620monster

17-05-2018, 02:31 PM

So it's arrived... Wondering how rattly the engine should sound on idle. It seems very to me but then I've never had a v twin before.

Grumpy · 17-05-2018, 03:16 PM

The dry clutch will rattle, as to how much depends on different factors. Is an open clutch cover fitted. What condition is the basket/ clutch plates in.
I don't know if this is relevant, The 600 model suffered with piston slap. I'm not sure whether the 620 Does as well.
No doubt someone else will be along in a minute to clarify.

17-05-2018, 03:23 PM

Doesn't the 620 have a wet clutch? Not open no... Friend with an aprilia says it sounds smooth compared to his bike.

Seems to run fine, if a little warmer than I expected.

Flip · 17-05-2018, 07:48 PM

The 620 definitely has a wet clutch- it is only the 900's and later 1000/1100cc (along with some early oddball 750's but that might have just been on the SS's?) bikes that enjoy the dry clutch symphony so any rattles probably aren't from that.

But obviously twins are a little lumpy running by their very nature especially if you have come from the world of Oriental in line fours but the fuel injected bikes should run smoother than the older carburetted models - it is probably a case of just getting to know each other

19-05-2018, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flip

it is probably a case of just getting to know each other

I think that's the nail on the head.

Darren69 · 20-05-2018, 06:59 AM

The 600 did suffer from piston slap on the front cylinder, don't know if maybe the 620 had the same issues. I think they changed from forged pistons to cast ones on later bikes which cured this to some degree. If it is that it should be ok as it is a common issue, on the 600 at least.

Mr Gazza · 20-05-2018, 07:53 AM

What do you know about your new bike?
Are the valve clearances within spec? Are the belts new?

Valves should be checked, and adjusted if necessary every 6000 miles. Belts should be replaced every two years regardless of mileage, this is most important if it has stood idle for a long time.

Desmodromic valve clearances are critical.
If a belt snaps it will stop it rattling.. Permanently!

Blah blah · 22-05-2018, 10:00 PM

They will sound lumpy at tickover after IL4 and other assorted Japanese stuff and it will feel somewhat different to anything else.

Belts and a service and enjoy !

24-05-2018, 07:53 PM

So I've been and visited a fairly local chap called Clive Fitzgerald. He's got many many Ducati (ducatii?) Including a 620 monster

He's assured me that my engine etc is all sweet.

But he shares my concerns about the gearbox being very clunky.

It's currently got semi synthetic in it. So he's suggested using full synthetic will make a large difference.

It feels like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. So it's like doing crap clutch less shifts when not intending to.

Slave cylinder seals? What's the likelyhood?

Any other suggestions?

(Also new gremlin just as I got home, fuel light on... Filled up... Light staying on... Something in tank needing a moment to fill back up to knock that off? Or do I have a sensor that's just decided to kill itself?)

Please help!!

24-05-2018, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Gazza

What do you know about your new bike?
Are the valve clearances within spec? Are the belts new?

Valves should be checked, and adjusted if necessary every 6000 miles. Belts should be replaced every two years regardless of mileage, this is most important if it has stood idle for a long time.

Desmodromic valve clearances are critical.
If a belt snaps it will stop it rattling.. Permanently!

I have a receipt from 2 weeks ago for belt change and valve clearance check. And dealer sent the old belts for what that's worth. He took bike to local indy, who did the work and motd the bike.

So hopefully that's all in order. It's just the clunky gear change that's my worry now

Luddite · 24-05-2018, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ocatoro

It's currently got semi synthetic in it. So he's suggested using full synthetic will make a large difference.

It feels like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. So it's like doing crap clutch less shifts when not intending to.

Slave cylinder seals? What's the likelyhood?

Any other suggestions?

I use Motul 7100 fully synthetic. It's currently £37 for 4 litres from here: https://www.mytyres.co.uk/oil/produc...cts/motul/1379

Whatever oil you chose, make sure it's rated JASO MA2, which means it's ok for wet clutches.

