1100s front forks

vince53 · 12-08-2019, 06:18 PM

Hello , Has anyone out there softened up the front suspension on there 1100s , rebound speed is fine and dive just a tad to hard back sags slightly quicker and getting just a tad to bumpy on the front I think its the bolts on the top of forks which have H and S with > arrows , but is there a method to this or just turn ether way to soften or harden ? I guess the screws in the middle are for rebound etc , ? they are Ohlin's .. many thanks vince .

* )

slob · 12-08-2019, 06:34 PM

download owners manual from ducati.com

but basically preload is the outer big nut on top
depending on model... (the small inner screws) rebound on one leg and compression on the other
or more usually
rebound on top and compression in the bottoms

Luddite · 12-08-2019, 07:25 PM

On the 1100S with the Öhlins forks, the rebound adjusters are the H-S screws on the fork tops while the compression adjusters are on the sides of the fork bottoms, just above the wheel spindle.

For what it's worth, the factory settings are:
Compression - 8 clicks out from fully closed
Rebound - 12 clicks out from fully closed
Preload - 3 turns in from fully open

And the stock spring weight is 7.5N/mm

Ron1000 · 12-08-2019, 08:17 PM

I’ve setup my last two bikes myself.

Best thing I could say is take a note of every setting you try and do it in small increments.

My street triple was an entire season to get it right (how I like it) the evo is only just recently setup (as close to best as I can get). that took four seasons and 17k miles.

Mind in your notes allow for tyre pressures and rider weight.

Worst case scenario just reset everything back to factory and review your notes or start again.

Flip · 12-08-2019, 09:20 PM

Firstly as Luddite has helpfully listed I would check everything (front and rear) is set to standard before you go fiddling- it's not unknown for bikes to be delivered with settings that differ from those suggested by the factory let alone what a previous owner (if there was one?) has twiddled with.

Next would be to set the 'Sag' which you will need a friend(s), some masking tape, cable ties a tape measure and pen and paper.

Unfortunately, the chances are with this measurement that it will likely be a compromise as the only way to get this right (unless you are very lucky) with you sat on the bike will be by changing the spring weights.

Getting the above somewhere close will require you to adjust the pre-load settings but doing so alone will not compensate for not having the correct spring based on your weight hence my comment on it being a compromise if you do not get this spot on.

However, they will form the basis of any further adjustments and without these being right first, nothing else will be really.

Here's a good explanation of how and why:

https://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm

That's the tough bit done- now it is the 'ride it and twiddle test' until you get the kind of 'feel' you are looking for.

My advice would be a circular route that you know well but not too long (say five or six miles tops) that has a combination of road surfaces, bumps, fast and slow corners and basically ride how you do normally- do a loop, come home and make notes of how it felt with all the settings (except the already adjusted sag settings) on standard.

Now you can start softening things if it felt too hard or stiffening it up if it was on the soft side- there's not really a wrong or right here, just what feels best to you.

Obviously, there will always be more that can be improved with spring and oil weights, shimming and ride height/geometry etc. but it really depends on how far you want to go and how deep your pockets are along with how much time you want to spend riding Vs fiddling.

Once the sag is set, depending on how much you can notice with each adjustment (I doubt many 'normal' riders on the road would notice a difference of a couple of clicks at a time) I would say get out while it's all fresh in you mind and get it set in a day max.

I would also say that properly set up suspension is one of the most underrated and last thought about 'mods' but (in my opinion) is one that makes every ride so much enjoyable no matter whether you're pootling about town or going nuts down a country lane because you can 'feel' the difference it makes.

Have fun

vince53 · 12-08-2019, 11:39 PM

thanks guys I think compression is ok as is rebound , but the sag is a tad to hard on front , it seems to dive ok not to fast and rebound the same , so thinking first port of call to take some preload off , if that doesn't feel better then maybe very little steps with compression ,but like I said id say at the moment that seems ok ?? so iv got the adjusters in the bottom just above spindles and also in the middle of the top nuts so the nuts must be the preload ? so are these the ones I wind all the way out then 3 turns in for factory ? they just stop when winding out to fully open ? thanks again ..

