Single Sided - Wheel Nut

01-05-2007, 10:26 PM

Hello, has anyone had trouble with the removal of their wheel nut on the single sided bikes. They seem to be extremely tight, any techniques/methods would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Andrew (South Wales)

Dave G · 02-05-2007, 06:52 AM

Put it in gear,and get someone to step on the back brake while you try and undo it..
If you havent got a breaker bar you might need to put a length of pipe over your spanner to give you a bit extra leverage. I had to stand on mine to loosen it.
They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory).

NattyBoy · 02-05-2007, 07:05 AM

they dont really need to be too tight when you put it back on...

Nat

02-05-2007, 08:43 AM

Quote:

They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory).

Spot on Dave - what a memory you have!

02-05-2007, 08:45 AM

Hmm might get my brother in law to loosen mine with power tools when I need to take mine off.

02-05-2007, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AGIBBS

Hello, has anyone had trouble with the removal of their wheel nut on the single sided bikes. They seem to be extremely tight, any techniques/methods would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Andrew (South Wales)

A good quality socket and a scaffold pole!

02-05-2007, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave G

They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory).

I was told not to do em up that tight as it over tightens them, the wire do da clip thingy stops it coming undone so tight is good enough not shocking tight which is what 176Nm is!!!!!

Rear brake rather than in gear is better i think as the strain on engine could damage the gears!!

02-05-2007, 12:10 PM

[QUOTE=I the wire do da clip thingy stops it coming undone so tight is good enough not shocking tight which is what 176Nm is!!!!![/QUOTE]

Is that a technical term then? 176 seems very tight compared to what m,y old bike was but then maybe it's different with a single sided swingarm, guess I'll find out when I have to do whatever it is you loosen it for!!!!!

Dave G · 02-05-2007, 02:28 PM

Just checked the book and it does say 176Nm's thats for the 46mm rear wheel nut.
The value is for the 748- 916/996 range but the hubs are the same.
Both haynes and here:-
http://www.ducati.com/bikes/tech.jht...2SFEYKFUIHUIV3
Thats what I set my S2R to when I refitted the wheel and I haven't had any issues . I did see a value of 155Nm's somewhere but cant remember what for,it could be for a specific bike or wheel.

The original post was for the wheel removal though,I'll stick with my method of putting it into gear and holding in the rear brake,I then attach my socket and breaker bar and put my foot on the end,slowly I'll put more weight onto the bar,it usually gives before I have to get too unbalanced.

crust · 02-05-2007, 09:10 PM

Copied from the excellent Shazaam on the DSC site:

Its for the 916 series bikes but the theory still applies

Rear Wheel Installation

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Minimum torque is 165Nm.

A Ducati tech bulletin and their web site specifies 176Nm ± 5% (9Nm) torque requirement for the rear wheel retaining nut (normal thread direction). This converts to 130 ± 6 lb-ft. This value is based on using grease on the threads (this is not optional.) The manual calls for Shell Retinax HDX2, an automotive grease.

In general, a thread treated with either an anti-seize or a lubricant requires a lower torque value (than a higher-friction dry thread) to create the same tension in the fastener. So, if you have changed to a titanium nut, such that anti-seize is now needed to prevent galvanic corrosion, you’ll need to torque the fastener to a approximately 10% lower value to avoid over-tensioning the fastener. A new torque wrench is probably accurate to ± 3%.

When reinstalling, first make sure that the wheel is seated properly. Mount the wheel and tighten the nut to about 50 lb-ft. Then rotate the wheel and pound the side of the tire with the heel of your hand in several places around the circumference to seat it. Then tighten to about 80 lb-ft and repeat, applying the rear brake lever to keep the wheel from turning. Finally, tighten the nut to 124 lb-ft and check the retaining pin hole alignment. Torque again as high as 137 lb-ft to line-up the holes and insert the retaining pin.

If the nut is under-torqued it will allow the nut to loosen, allowing the wheel to rotate in its mount and be damaged by repeated acceleration/braking impact loads that will ovalize the four locating pins holes on the backside of the wheel. Damage to the axle spindle can also occur. Also, a loose nut will back-off till it's stopped by the retaining pin, then bend the pin and deform the nut. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.

DURING INSTALLATION, YOU SHOULD NEVER LOOSEN THE NUT TO INSERT THE PIN. The range of correct torque values for the nut is 124-136 lb-ft so the correct procedure is to torque to the lower value, check for hole alignment and torque up to the higher value if necessary to align the holes.

Note that if you are installing aftermarket wheels, a small variation in wheel/paint thickness may make it more difficult to apply both the correct torque and also get the correct hole alignment.

Here's the important part. Ride the bike and recheck the nut's tightness. It's not uncommon to see it loosening up just a hair after the initial tightening. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.

Crust

Stafford · 12-05-2009, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave G

Just checked the book and it does say 176Nm's thats for the 46mm rear wheel nut.

Anyone
What size is the nut on the other side 41mm or 42mm?

12-05-2009, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stafford

Anyone
What size is the nut on the other side 41mm or 42mm?

Its 41mm on the 748/916 so would assume its the same for the single sided monsters...............

Shandy

bigredduke · 12-05-2009, 12:50 PM

I had a real problem undoing the sprocket-side nut. Even a mate with large metal pole over 5 feet long just lifted the bike! I bought an impact air gun (from Aldi for £15) to use with my compressor (also from Aldi) and it worked brilliantly. Definitely the best option imo, but only to undo!.

Stafford, I will check the socket size when I get home today.

12-05-2009, 01:54 PM

Same as BRD, I bought a compressor from Aldi and an air impact wrench. It's the only way I could get it undone. I've also been advised that it doesn't need to be so tight when doing it back up. I put it back on with the air wrench and then gave it a squeeze using a breaker bar.

bigredduke · 12-05-2009, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stafford

Anyone
What size is the nut on the other side 41mm or 42mm?

