Slow Monster rebuild - Page 71

Dukedesmo · 11-12-2019, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350TSS

"you can take the barrels off and leave the pistons in the barrels by removing the gudgeon pins".

Whilst possible, I prefer to take the pistons out to clean and inspect everything (no point de-coking the head and leaving the pistons IMO) plus there's a good chance the circlip will 'ping' off and be lost or end up in the cases.

You can also visually check the oil gallery plug is in place once the barrels are off.

As for re-fitting, I use a strip of shim steel and a large jubilee clip as a ring compressor and have fitted many pistons (including my M900 on several occasions!) without ever breaking a ring.

350TSS · 11-12-2019, 05:31 PM

Progress today of sorts, first I addressed the slightly tight opening shim on the exhaust valve, more figure of eight patterns on 600 wet and dry. That is as good as it is going to get, right on the 0.10mm specified minimum clearance.
Next I moved to the inlet valve, rebuilding it with the original shims which were 0.1mm + out on the opening and closing clearances. Selecting the best shim I had for the opening clearance I needed to remove 0.04mm from the chosen shim. I did not mess about with 600 grade this time but got 0.03 off with 180 grit then polished it with 600 grade for the last 0.01mm. This took about an hour and a half.
On the closing shim I had one that gave a clearance of 0.06mm, i.e 0.01 too large, if I wanted to put the clearance at 0.04 (the mid-point in the specified clearance) I would need to reduce my next nearest available shim by ) 0.07mm. I think I will live with a closing clearance out by 0.01mm on both vertical cylinder valves. The bike was running well before with the clearances at around 0.1mm.
The new black cylinder/head studs have been ordered from those nice people at Moto Rapido (Craig) with 10% UKMOC discount at c £96 including VAT for 8.

350TSS · 12-12-2019, 04:46 PM

Solid progress was made today but one screw up which will be an hour or so setback.

I tested the vertical cylinder inlet valve with methylated spirit and that is also a success, not a trace in the combustion chamber when the stuff was poured into the inlet port.

Time to remove the horizontal cylinder head, the nuts were a lot more reluctant to budge than the vertical cylinder ones and on a couple of occasions the creaking and cracking noises made me think I had sheared a couple of the studs.

As you would expect the front cylinder is much more exposed to the elements and the condition of the head and barrel and the stainless(?) steel studs illustrates it perfectly – really cruddy.
The carbon in the head was oilier, not scorched on and crusty like the vertical cylinder. The bore is nicely run in with no scoring etc.

The inlet valve was in very good condition

The valve clearances were miles out, both closing shims at 0.08mm (should be between 0.03mm and 0.05mm). The opening clearance were 0.23mm inlet and 0.17mm exhaust when they should be between 0.10mm and 0.12mm.

I decoked the head and cleaned up the valves and set the clearances for both opening and closing for the inlet and exhaust valves (+0.01mm on both the closing clearances and both openers at 0.10mm)

The closing shims I have taken out have all shown some signs of chattering on the wire spring clips as the engagement groove in the shim is shiny and in some cases showing signs of erosion.
I have been lucky because I have not needed to re- use any of these old shims nor have I neededany additional shims as all those needed have been different sizes. In all cases I have had to us wet and dry to get them right.

The screw up was that in putting the vertical head together I used the wrong valve stem cap, green ones are exhaust and black ones are inlet, so that will have to be disassembled and put right. It was too bloody cold in the garage today to get that changed over today

Below is a picture of the camshaft oil seal collar showing where the oil seal has worn the hardened steel (or rather the road grid excluded by the seal has collected and damaged the collar. Yesterday I bit the bullet and ordered two new ones.

upload images online

My new studs should be here on Monday, hopefully in the same post as my HD stud remover.
Ever the optimist I might have the engine back together before Christmas unless fresh disasters befall me.

350TSS · 15-12-2019, 05:48 PM

Chances of buttoning up the engine (barrels and heads back on) before Christmas disappeared when Craig at Moto Rapido advised that Ducati cannot count to 8, they sent 7 black studs and I will have to wait until Tuesday before he can post parts to get the order fulfilled.

