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Members: 603 | Total Threads: 50,800 | Total Posts: 518,356 Currently Active Users: 734 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, john-freda |
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18-07-2008, 10:02 AM | #1 |
Fanactical volunteer
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kent
Bike: M900
Posts: 9,033
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A Bit of Advice to Projects
If you are planning a frame getting powdercoated or sprayed up you may like me have the problem of frame number dissappears. What seems to have happpened to mine was the shotblasting has taken most of the dotmatrix lettering away so its almost flat.
Right first of DONT worry about it if it happens. My MoT guy was gutted I had tryed to reveal the frame numbers and ruined the paint job. He told me they dont need to see frame numbers for an MoT.He was well impressed with the bike as it is now and it passed without a hitch other than one indicator decided not to work ( bulb contact needed bending a bit) He said its a joy to see bikes to come in that are clean and looked after. I always make a bit of an effort to present vehicles clean. I have to sort out my daughters 106 now so we will see. I even kept the Termis on and was a tad worried if he said were too loud. Nothing said at all. Oh for the headlamp that used to direct the wrong way was fine a I reversed the deflector over winter. |
18-07-2008, 10:25 PM | #2 |
You Are What You Is
Join Date: May 2005
Location: A Foward Location
Bike: S4r
Posts: 1,948
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Also, when powder coating a frame, make sure that the inside faces of the engine mount bosses are masked. On the S*R, the rocker pivot bosses need masking in the same way.
I can make out the number on mine I think the coater took it easy in this area. |
19-07-2008, 09:59 AM | #3 |
1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Dartford, Kent
Bike: M900ie
Posts: 7,241
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Make sure you mask all bearing surfaces and tapped holes. The powder coat is a bugger to remove afterwards if you don't. Also ensure the caot is properly removed from eathing points during re-build, otherwise you'll be looking at a heap of electrical gremlins later on.
Another tip for those re-painting injected tanks... The rubber rain seal on the top of the filler assembly is a total PITA to fit. I found the best way is to install the filler assembly in the tank first. This leaves a small gap around the top of the neck, which you can just about squeeze the seal under. The last bit's the hardest & fiary liquid helps - a bit like fitting a bicycle tyre on a rim. It's also worth leaving the neck grub screws loose, until you offer up the cap. That way you can still twist neck in the tank slightly to align filler cap with top of tank.
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GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong! |
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