Rough running low down and high idle when warm

[utopia]

Originally Posted by FrankenDesmo

..... I'm guessing that water will tend to float on top and therefore stay there?

No, water is more dense than petrol and will sink to the bottom.
Thus it will settle in the base of the tank and since the outlet to the pump is at a low level, it would be easily drawn into the carbs.

[FrankenDesmo]

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

Don't ask me what a projected insulator is! Probably like overhead mudguards or underslung overdrive? (Chain.)

Alright you got me... what's an overhead mudguard?

Regarding your asymmetric mixtures, I wonder if one of the diaphragms is split and not lifting the needle valve/jet properly?

Got the carbs off just now, so I checked that first - nope, they appear to be in fine condition (although now I'm stumped as to how to get them seated and the caps back on without pinching them ).

Originally Posted by utopia

No, water is more dense than petrol and will sink to the bottom.
Thus it will settle in the base of the tank and since the outlet to the pump is at a low level, it would be easily drawn into the carbs.

Duh, right, yeah, wrong way around... I drained one of the floats into a glass to see if anything separate out - nothing, but that does make sense given I ran it dry before putting fresh fuel in. Maybe the storage was dry enough in Cumbernauld that it didn't absorb too much (the tank was also over half full the whole time it was stored).

---

Aye so carbs are off (those throttle cables are bloody fiddly - I'm not looking forward to putting them back on!). Before disassembling I thought I'd see if it's possible to get the oil cooler out of the way by removing the heater in/out lines, unfortunately I can barely get at the bolts with a spanner and even then there is barely enough movement to turn them and wanting to press on I gave up on that. I think for future tuning it'll have to be with the airbox off... except that also means battery & coils off, too - how the hell is it even possible!?

I've already managed to chew out one of the infamously soft float bowl screws, not surprised as they're the JIS screws I believe, and I only have a PH1 & PH3 (PH2 might have had a better shot, but the PH1 was fairly snug). Anyway off to B&Q tomorrow to get a small hacksaw and cut a slot into them - then they're getting replaced with allen heads.

So I should be able to get them stripped by Saturday, which is good because I'm away Sunday for the week. If I discover anything obviously stuffed (such as emulsion tubes), I can put the order in for while I'm away. Not quite going to get the bodies off for ultrasonic cleaning though, but hopefully I can find someone local to do it when I'm back.

Took the opportunity to remove the tank and properly drain it, as I'd previously drained it in situ, which didn't get everything. That also opens up access to the valves on the top cylinder, so I'll also be picking up some feeler gauges to check the clearances as suggested.

[Luddite]

You might find these 'how to' videos useful when you come to reassemble your carbs:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...554#post573554

I came across them by chance the other day...

[FrankenDesmo]

Nice one Luddite

[Mr Gazza]

[QUOTE=FrankenDesmo;573551]Alright you got me... what's an overhead mudguard?/QUOTE]

Sorry mate I though everyone knew that? Mudguards usually go "overhead" the wheels, but it was often claimed as a feature by owners of lowly basic models when trying to impress owners of smart models with things like overhead camshafts.

Next you'll be telling me you don't know what a Rolls Canardly is..