Still there are plenty of little jobs to be getting on with, cleaning rocker cover, cleaning camshaft bearing gasket faces, replacing the gear lever return springs (a good precautionary measure for about £8), fitting new gear lever shaft oil seal, fitting new oil level site glass window, fitting new timing glass window, bolting in the starter motor, bolting on the oil pump. None of which has the same kudos as the barrels and heads back on. C’est la vie.

350TSS · 17-12-2019, 05:57 PM

I only had a couple of hours in the garage today as I was suffering with a cold just coming to fruition.

I managed to swap over the wrongly installed valve cap seals without puncturing them either taking them off or replacing them. Whilst doing it I re-checked all the clearances. I had a about a 20 minute hiatus when I could not get the camshaft to sit back in its proper position until I realised that the drive side end shim was not properly located and would let the camshaft seat on the drive side bearing. Taking it out and locating the shim with some thick grease solved the issue.

Next I tackled replacement of the gear-change mechanism springs, purely a precautionary measure, although the old ones looked perfect and were working fine when the bike came off the road. The thought occurred to me that I might have just replaced some perfectly good ones with ones that are from a bad batch, incorrectly tempered or whatever. The new ones had slightly less aggressive bends so maybe they modified the design to limit the possibility of breakage.

When I painted the engine I made up a blanking plate for the starter motor hole, this was bolted on with 3 x 6mm hex head bolts inserted from inside the alternator case done up finger tight. The paint, of course, covered the threads exposed on the outside where the starter motor lives. Two came out OK as I could get access to the bolt head inside the alternator case, the third is the bolt that can only be accessed by inserting an allen key through the hole in the starter idler gear, plenty of access for an allen key but none available for a 10mm socket. After about half an hour trying to wedge the bolt so I could get the nut past the paint I had to take the idler gear off which is what I should have done in the first place. Doh!!!

I ordered one of these to heat the crankcase mouth around the studs that are to be replaced, my normal blow lamp I fear will saturate the area and mean a repaint.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133138149423

Darkness · 17-12-2019, 06:46 PM

And so useful for finishing creme brulee or Italian meringues too!

350TSS · 22-12-2019, 04:20 AM

Well I spent about 3 hours yesterday trying to remove the studs from the crankcase.
Having whipped the vertical barrel off I tried my new stud remover tool
https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand.../p/KEN5826760K
despite being a meaty piece of equipment (580g) it is a flawed design and does not work very well.

The wheel that is supposed to grip the stud is gnurled at 90 degrees so only the very peak of the gnurl catches the stud and as soon as you tighten further it moves into a valley and loosens before it grips again. Also the back side of the hole through which the stud is located is smooth chrome and the stud rather than being gripped tends to move around.
First I heated the crankcase with the little blow lamp as much as I dare, boiling off the residual WD40 squirted down the stud holes in the barrel overnight, then I tried the tool which I eventually managed to get to 80nM (twice the head torque down figure) but the stud was not for coming out. The studs are wasted in the middle and that torque level is a breaking level torque for the reduced diameter.
Discretion here is the better part of valour here I think. The old studs are staying

350TSS · 22-12-2019, 04:55 AM

Having reltuctantly made that decision (I have spent best part of £130 to have 8 spare studs and a heavy ornament in my tool box) I can move on.

The good news is that there as no evidence of blowby on the vertical piston and no scoring on the skirt. I will take the horizontal barrel off to check that one as well.

Thereafter all work will now be final assembly, maybe another 10 hours on the engine, assembling the alternator case, changing the outer crank bearing and renewing the seals and reassembling the sprag clutch then on the other side replacing the pump and renewing the clutch hub rubbers, the big seal in the clutch cover.
Then the engine can go back in the frame.
I cannot say how many hours are left to do because my Excel spreadsheet is on my other computer which spectacularly went bang last week but I susspect now down to 130 hours

