UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Electrics » S4R Won't Start - Getting me Down - Part 2

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Old 06-06-2019, 08:09 AM   #31
Dilkris
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Luddite - many thanks for the explanation on how to reduce file sizes - I've come across this problem a few times so this is a big plus for me. I'll give it a go this evening. Also, I think maybe getting the ECU a "clean bill of health" is the way to go - at least it's another box ticked. I'll look into it.

Darren 69 - I didn't think of that.... generate a fault and see if the ECU picks it up and throws up a warning light - clever. (Well - I think so)

Slob - thanks for whereabouts of Avanti.
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:07 AM   #32
Darren69
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Although I mentioned the temp sensors before, iirc the front cylinder one is only for the temp display readout, so disconnecting that one will just cause the it to not show anything (---- dashes or something like). I'm trying to remember if the rear cylinder sensor will throw an error or not as this one connects to the ECU. It may just cause the fuel map to default to a base setting.
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Old 06-06-2019, 05:39 PM   #33
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Darren 69 - I didn't think of that.... generate a fault and see if the ECU picks it up and throws up a warning light - clever. (Well - I think so)
Probably not so clever if you are going to send your ECU away to be interrogated... and you have introduced a load of spurious faults?
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:32 AM   #34
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Probably not so clever if you are going to send your ECU away to be interrogated... and you have introduced a load of spurious faults?
Good point Gary. I'm assuming that the current fault is not something that would show up an error message, if it was then the light would be lit.

If you want to be sure which errors are genuine when interrogating the ECU then you could pick an innocuous one like the cooling fan and you will get a Fan not connected error.

That way any before that then you could be sure were genuine ones.

Are you sure its not one of the safety interlocks,? eg the side stand or clutch interlocks switches are working correctly?
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:36 AM   #35
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I would go back to the start and check you have spark all the time, put a spare plug in and crank with both plugs in, when you had it running, how did you stop it, key off or kill-switch ? the switches aren't very good inside and suffer with corrosion after a time standing, try stripping and cleaning contacts with wet & dry, if you have spark it should try to run WD 40
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Old 07-06-2019, 02:19 PM   #36
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I would go back to the start and check you have spark all the time, put a spare plug in and crank with both plugs in, when you had it running, how did you stop it, key off or kill-switch ? the switches aren't very good inside and suffer with corrosion after a time standing, try stripping and cleaning contacts with wet & dry, if you have spark it should try to run WD 40
I'm thinking the same. Re-check ignition/coil connections and relays.
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:21 PM   #37
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Pictures as attempted in my comment of the 5th.

Please hopefully find pictures that I was trying to send earlier - (This is as per Luddite's guidance - thank you again.) one is of the ECU - which model is this? - and the second was the point where I ground to a halt trying to down load IAWdiag as I believe it is asking me which ECU it is - (there is a hole in my bucket dear Liza....)



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Old 07-06-2019, 06:08 PM   #38
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If you carefully peel back the S925PO09 label I think you may find the ECU model number underneath...
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Old 07-06-2019, 06:37 PM   #39
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If you carefully peel back the S925PO09 label I think you may find the ECU model number underneath...
Yea, thats been added later and not Ducati i dont think either. Refer to the ECU section on Avanti website ecplains what the numbers all mean.

Maybe its been reflashed previously at some time?
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Old 08-06-2019, 07:34 AM   #40
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Am I correct in assuming that the ECU would have had to be "reflashed" in order to support the QD Ex Box Exhaust that has been fitted?

And does "reflashed" (in my language because I am old) - mean reprogrammed?
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Old 08-06-2019, 07:53 AM   #41
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no and yes

doesn’t need reflashing, but you should go somewhere that can check exhaust o2 by tweeking its settings

reflash is more or less like new software without getting too geeky
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Old 08-06-2019, 11:09 AM   #42
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Peel off the S925P009 sticker off. Underneath you will see the ECU model. The S925P009 is the number of the map the ECU is flashed with and corresponds to the model of the bike.

In the Guzzi software select 59MPF09 but even if you select the other two you still can read the fault codes.

Word of warning. The GuzziDiag software has ability to re-calibrate TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) - DO NOT USE IT.

However I suggest you use the IAW software. IAWDiag Writer software is used for re-flashing. You can read the codes with IAWDiag Reader software. Download here - IAW5xReader V0.28 (5AM, 59M) and IAW5xWriter V0.24 (5AM, 59M) Works on both 59M and 5AM ECUs

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...Y_2KYc4Z6LJrIW
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Old 08-06-2019, 11:32 AM   #43
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Is there a way of testing the sensors off the bike (or on it, if relevant).

For instance if you dunked the water temp sensor in some hot water of known temperature, it should register on the dash, no? (presumably it would need to be earthed to work?) That particular sensor probably doesn't talk to the ECU, but you see what I'm getting at.

If the sensor was sending wrong information, this would not register as a fault because the ECU could not check the info, just read and accept it.

One scenario I can think of that might hinder starting is, if the ECU thought that the engine was still hot from a "stuck" temperature sensor, then it would not engage a cold starting mixture. Sparks and fuel would still be in evidence and no fault code would register.

Detecting fault codes is the first call though, but if this still presents an impasse then testing sensors might be the way to go.
If they are cheap this could be simply done by substitution, one at a time.

Does anyone know if any or all of the sensors can be bench tested at home?
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:26 PM   #44
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I thank everyone for their input to date - taking all comments into account I think its time to interrogate the ECU and identify the fault codes - (the facility is there after all so its seems prudent to use it.) Haloguy628 I think I could be generating a whole world of pain, (and more problems) by attempting to do this myself so whilst I appreciate all your advice, guidance and comments I intend to send off the ECU for "interrogation."

In the interim, I will change cam belts as vigorously suggested on the forum.

I will update and continue the thread when I have the ECU results.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:54 PM   #45
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Wise move Chris.
I know that the price of Ducati (gates) belts make most peoples eyes water! A lot now use Exactfit belts, which meet and exceed the spec of Gates belts and have been proven in many a Ducati... Just can't bring the importers name into my head! Sorry.... Cue forum intervention...
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