My Re-Tarted M600

12-04-2009, 05:46 PM

Just spent the week doing up my tatty M600 and thought I'd share the results.

My method was to take off footrests, mounting plates etc. Paint stripper on everything including casings, which were still attached to the engine.

Used P800 to prep up the metal and a Dremel with steel wire brushes to clean back the nooks and crannies.

Painted using Hammerite, in conjunction with self etching primer, for the bits that don't get hot, and Sperex for the casings and cylinder head, 4 coats in all,rubbed down between coats with P1200. Sealed stuff off with laquer.

Pedro · 12-04-2009, 06:14 PM

Very nice, good job!

BTW, I've moved the thread to UKMOC Bikes section !

Ped

12-04-2009, 06:18 PM

Thanks for info

Yorkie · 12-04-2009, 07:33 PM

Very tidy bike! Now come round to mine and paint my engine!

Yorkie.

Capo · 12-04-2009, 07:49 PM

To get that quality without removing the engine is amazing. Well done sir.

gary tompkins · 12-04-2009, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yorkie

Very tidy bike! Now come round to mine and paint my engine!

Yorkie.

Ditto - that looks mint

12-04-2009, 08:36 PM

Hugger has come up well in red, well done!

G.

.

12-04-2009, 08:57 PM

Very nice work.

12-04-2009, 09:05 PM

I had a request for more details of what I did, so here goes, hope this helps someone...

I only used Hammerite on the bits that stay cold. Used Sperex Engine Enamel for the casings.

You need to take off the footrest mountings to get a clear run at things. Undo all the cable ties so that you can clear cables.

Get some nitromorse paint stripper and apply gently, leave it for 20 minutes and wipe off with a cloth then apply another coat and so on until you have all the nasty paint off. Then gently wipe with a wet cloth to clean away the stripper. I then used a Dremel with a wire brush and basically poished all of the black aluminum rust off. Don't work about the sand impression in the casings, thats from when they were cast, you'll find the paint will cover that easily.

Most important, you need to get some clutch and brake cleaner, I used six cans, it's a really good degreaser amd will make sure your metal bits are free of much and grease before painting. Spray it anywhere it's really safe and then wipe away with a clean cloth. You'll see that Spearex specifically say do not use any primer so I didn't use it where I applied it. I did use self etching primer on all areas that had Hammerite applied.

Rub everything down with P800 wet and Dry before applying paint, and rub gently down between coats with P1200. Give each coat a good while to dry, Hammerite needed 2 hours (even though it says 1hour on can).

Mask up gently and stuff all gaps with newspaper then cover the bike in newspaper as overspray will go all over the place. Get a good mask before applying the paint, I got a suitable one from Wikes.

Self Etching Primer can be obtained from Frosts Restoration you'll find them on line. This cuts into the alloy so that it will bond rather than sit on top. Apparently alloy begins to break down and leaves a residue almost imediatley it is exposed to air, which means that there would be a barrier between your paint and the alloy. However as mentioned above this is not needed for the Sperex Engine Enamel..

Take your time, be patient and when I started the bike up for the first I only ran it for a couple if minutes just to get some warmth in the engine, did this a couple of times so that it slowly baked the paint on rather than burning it off.

Paranoid Dave · 13-04-2009, 07:35 AM

Great job on the bike and an even better job on the write up, really useful info for people looking to do similar jobs and with pics of results like that, there will be a few among us now ready to give it a go.

PS, did you paint the pipes black or were they done previously.

13-04-2009, 08:37 AM

agreed, gr8 results and gr8 write up, cheers

13-04-2009, 10:35 PM

I've been gearing up to drop the engine on mine and give it a proper paint job as it's starting to be borderline tatty. Having seen your work I'm in two minds now though! That looks excellent, great work there.

14-04-2009, 10:04 PM

looks nice well done nice job

NattyBoy · 14-04-2009, 10:28 PM

Top notch mate..thanks fo sharing the details which will no doubt inspire a few people to roll their sleeves up !

Pedro · 14-04-2009, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NattyBoy

Top notch mate..thanks fo sharing the details which will no doubt inspire a few people to roll their sleeves up !

Well lets all hope that doesn't include you because I'm sure you'd meet your usual high standards and use a roller to paint it - stippled engine cases anyone!!!!

