Raising the Bar... the Handlebar

[gary tompkins]

I think you mentioned your risers are cast into top yoke...?

Pity.. as another way of jacking your bars would be to get a spare set of standard lower risers and cut them down. You could have then fitted them under your own risers (as spacers) with longer bolts to give the required amount of lift.

I have some spare risers since swapping to clip-ons, but sounds like it's not going to be much use to you? Early risers off 600/750's may be even better as I don't think they are as waisted in the middle (between bolt holes) and more of a solid block?

[gary tompkins]

Originally Posted by MilesB

Thats what I thought - almost every other item is 'Buy it now', but the Monster Risers - and there is a range of risers, NOT one item. How can I bid on a range? The other bidder may not want the specific part that I do.

I think you have to specify which model monster you want the risers for at the end of the auction, although they should be the same TBH. You could always fire a question off to the seller... how is your German?

Originally Posted by MilesB

Thing is, whatever I do, to get the height I'm going to have to rotate the brake & clutch hose banjos - which will let air into the system... so I'm going to have to bleed the brakes whatever.

Didn't need to bleed mine when I fitted the clip-ons, but I did take care to only crack the banjo bolts so I could tweak them the few degrees I needed. Did make the job a bit more awkward - but then...

A/ I was out of brake fluid

B/ all the local auto spare shops were shut

C/ I hate bleeding brakes

Miles,
I've got an account with Aeroquip so I can do your hoses cheap - and they'll fit

Simon

Hi,
I'm new here and after some advice!
I want to fit the Renthal Low(not ultra low)bars to my 2006 MONSTER 620. If I cut 10/15 mm off the ends as you did, is it just the fast idle cable that I will need to lengthen? If so, do you know where I would I get a universal cable kit for this?
Thanks,
Deryl

[/B]

Originally Posted by JMo

I think you'll find that if you want a significant difference in height/layback, then you will need to change the brake/clutch hoses and the throttle and fast idle cables too - I fitted Renthal Low bars (not the ultra low like Slob) to Sazza's ie bike and the cables really were a bit of a stretch - infact we ended up getting a new fast idle cable as the rerouting was ugly. We also cut 10mm off each end of the bar as there was no way the hydraulic hoses would stretch enough to have the grips right at the end.

You can lengthen the throttle and fast idles cables easily with a universal throttle cable kit (about £8 each) and solder on the correct nipples, while new hoses from Goodrich aren't the end of the world, although you'll be looking at the thick end of £20 each (and you'll need 3 of course)...

I think realistically you are looking at around £100 for the whole lot (including the bars).

xxx

I fitted lows to my m600. Didn't need to lengthen anything......

Originally Posted by deryl

Hi,
I'm new here and after some advice!
I want to fit the Renthal Low(not ultra low)bars to my 2006 MONSTER 620. If I cut 10/15 mm off the ends as you did, is it just the fast idle cable that I will need to lengthen? If so, do you know where I would I get a universal cable kit for this?
Thanks,
Deryl

[/B]

Flippin' eck - someone has been using the search facility, this thread is nearly five years old!!!

Hi Deryl - as I recall, yes if fitting the Low bars to a 620, then all you should have to do is lengthen the fast idle cable (as it will tug on full left lock otherwise), or at least re-route it behind the bars, which might look a bit ugly.

The best thing to do is get the bars and loose-fit all the controls, and see how much play you've got, but as I said way back when - I think you'll have to trim the ends of the bars abut half an inch each side for the brake hoses and throttle cables to run without tugging...

Have fun!

Jx

PS. the throttle housing and the switchgear have 'pins' that locate in holes in the OEM bars - you can either drill the new bars to accept these (tricky unless you are sure of the position you want) or else cut/grind the pins off, and wrap a layer of insulation tape around the bars where the switchgear clamps to make everything nip up nice and snug. Superglue also works, once you're happy with the position x

[utopia]

Perhaps you could compensate for loss of hose length if the bars are raised, by making them a little narrower ?
JMo's suggestion of trials style renthals may have extra room to cut down, since the bar-clamp area is shorter, hence the outer section would be longer, compared to road bars..??

I can confirm that renthal ultra-low bars are very close to the std bars, so the 'low' ones would be.....higher.

[Martin C]

If you apply moderate pressure to the lever whilst loosening the banjo JUST enough to turn it, you can avoid any air entering the hydraulic system (I've done this on 3 Ducatis). Put a cloth around the banjo to catch any small amount of fluid that oozes out, then bin it.