350TSS · 01-01-2020, 12:12 PM

First venture into the garage for nearly a fortnight yesterday, bad cold and visiting relatives, stopped play.
It was too cold to stop long so looking for a quick job.
I thought I would close up the two cylinder heads, clean the rocker gasket faces and the cam bearing faces and bolt same to the two heads.
As I was about to bolt the cam bearings back into place I noticed that the shim washers which fit over the end of the camshaft before you slide the cam bearing on were different thicknesses. Then I managed to mix them up and have no idea which one is for the vertical cylinder and which for the horizontal cyinder.
I puzzled for some time as to how to measure which should go where.
After a while I concluded that since the cam is pulled toward the drive side bearing when the pulley nut is done up and the drive side bearing is an interference fit in the head there cannot be any camshaft end float.
The LH side bearing and cap are a slide fit on the tub end of the camshaft so the shims on that side are redundant as the lateral position of the camshaft is determined by the positioning of the interference fit bearing in the head. The position of the LH bearing laterally on the shaft is determined by inner face on the cap and the thickness of the gasket between the head and the bearing cap.
Provided the camshaft turns freely with no binding when the bearing cap is put on and torqued up with no gasket then the shim is redundant.
I hope I have explained this correctly and I think my logic is correct.
Am I missing something?

manwithredbike · 01-01-2020, 05:10 PM

I also mixed the shaft end thrust washers up when doing some head work a few years ago and thought much the same. The exploded diagram in the link (assuming it's the same motor as yours) has one at 0.2mm and one 0.5mm but doesn't say which goes where.
Maybe something to do with expansion i.e. vertical cylinder expanding a bit more?
https://www.motosparepartner.com/en/...camshaft_37933

350TSS · 02-01-2020, 03:30 AM

Thanks for the diagram, there are 2 sets of shims, drive side (20 in the diagram) and stub end (22 in the diagram) and they are different diameters with the drive side being larger diameter. I have only mixed up the stub end ones., which are the ones that come in 2 sizes, 0.2 and 0.5mm thick.
I shall build them up with the stub end shims installed but without the cam bearing gasket in place and torque them down and see if there is any binding. If there is no inding I will install the gaskets and the job will be done. If there is binding I will have to swap them round to get the shims in the right /original place.
Either way it is not really a problem, I just found it interesting that Ducati should design in superfluous components.

350TSS · 06-01-2020, 01:40 PM

I had a frustrating 3 hours in the garage yesterday, the plan was to re-fit the vertical cylinder barrel and head and remove the horizontal one and clean/decoke piston.
First I inverted the vertical piston in a jar of acetone and then after about half an hours soaking cleaned out the ring grooves with a tooth brush. the rings stayed on the piston as I wanted to avoid the risk of breaking them getiing them off. It worked a treat and the rings are now completely free to move.
I bought new gudgeon pin circlips from Moto Rapido and after inserting the gudgeon pin tried to fit a replacement. The one I had removed pinged across the garage striking a few metallic objects ( so at least I know it is not in the bowels of the crankcase) on the way and will never be seen again. I had no intention of refitting the old circlip but I did not have a sample of the old one to compare with the new ones.
After a good hour of struggling and with the crankcase mouth stuffed full of paper towels I still had not manged to get the circlip to engage properly in its groove.
I find when something goes badly it is as well to walk away and do something else for a while then come back to it afresh.
So I moved onto removing the horizontal cylinder.
An hour and a half later the cylinder had risen about 6 mm from its face on the crankcase. Galvanic corrosion between the aluminium barrel and the cylinder head studs was the culprit.
After a lot of tuggung and jiggling and a block of wood and a hide mallet on the cylinder base it eventually came off.
To clean out the stud holes I cut a slot in the end of a length of 8mm aluminium bar and put a strip of emery paper in the slot and reamed the corrosion out of the stud holes with the battery drill.
I then managed to remove one of the circlips from the horizontal piston without it disappearing into the nether regions of the garage.
The fitted circlips and the supplied circlips are not the same at all.
The fitted ones have a 90 degree bend at one end that will engage nicely with the machined indent in the piston adjacent to the circlip groove. The supplied ones have no such bend and are approximately 1mm bigger in diameter than the old one. I think I have the wrong ones.
So all three hours achieved was removal of the front cylinder barrel and a few paint chips on the outside of the starter motor where I resorted to a screwdriver as a lever to remove the barrel.