12-04-2009, 05:46 PM	#1
billbell Guest Posts: n/a	My Re-Tarted M600 Just spent the week doing up my tatty M600 and thought I'd share the results. My method was to take off footrests, mounting plates etc. Paint stripper on everything including casings, which were still attached to the engine. Used P800 to prep up the metal and a Dremel with steel wire brushes to clean back the nooks and crannies. Painted using Hammerite, in conjunction with self etching primer, for the bits that don't get hot, and Sperex for the casings and cylinder head, 4 coats in all,rubbed down between coats with P1200. Sealed stuff off with laquer.

12-04-2009, 06:14 PM	#2
Pedro Ciao, come stai? Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Somewhere Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 4,157	Very nice, good job! BTW, I've moved the thread to UKMOC Bikes section ! Ped __________________ M900 - 1993! Monster 1200R!

12-04-2009, 08:36 PM	#7
BluprintZ Guest Posts: n/a	Hugger has come up well in red, well done! G..

12-04-2009, 09:05 PM	#9
billbell Guest Posts: n/a	Few more details I had a request for more details of what I did, so here goes, hope this helps someone... I only used Hammerite on the bits that stay cold. Used Sperex Engine Enamel for the casings. You need to take off the footrest mountings to get a clear run at things. Undo all the cable ties so that you can clear cables. Get some nitromorse paint stripper and apply gently, leave it for 20 minutes and wipe off with a cloth then apply another coat and so on until you have all the nasty paint off. Then gently wipe with a wet cloth to clean away the stripper. I then used a Dremel with a wire brush and basically poished all of the black aluminum rust off. Don't work about the sand impression in the casings, thats from when they were cast, you'll find the paint will cover that easily. Most important, you need to get some clutch and brake cleaner, I used six cans, it's a really good degreaser amd will make sure your metal bits are free of much and grease before painting. Spray it anywhere it's really safe and then wipe away with a clean cloth. You'll see that Spearex specifically say do not use any primer so I didn't use it where I applied it. I did use self etching primer on all areas that had Hammerite applied. Rub everything down with P800 wet and Dry before applying paint, and rub gently down between coats with P1200. Give each coat a good while to dry, Hammerite needed 2 hours (even though it says 1hour on can). Mask up gently and stuff all gaps with newspaper then cover the bike in newspaper as overspray will go all over the place. Get a good mask before applying the paint, I got a suitable one from Wikes. Self Etching Primer can be obtained from Frosts Restoration you'll find them on line. This cuts into the alloy so that it will bond rather than sit on top. Apparently alloy begins to break down and leaves a residue almost imediatley it is exposed to air, which means that there would be a barrier between your paint and the alloy. However as mentioned above this is not needed for the Sperex Engine Enamel.. Take your time, be patient and when I started the bike up for the first I only ran it for a couple if minutes just to get some warmth in the engine, did this a couple of times so that it slowly baked the paint on rather than burning it off.

13-04-2009, 07:35 AM	#10
Paranoid Dave Is it meant to do that? Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Innit Bike: Other Ducati Posts: 2,198	Great job on the bike and an even better job on the write up, really useful info for people looking to do similar jobs and with pics of results like that, there will be a few among us now ready to give it a go. PS, did you paint the pipes black or were they done previously. __________________ Goodbye Audrey Hello Eric

12-04-2009, 06:18 PM	#3
billbell Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks for info

12-04-2009, 07:33 PM	#4
Yorkie Anglo-Saxon Warrior Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: North Yorkshire Bike: M900 Posts: 2,485	Very tidy bike! Now come round to mine and paint my engine! Yorkie.

12-04-2009, 07:49 PM	#5
Capo You Are What You Is Join Date: May 2005 Location: A Foward Location Bike: S4r Posts: 1,948	To get that quality without removing the engine is amazing. Well done sir.

12-04-2009, 08:57 PM	#8
Snips Guest Posts: n/a	Very nice work.

13-04-2009, 08:37 AM	#11
littlejimmy12 Guest Posts: n/a	agreed, gr8 results and gr8 write up, cheers

13-04-2009, 10:35 PM	#12
Catspoon Guest Posts: n/a	I've been gearing up to drop the engine on mine and give it a proper paint job as it's starting to be borderline tatty. Having seen your work I'm in two minds now though! That looks excellent, great work there.

14-04-2009, 10:04 PM	#13
paul33 Guest Posts: n/a	looks nice well done nice job

14-04-2009, 10:28 PM	#14
NattyBoy Monsterless again for now Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Wiltshire Bike: M900 Posts: 3,189	Top notch mate..thanks fo sharing the details which will no doubt inspire a few people to roll their sleeves up !