 PM	#15
slipperyweeguy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Strathaven Bike: Other Not a Ducati Posts: 55	Happy if it helps.. Not just cbr coils as shown - i spoke to a friend who is a very experienced mechanic last night, and so long as the coils are the right length(128mm), and have a primary resistance (measure between the two terminals at the top) of about 1.4 ~ 1.5 ohms ish we should be ok. For instance, if you or a friend happens to have a late r6, zx636, zx10, and maybe a hayabusa / other gsxr from certain years then compare - better than silly money at the dealer. first touch the meter's probes together to get a resistance reading for the meter itself, then deduct that from the reading you get from the coil. I read that 2006 R6 is the right size and has a range of 1.2 ~ 1.6 ohms. Ideally we want the resistance to be the same as the Ducati. Too little resistance means the coil flows more current, which heats the ECU (bad). Info is rather sparse, and I think it would be great to build a table of coil types that we can use. I have a list of possibles/probables at the house, and will post it in a day or two. I could not find a Denso application list anywhere.