Luddite · 13-08-2019, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vince53

so are these the ones I wind all the way out then 3 turns in for factory ? they just stop when winding out to fully open ? thanks again ..

That's it! (I think they're anodised blue on the 1100S?)

slob · 13-08-2019, 08:21 AM

almost always blue on Ohlins forks

BigOz · 13-08-2019, 08:44 AM

Should you end up winding out all the preload during your changes don't leave the adjusters hard against the stop, wind it back in a fraction of a turn, the adjusters can get damaged and stuck over time if jammed hard at the end of adjustment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vince53

t the sag is a tad to hard on front , it seems to dive ok not to fast and rebound the same , so thinking first port of call to take some preload off , if that doesn't feel better then maybe very little steps with compression

Do you have a fork travel indicator fitted, a simple cable tie or a proper one, if not take a look at the dirt (if any) and marks on your forks left by the travel of the seals cleaning the tube. You want to be using at least 3/4 of the travel, if not the forks are too hard or the compression valving is too closed. If you are using more the question is how close to mechanical bottom are you and how much fork travel do you want to reserve for the unexpected.
With Ohlins mechanical bottom is normally about 5mm up from the bottom casting but can be accurately found by measuring the exposed tube at full extension and checking the full travel in the manual.

BigOz · 13-08-2019, 09:01 AM

A quick example with a cable tie on my 1200.

Ron1000 · 13-08-2019, 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigOz

A quick example with a cable tie on my 1200.

Good idea that, I do the same.

Nice travel on that suspension too

Mossleymonster · 13-08-2019, 12:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

On the 1100S with the Öhlins forks, the rebound adjusters are the H-S screws on the fork tops while the compression adjusters are on the sides of the fork bottoms, just above the wheel spindle.

For what it's worth, the factory settings are:
Compression - 8 clicks out from fully closed
Rebound - 12 clicks out from fully closed
Preload - 3 turns in from fully open

And the stock spring weight is 7.5N/mm

I was told by Ohlins that the screws on the top of the fork are the compression adjusters, and the ones at the bottom are rebound.

I weigh 75 kilos without kit and have my preload at 3 turns in from fully out, compression at 4 clicks in, and rebound at 3.
Although Mine have been re shimmed at Maxtons and heavier springs @8.5

If it were me, I'd start by softening the pre load.

BigOz · 13-08-2019, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mossleymonster

I was told by Ohlins that the screws on the top of the fork are the compression adjusters, and the ones at the bottom are rebound.

I weigh 75 kilos without kit and have my preload at 3 turns in from fully out, compression at 4 clicks in, and rebound at 3.
Although Mine have been re shimmed at Maxtons and heavier springs @8.5

If it were me, I'd start by softening the pre load.

Rebound at the top and compression on the fork bottom was the usual arrangement as mentioned by others above, the rebound needle being essentially in the piston assembly and compression needle allowing oil out the bottom of the cartridge as the piston comes down.

Things changed with BPF and SFF forks and the like, some bikes Panigale 959s for example rebound and compression are in the top of the fork and preload is on the bottom casting.

Newer Ohlins have rebound in the right leg and compression in the left and nothing at the bottom.

If in doubt please check your manual.

slob · 13-08-2019, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigOz

Rebound at the top and compression on the fork bottom...

...check your manual.

vince53 · 13-08-2019, 06:03 PM

Many many thanks guys , that's great iv got jist of it , just helps a lot to see others who have done it , or have a good idea on how it's done ,good conformation brings peace of mind , so thanks again will start setting it up as soon as we get some dry roads again lol * )

12-08-2019, 06:18 PM	#1
vince53 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: taunton Bike: M1100s Posts: 41	1100s front forks Hello , Has anyone out there softened up the front suspension on there 1100s , rebound speed is fine and dive just a tad to hard back sags slightly quicker and getting just a tad to bumpy on the front I think its the bolts on the top of forks which have H and S with > arrows , but is there a method to this or just turn ether way to soften or harden ? I guess the screws in the middle are for rebound etc , ? they are Ohlin's .. many thanks vince . * )