As for the clutch, have you tried changing the fluid or bleeding it?

25-05-2018, 04:16 AM

The oil was jaso-m2 but semi synth (Petronas syntium Moto). And I'm told it will make a difference.

I did bleed a load of fluid through the clutch line so that's all new too.

17-05-2018, 02:31 PM	#1
ocatoro Guest Posts: n/a	620monster So it's arrived... Wondering how rattly the engine should sound on idle. It seems very to me but then I've never had a v twin before.

17-05-2018, 03:16 PM	#2
Grumpy record breaker!! Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Peterborough Bike: M1200R Posts: 2,154	The dry clutch will rattle, as to how much depends on different factors. Is an open clutch cover fitted. What condition is the basket/ clutch plates in. I don't know if this is relevant, The 600 model suffered with piston slap. I'm not sure whether the 620 Does as well. No doubt someone else will be along in a minute to clarify. __________________ It's not the destination, but the journey that matters Definition of a motorbike, a devise for overtaking cars!

17-05-2018, 07:48 PM	#4
Flip Registered User Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Beachtown Bike: M900 Posts: 2,188	The 620 definitely has a wet clutch- it is only the 900's and later 1000/1100cc (along with some early oddball 750's but that might have just been on the SS's?) bikes that enjoy the dry clutch symphony so any rattles probably aren't from that. But obviously twins are a little lumpy running by their very nature especially if you have come from the world of Oriental in line fours but the fuel injected bikes should run smoother than the older carburetted models - it is probably a case of just getting to know each other __________________ You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you!

20-05-2018, 06:59 AM	#6
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	The 600 did suffer from piston slap on the front cylinder, don't know if maybe the 620 had the same issues. I think they changed from forged pistons to cast ones on later bikes which cured this to some degree. If it is that it should be ok as it is a common issue, on the 600 at least. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage

20-05-2018, 07:53 AM	#7
Mr Gazza Lord of the Rings Join Date: May 2013 Location: Norwich Bike: M900sie Posts: 5,804	What do you know about your new bike? Are the valve clearances within spec? Are the belts new? Valves should be checked, and adjusted if necessary every 6000 miles. Belts should be replaced every two years regardless of mileage, this is most important if it has stood idle for a long time. Desmodromic valve clearances are critical. If a belt snaps it will stop it rattling.. Permanently! __________________

17-05-2018, 03:23 PM	#3
ocatoro Guest Posts: n/a	Doesn't the 620 have a wet clutch? Not open no... Friend with an aprilia says it sounds smooth compared to his bike. Seems to run fine, if a little warmer than I expected.

22-05-2018, 10:00 PM	#8
Blah blah Upsetting normal people.. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Portreath Bike: S2r Posts: 833	They will sound lumpy at tickover after IL4 and other assorted Japanese stuff and it will feel somewhat different to anything else. Belts and a service and enjoy ! __________________ Power is nothing without control... I have neither !

24-05-2018, 07:53 PM	#9
ocatoro Guest Posts: n/a	So I've been and visited a fairly local chap called Clive Fitzgerald. He's got many many Ducati (ducatii?) Including a 620 monster He's assured me that my engine etc is all sweet. But he shares my concerns about the gearbox being very clunky. It's currently got semi synthetic in it. So he's suggested using full synthetic will make a large difference. It feels like the clutch isn't fully disengaging. So it's like doing crap clutch less shifts when not intending to. Slave cylinder seals? What's the likelyhood? Any other suggestions? (Also new gremlin just as I got home, fuel light on... Filled up... Light staying on... Something in tank needing a moment to fill back up to knock that off? Or do I have a sensor that's just decided to kill itself?) Please help!!

25-05-2018, 04:16 AM	#12
ocatoro Guest Posts: n/a	The oil was jaso-m2 but semi synth (Petronas syntium Moto). And I'm told it will make a difference. I did bleed a load of fluid through the clutch line so that's all new too.