Yes, it's a 41mm

01-05-2007, 10:26 PM	#1
AGIBBS Guest Posts: n/a	Single Sided - Wheel Nut Hello, has anyone had trouble with the removal of their wheel nut on the single sided bikes. They seem to be extremely tight, any techniques/methods would be appreciated. Thanks, Andrew (South Wales)

02-05-2007, 06:52 AM	#2
Dave G Imagineer Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: West Kilbride Bike: S2r Posts: 999	Put it in gear,and get someone to step on the back brake while you try and undo it.. If you havent got a breaker bar you might need to put a length of pipe over your spanner to give you a bit extra leverage. I had to stand on mine to loosen it. They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory). __________________ "One machine can do the work of fifty ordinary men. No machine can do the work of one extraordinary man" -Elbert Hubbard

02-05-2007, 02:28 PM	#9
Dave G Imagineer Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: West Kilbride Bike: S2r Posts: 999	Just checked the book and it does say 176Nm's thats for the 46mm rear wheel nut. The value is for the 748- 916/996 range but the hubs are the same. Both haynes and here:- http://www.ducati.com/bikes/tech.jht...2SFEYKFUIHUIV3 Thats what I set my S2R to when I refitted the wheel and I haven't had any issues . I did see a value of 155Nm's somewhere but cant remember what for,it could be for a specific bike or wheel. The original post was for the wheel removal though,I'll stick with my method of putting it into gear and holding in the rear brake,I then attach my socket and breaker bar and put my foot on the end,slowly I'll put more weight onto the bar,it usually gives before I have to get too unbalanced. __________________ "One machine can do the work of fifty ordinary men. No machine can do the work of one extraordinary man" -Elbert Hubbard

02-05-2007, 07:05 AM	#3
NattyBoy Monsterless again for now Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Wiltshire Bike: M900 Posts: 3,189	they dont really need to be too tight when you put it back on... Nat

02-05-2007, 08:45 AM	#5
sadbiker Guest Posts: n/a	Hmm might get my brother in law to loosen mine with power tools when I need to take mine off.

02-05-2007, 12:10 PM	#8
scrumpster Guest Posts: n/a	[QUOTE=I the wire do da clip thingy stops it coming undone so tight is good enough not shocking tight which is what 176Nm is!!!!![/QUOTE] Is that a technical term then? 176 seems very tight compared to what m,y old bike was but then maybe it's different with a single sided swingarm, guess I'll find out when I have to do whatever it is you loosen it for!!!!!

02-05-2007, 09:10 PM	#10
crust rattles when he walks Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: in the comfy chair,moved furniture around Bike: M900 Posts: 1,065	Copied from the excellent Shazaam on the DSC site: Its for the 916 series bikes but the theory still applies Rear Wheel Installation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Minimum torque is 165Nm. A Ducati tech bulletin and their web site specifies 176Nm ± 5% (9Nm) torque requirement for the rear wheel retaining nut (normal thread direction). This converts to 130 ± 6 lb-ft. This value is based on using grease on the threads (this is not optional.) The manual calls for Shell Retinax HDX2, an automotive grease. In general, a thread treated with either an anti-seize or a lubricant requires a lower torque value (than a higher-friction dry thread) to create the same tension in the fastener. So, if you have changed to a titanium nut, such that anti-seize is now needed to prevent galvanic corrosion, you’ll need to torque the fastener to a approximately 10% lower value to avoid over-tensioning the fastener. A new torque wrench is probably accurate to ± 3%. When reinstalling, first make sure that the wheel is seated properly. Mount the wheel and tighten the nut to about 50 lb-ft. Then rotate the wheel and pound the side of the tire with the heel of your hand in several places around the circumference to seat it. Then tighten to about 80 lb-ft and repeat, applying the rear brake lever to keep the wheel from turning. Finally, tighten the nut to 124 lb-ft and check the retaining pin hole alignment. Torque again as high as 137 lb-ft to line-up the holes and insert the retaining pin. If the nut is under-torqued it will allow the nut to loosen, allowing the wheel to rotate in its mount and be damaged by repeated acceleration/braking impact loads that will ovalize the four locating pins holes on the backside of the wheel. Damage to the axle spindle can also occur. Also, a loose nut will back-off till it's stopped by the retaining pin, then bend the pin and deform the nut. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride. DURING INSTALLATION, YOU SHOULD NEVER LOOSEN THE NUT TO INSERT THE PIN. The range of correct torque values for the nut is 124-136 lb-ft so the correct procedure is to torque to the lower value, check for hole alignment and torque up to the higher value if necessary to align the holes. Note that if you are installing aftermarket wheels, a small variation in wheel/paint thickness may make it more difficult to apply both the correct torque and also get the correct hole alignment. Here's the important part. Ride the bike and recheck the nut's tightness. It's not uncommon to see it loosening up just a hair after the initial tightening. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride. Crust

12-05-2009, 12:50 PM	#13
bigredduke Nothing to see here Join Date: May 2005 Location: brough Bike: M1100evo Posts: 1,546	I had a real problem undoing the sprocket-side nut. Even a mate with large metal pole over 5 feet long just lifted the bike! I bought an impact air gun (from Aldi for £15) to use with my compressor (also from Aldi) and it worked brilliantly. Definitely the best option imo, but only to undo!. Stafford, I will check the socket size when I get home today.

12-05-2009, 01:54 PM	#14
Gilps Guest Posts: n/a	Same as BRD, I bought a compressor from Aldi and an air impact wrench. It's the only way I could get it undone. I've also been advised that it doesn't need to be so tight when doing it back up. I put it back on with the air wrench and then gave it a squeeze using a breaker bar.