Anyone help with spec of 696 fork?

29-12-2010, 06:46 AM

Can anyone tell me are these forks adjustable at the top or are they like the ones on the old 620? IE is there means of adjustment for spring preload, compression or rebound damping, or is it a case of opening them up?
Thanks for any info!

BigOz · 29-12-2010, 08:28 AM

Hi,

They have no adjustment at all, and only have a damping cartridge in one leg, I'll dig out an exploded diagram shortly.

Andy

slob · 29-12-2010, 08:30 AM

Almost certainly no external adjustment (not on 620ie either) only 900/1000/S4x had adjustable forks.

BigOz · 29-12-2010, 08:38 AM

crust · 29-12-2010, 02:37 PM

If you're thinking of these as an upgrade for your soon to be arriving M600 (as in the lighter wheels thread) why not look at alternative manufacturers forks.

GSXR K series forks I believe are a straight fit in M600/900 yokes, are adjustable.

The other benefits are depending on year you could fit radial brakes and use a GSXR wheel which is lighter than the standard Brembo wheel.

29-12-2010, 03:06 PM

Thanks everyone!! Really helpful info! Yes I was thinking of these as an upgrade for the m600 to go with the 25mm axle wheels.
Now to see how I can fit the 696 swingarm... anyone? Thinking it will be much stiffer and possibly even lighter than the stock one?

slob · 29-12-2010, 04:55 PM

Dukes tend towards being a bit on the stiff side, rather than too soft like Jap bikes of old, save your cash until you've actually ridden it. Also even a liitle 50bhp 600 is not immediately in need of lighter wheels, already capable of embarassing all sorts in the twisties (in the right hands)

01-01-2011, 08:02 PM

So what is the best upgrade for the 696 fork then? New springs, oil and valves?
Anyone had this done or have any suggestions of who to turn to for this?
thanks!!

02-01-2011, 08:20 AM

Don't be fooled into thinking that you need thicker oil when replacing the valves. Upgraded valves mean finer control of the damping fluid so thinner oil is required. Change springs to suit your weight and riding style if you like. But springs are a mine-field too! You've mentioned valves, so control is something you're after and you shouldn't be able to live without linear fork springs. These give, as the name suggests, an equal rate all the way down the fork stroke. Perfect for the track as you want to remove as many variables as you can. Progressve springs are whats nailed to road stuff. These get harder as they compress - basically doing their best to prevent themselves bottoming out and making you look like an arse who can't set a bike up. Take your springs out and you'll probably find that the spring coils are closer together at one end - these are progressive springs.

Sometimes its better not to have adjustment everywhere; if you haven't got it, you don't worry about it. It means less fiddling, less excuses, and more time to enjoy your riding.

It all depends on what you're doing with it. You don't need K-Tech this and Ohlins that if all you're doing is bimbling to up to another bloody red light oppisite Budgey Wharf.

Cakey Spooner

02-01-2011, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 955SP

So what is the best upgrade for the 696 fork then? New springs, oil and valves?
Anyone had this done or have any suggestions of who to turn to for this?
thanks!!

Try hmracing.co.uk as your in london altho they're in the process of moving to Edenbrige, they did the suspension on Mark Listers dd championship winning bike.

BigOz · 02-01-2011, 12:22 PM

MCT in Stowmarket sorted mine and I've been very happy with the change.

Andy

29-12-2010, 06:46 AM	#1
955SP Guest Posts: n/a	Anyone help with spec of 696 fork? Can anyone tell me are these forks adjustable at the top or are they like the ones on the old 620? IE is there means of adjustment for spring preload, compression or rebound damping, or is it a case of opening them up? Thanks for any info!

29-12-2010, 04:55 PM	#7
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	Dukes tend towards being a bit on the stiff side, rather than too soft like Jap bikes of old, save your cash until you've actually ridden it. Also even a liitle 50bhp 600 is not immediately in need of lighter wheels, already capable of embarassing all sorts in the twisties (in the right hands) Last edited by slob; 29-12-2010 at 06:26 PM..

29-12-2010, 08:28 AM	#2
BigOz Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Chatham Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 714	Hi, They have no adjustment at all, and only have a damping cartridge in one leg, I'll dig out an exploded diagram shortly. Andy

29-12-2010, 08:30 AM	#3
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	Almost certainly no external adjustment (not on 620ie either) only 900/1000/S4x had adjustable forks.

29-12-2010, 08:38 AM	#4
BigOz Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Chatham Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 714

29-12-2010, 02:37 PM	#5
crust rattles when he walks Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: in the comfy chair,moved furniture around Bike: M900 Posts: 1,065	If you're thinking of these as an upgrade for your soon to be arriving M600 (as in the lighter wheels thread) why not look at alternative manufacturers forks. GSXR K series forks I believe are a straight fit in M600/900 yokes, are adjustable. The other benefits are depending on year you could fit radial brakes and use a GSXR wheel which is lighter than the standard Brembo wheel.

29-12-2010, 03:06 PM	#6
955SP Guest Posts: n/a	Thanks everyone!! Really helpful info! Yes I was thinking of these as an upgrade for the m600 to go with the 25mm axle wheels. Now to see how I can fit the 696 swingarm... anyone? Thinking it will be much stiffer and possibly even lighter than the stock one?

01-01-2011, 08:02 PM	#8
955SP Guest Posts: n/a	So what is the best upgrade for the 696 fork then? New springs, oil and valves? Anyone had this done or have any suggestions of who to turn to for this? thanks!!

02-01-2011, 08:20 AM	#9
Mr Cake Guest Posts: n/a	Don't be fooled into thinking that you need thicker oil when replacing the valves. Upgraded valves mean finer control of the damping fluid so thinner oil is required. Change springs to suit your weight and riding style if you like. But springs are a mine-field too! You've mentioned valves, so control is something you're after and you shouldn't be able to live without linear fork springs. These give, as the name suggests, an equal rate all the way down the fork stroke. Perfect for the track as you want to remove as many variables as you can. Progressve springs are whats nailed to road stuff. These get harder as they compress - basically doing their best to prevent themselves bottoming out and making you look like an arse who can't set a bike up. Take your springs out and you'll probably find that the spring coils are closer together at one end - these are progressive springs. Sometimes its better not to have adjustment everywhere; if you haven't got it, you don't worry about it. It means less fiddling, less excuses, and more time to enjoy your riding. It all depends on what you're doing with it. You don't need K-Tech this and Ohlins that if all you're doing is bimbling to up to another bloody red light oppisite Budgey Wharf. Cakey Spooner

02-01-2011, 12:22 PM	#11
BigOz Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Chatham Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 714	MCT in Stowmarket sorted mine and I've been very happy with the change. Andy