350TSS · 06-01-2020, 01:48 PM

Top tip:
Brake cleaner removes coppaslip grease from Christmas new jeans.
"don't go into the garage with your new jeans on"
"I'm not doing anything dirty I just want to measure something"
I manage to knock the coppaslip tin off the bench and the dirty rim runs down my leg on its way down
"Oh!! ****!!!"
It really does remove one of the most stubborn stains known to man.

Ron1000 · 06-01-2020, 04:10 PM

Been there. Coppaslip engrained into my fancy jeans, my wife says even my nice clothes are slowly getting grubby.

As for brake cleaner. I used rock oil stuff this winter. Says it’s safe on everything and can be used a general degreaser too. Happy days.

350TSS · 06-01-2020, 11:31 PM

Craig at Moto Rapido says "very early Monsters had the ears on the gudgeon pin circlips, these were superceded with the circlips without the ears"
Anyne have tiips about how to install the later "uneared" circlips? because I am really struggling to get them to engage in the circlip groove.
If none are forthcoming I think I shall grind about 2 to 3mm fron each end and see if that alleviates installation.

17-12-2019, 06:46 PM	#1056
Darkness . Join Date: May 2007 Location: Stockbridge Bike: M900 Posts: 1,984	And so useful for finishing creme brulee or Italian meringues too! __________________ Original and Best since 1993

01-01-2020, 05:10 PM	#1060
manwithredbike aka Phil Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: derry Bike: M900 Posts: 376	I also mixed the shaft end thrust washers up when doing some head work a few years ago and thought much the same. The exploded diagram in the link (assuming it's the same motor as yours) has one at 0.2mm and one 0.5mm but doesn't say which goes where. Maybe something to do with expansion i.e. vertical cylinder expanding a bit more? https://www.motosparepartner.com/en/...camshaft_37933 __________________ .. ~

11-12-2019, 05:31 PM	#1052
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Progress today of sorts, first I addressed the slightly tight opening shim on the exhaust valve, more figure of eight patterns on 600 wet and dry. That is as good as it is going to get, right on the 0.10mm specified minimum clearance. Next I moved to the inlet valve, rebuilding it with the original shims which were 0.1mm + out on the opening and closing clearances. Selecting the best shim I had for the opening clearance I needed to remove 0.04mm from the chosen shim. I did not mess about with 600 grade this time but got 0.03 off with 180 grit then polished it with 600 grade for the last 0.01mm. This took about an hour and a half. On the closing shim I had one that gave a clearance of 0.06mm, i.e 0.01 too large, if I wanted to put the clearance at 0.04 (the mid-point in the specified clearance) I would need to reduce my next nearest available shim by ) 0.07mm. I think I will live with a closing clearance out by 0.01mm on both vertical cylinder valves. The bike was running well before with the clearances at around 0.1mm. The new black cylinder/head studs have been ordered from those nice people at Moto Rapido (Craig) with 10% UKMOC discount at c £96 including VAT for 8.

12-12-2019, 04:46 PM	#1053
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Solid progress was made today but one screw up which will be an hour or so setback. I tested the vertical cylinder inlet valve with methylated spirit and that is also a success, not a trace in the combustion chamber when the stuff was poured into the inlet port. Time to remove the horizontal cylinder head, the nuts were a lot more reluctant to budge than the vertical cylinder ones and on a couple of occasions the creaking and cracking noises made me think I had sheared a couple of the studs. As you would expect the front cylinder is much more exposed to the elements and the condition of the head and barrel and the stainless(?) steel studs illustrates it perfectly – really cruddy. The carbon in the head was oilier, not scorched on and crusty like the vertical cylinder. The bore is nicely run in with no scoring etc. The inlet valve was in very good condition The valve clearances were miles out, both closing shims at 0.08mm (should be between 0.03mm and 0.05mm). The opening clearance were 0.23mm inlet and 0.17mm exhaust when they should be between 0.10mm and 0.12mm. I decoked the head and cleaned up the valves and set the clearances for both opening and closing for the inlet and exhaust valves (+0.01mm on both the closing clearances and both openers at 0.10mm) The closing shims I have taken out have all shown some signs of chattering on the wire spring clips as the engagement groove in the shim is shiny and in some cases showing signs of erosion. I have been lucky because I have not needed to re- use any of these old shims nor have I neededany additional shims as all those needed have been different sizes. In all cases I have had to us wet and dry to get them right. The screw up was that in putting the vertical head together I used the wrong valve stem cap, green ones are exhaust and black ones are inlet, so that will have to be disassembled and put right. It was too bloody cold in the garage today to get that changed over today Below is a picture of the camshaft oil seal collar showing where the oil seal has worn the hardened steel (or rather the road grid excluded by the seal has collected and damaged the collar. Yesterday I bit the bullet and ordered two new ones. upload images online My new studs should be here on Monday, hopefully in the same post as my HD stud remover. Ever the optimist I might have the engine back together before Christmas unless fresh disasters befall me.

