1995 m900

95 monster 900
13809 miles
One off spray job done to the bike
Shorty pipes
New rear shock
CNC quick release fuel cap
Led rev counter with carbon fiber surround
Carbon fiber rear hugger/side panels /front mudguard
Had a full carb rebuild new diaframs jets seals
Pod filters
Brand new gel battery
New CNC clutch pressure plate
CNC clutch cover.

Bad points the carbs need setup properly at a Dyno the bike dose run and idles fine but I have tried myself but but I can't seem to get them dialed in right she bog's down a stutters a lot when on the road.

It's a shame since I spent all winter spraying up the bike and it looks and sounds stunning its probably something extremely simple but in all honesty I am just fed up with it now and want to move on.

Because of all the paint work and parts im looking for 3k ono bike is in the Isle of Skye













Any more questions feel free to message me.

[Mark64]

Hi Wulfie, lovin the paintwork, bike looks very clean & tidy, I bet it sounds mint with those
pipes, glws ��

Yeah Im a spray painter full time in a wee bodyshop here on skye I wanted to do something different than the usual rosso red it took most of the winter to paint pictures dont do the tank etc justice.

Its a 3 stage red pearl with a silver ground coat which makes it pop in the sunlight the stripes are Aston martin onyx black metalic and aye the pipes sounds awesome as well

[Mr Gazza]

You can certainly spray matey. That's a very nice finish and colour.

It will run a lot better with the airbox and some silencers on. Probably needs the little grey plastic pods back on too, as they are important for the carb breathers.

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

You can certainly spray matey. That's a very nice finish and colour.

It will run a lot better with the airbox and some silencers on. Probably needs the little grey plastic pods back on too, as they are important for the carb breathers.

In all honesty I did chuck all that stuff back on to see if it would make a differance and it was the same the carbs have been on and off five or six times now I balanced them also and no differance I am just fed up and at my wits end now and dont have the patience with it any more.

[Darren69]

I reckon it's the Pod filters causing the running issues, have seen it many times on here before. Open airbox with K&N is usually the best way to go.

[mickj]

Bike looks great Importing some sun for the photo shoot must have cost though

[Zimbo]

Agree with Darren, these bikes need the airbox to run right, it's almost impossible to get them to run clean on pod filters. Try reinstalling the airbox, it may just solve it!

[Flip]

Paint looks gorgeous especially contrasting with the black frame.

It’s got to be worth a go sticking the air box back on as CV carbs definitely don’t like not having one and as Mr G says even removing the little frame mounted canisters results in air washing over the breather pipes like blowing over a bottle causing the slides to fluctuate giving a feeling a bit like going onto reserve as it leans off on a steady throttle. Also those pipes probably aren’t helping an already (most likely very) lean running motor.

Also, am not so familiar with the very early bikes (Darkness help here please) but are your forks positioned correctly in the yokes as my ‘97 900 has them pulled through some as standard not flush like yours appear to be?

[Darkness]

Forks do look high in the yokes, there’s normally about 1/2” of fork above the top yoke, but what really matters is the static sag. That and whether the back end has been lifted too?
If the front’s high and the back isn’t, it makes the bike more stable in a straight line (Think chopper), but is reluctant to drop into corners.

[Flip]

Originally Posted by Darkness

Forks do look high in the yokes, there’s normally about 1/2” of fork above the top yoke, but what really matters is the static sag. That and whether the back end has been lifted too?
If the front’s high and the back isn’t, it makes the bike more stable in a straight line (Think chopper), but is reluctant to drop into corners.

Yes they looked high to me but wasn’t sure if the early bikes were like that- I know the rear is usually wound right down at the back as standard which makes them quite ‘choppery’ anyway which would be exaggerated by not pulling the forks through.

My forks are through about 30mm with the rear raised a similar amount making it an engaging ride when pushing on but thanks to Maxton and Nitron, all kept sublimely under control at the same time.

It’s all personal preference of course.

there is about 20mm of the front fork poking through the top of the yoke but then again the bike had a new YSS shock fitted on the rear maybe the front has been ajusted for the differance of rear shock over the standard? I dunno it was the previous owner that changed the shock but she handles fine so im not complaining.

I did put the pods back on id put the airbox back on although it got chopped for the pod filters so if im gonna go that back that way I'd need to buy another one I run the bike home today after work and I had the end of the cans misted over in unburnt fuel so she's running waaaay too rich just now I've ajusted the mixture screws half a turn to try and lean the bike out and ill run it to work and see if that made a differance.

[Flip]

I guess this is really going to boil down to whether or not you want to get it running right to make the sale easier or simply sell it as is and be prepared for all the haggling people will do to try and knock you down on price for a bike that doesn't run right?

I would have thought if it is running rich enough to wet the pipes as much as you say then you'd have lots of popping and flames on the over-run?

Did you actually change the jets/needle heights when you fitted the filters etc.?

You have to remember that the fuelling uses a number of circuits that overlap depending upon engine speed and throttle opening meaning you need to take note of when it starts to misbehave to know where and what to begin altering.

Originally Posted by Flip

I guess this is really going to boil down to whether or not you want to get it running right to make the sale easier or simply sell it as is and be prepared for all the haggling people will do to try and knock you down on price for a bike that doesn't run right?

I would have thought if it is running rich enough to wet the pipes as much as you say then you'd have lots of popping and flames on the over-run?

Did you actually change the jets/needle heights when you fitted the filters etc.?

You have to remember that the fuelling uses a number of circuits that overlap depending upon engine speed and throttle opening meaning you need to take note of when it starts to misbehave to know where and what to begin altering.

Yeah it wasn't running great when I first got it lots bogging down at various throttle positions hence why I took the carbs off bought and fitted the rebuild kit and a stage 3 sigma jet kit. I've made notes of everything before I changed anything out settings etc fitted it all back together according to sigmas instructions and no difference still the same. I feel like it's been all a waste of time and money hence being fed up and just wanting to sell it now.

It's just a shame as it's s cracking bike it's probably just those carbs that are the issue.

Fitted the 2nd hand OE air box on and put the standard jets back into the bike it is more ridable but the carbs still ant 100%

And with that I am 100% done with this bike now I ain't doing anything more to it now.

£2750