12-08-2019, 09:20 PM	#5
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	Firstly as Luddite has helpfully listed I would check everything (front and rear) is set to standard before you go fiddling- it's not unknown for bikes to be delivered with settings that differ from those suggested by the factory let alone what a previous owner (if there was one?) has twiddled with. Next would be to set the 'Sag' which you will need a friend(s), some masking tape, cable ties a tape measure and pen and paper. Unfortunately, the chances are with this measurement that it will likely be a compromise as the only way to get this right (unless you are very lucky) with you sat on the bike will be by changing the spring weights. Getting the above somewhere close will require you to adjust the pre-load settings but doing so alone will not compensate for not having the correct spring based on your weight hence my comment on it being a compromise if you do not get this spot on. However, they will form the basis of any further adjustments and without these being right first, nothing else will be really. Here's a good explanation of how and why: https://racetech.com/articles/SuspensionAndSprings.htm That's the tough bit done- now it is the 'ride it and twiddle test' until you get the kind of 'feel' you are looking for. My advice would be a circular route that you know well but not too long (say five or six miles tops) that has a combination of road surfaces, bumps, fast and slow corners and basically ride how you do normally- do a loop, come home and make notes of how it felt with all the settings (except the already adjusted sag settings) on standard. Now you can start softening things if it felt too hard or stiffening it up if it was on the soft side- there's not really a wrong or right here, just what feels best to you. Obviously, there will always be more that can be improved with spring and oil weights, shimming and ride height/geometry etc. but it really depends on how far you want to go and how deep your pockets are along with how much time you want to spend riding Vs fiddling. Once the sag is set, depending on how much you can notice with each adjustment (I doubt many 'normal' riders on the road would notice a difference of a couple of clicks at a time) I would say get out while it's all fresh in you mind and get it set in a day max. I would also say that properly set up suspension is one of the most underrated and last thought about 'mods' but (in my opinion) is one that makes every ride so much enjoyable no matter whether you're pootling about town or going nuts down a country lane because you can 'feel' the difference it makes. Have fun __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 12-08-2019 at 09:29 PM..

13-08-2019, 09:01 AM	#10
BigOz Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Chatham Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 714	A quick example with a cable tie on my 1200. __________________ Sideways is the new forward!

12-08-2019, 06:34 PM	#2
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,707	download owners manual from ducati.com but basically preload is the outer big nut on top depending on model... (the small inner screws) rebound on one leg and compression on the other or more usually rebound on top and compression in the bottoms

12-08-2019, 07:25 PM	#3
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	On the 1100S with the Öhlins forks, the rebound adjusters are the H-S screws on the fork tops while the compression adjusters are on the sides of the fork bottoms, just above the wheel spindle. For what it's worth, the factory settings are: Compression - 8 clicks out from fully closed Rebound - 12 clicks out from fully closed Preload - 3 turns in from fully open And the stock spring weight is 7.5N/mm

12-08-2019, 08:17 PM	#4
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 863	I’ve setup my last two bikes myself. Best thing I could say is take a note of every setting you try and do it in small increments. My street triple was an entire season to get it right (how I like it) the evo is only just recently setup (as close to best as I can get). that took four seasons and 17k miles. Mind in your notes allow for tyre pressures and rider weight. Worst case scenario just reset everything back to factory and review your notes or start again.

12-08-2019, 11:39 PM	#6
vince53 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: taunton Bike: M1100s Posts: 41	thanks guys I think compression is ok as is rebound , but the sag is a tad to hard on front , it seems to dive ok not to fast and rebound the same , so thinking first port of call to take some preload off , if that doesn't feel better then maybe very little steps with compression ,but like I said id say at the moment that seems ok ?? so iv got the adjusters in the bottom just above spindles and also in the middle of the top nuts so the nuts must be the preload ? so are these the ones I wind all the way out then 3 turns in for factory ? they just stop when winding out to fully open ? thanks again ..

13-08-2019, 08:21 AM	#8
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,707	almost always blue on Ohlins forks

13-08-2019, 06:03 PM	#15
vince53 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: taunton Bike: M1100s Posts: 41	Many many thanks guys , that's great iv got jist of it , just helps a lot to see others who have done it , or have a good idea on how it's done ,good conformation brings peace of mind , so thanks again will start setting it up as soon as we get some dry roads again lol * )