15-12-2019, 05:48 PM	#1054
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Chances of buttoning up the engine (barrels and heads back on) before Christmas disappeared when Craig at Moto Rapido advised that Ducati cannot count to 8, they sent 7 black studs and I will have to wait until Tuesday before he can post parts to get the order fulfilled. Still there are plenty of little jobs to be getting on with, cleaning rocker cover, cleaning camshaft bearing gasket faces, replacing the gear lever return springs (a good precautionary measure for about £8), fitting new gear lever shaft oil seal, fitting new oil level site glass window, fitting new timing glass window, bolting in the starter motor, bolting on the oil pump. None of which has the same kudos as the barrels and heads back on. C’est la vie.

17-12-2019, 05:57 PM	#1055
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	I only had a couple of hours in the garage today as I was suffering with a cold just coming to fruition. I managed to swap over the wrongly installed valve cap seals without puncturing them either taking them off or replacing them. Whilst doing it I re-checked all the clearances. I had a about a 20 minute hiatus when I could not get the camshaft to sit back in its proper position until I realised that the drive side end shim was not properly located and would let the camshaft seat on the drive side bearing. Taking it out and locating the shim with some thick grease solved the issue. Next I tackled replacement of the gear-change mechanism springs, purely a precautionary measure, although the old ones looked perfect and were working fine when the bike came off the road. The thought occurred to me that I might have just replaced some perfectly good ones with ones that are from a bad batch, incorrectly tempered or whatever. The new ones had slightly less aggressive bends so maybe they modified the design to limit the possibility of breakage. When I painted the engine I made up a blanking plate for the starter motor hole, this was bolted on with 3 x 6mm hex head bolts inserted from inside the alternator case done up finger tight. The paint, of course, covered the threads exposed on the outside where the starter motor lives. Two came out OK as I could get access to the bolt head inside the alternator case, the third is the bolt that can only be accessed by inserting an allen key through the hole in the starter idler gear, plenty of access for an allen key but none available for a 10mm socket. After about half an hour trying to wedge the bolt so I could get the nut past the paint I had to take the idler gear off which is what I should have done in the first place. Doh!!! I ordered one of these to heat the crankcase mouth around the studs that are to be replaced, my normal blow lamp I fear will saturate the area and mean a repaint. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133138149423

22-12-2019, 04:20 AM	#1057
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Well I spent about 3 hours yesterday trying to remove the studs from the crankcase. Having whipped the vertical barrel off I tried my new stud remover tool https://www.cromwell.co.uk/shop/hand.../p/KEN5826760K despite being a meaty piece of equipment (580g) it is a flawed design and does not work very well. The wheel that is supposed to grip the stud is gnurled at 90 degrees so only the very peak of the gnurl catches the stud and as soon as you tighten further it moves into a valley and loosens before it grips again. Also the back side of the hole through which the stud is located is smooth chrome and the stud rather than being gripped tends to move around. First I heated the crankcase with the little blow lamp as much as I dare, boiling off the residual WD40 squirted down the stud holes in the barrel overnight, then I tried the tool which I eventually managed to get to 80nM (twice the head torque down figure) but the stud was not for coming out. The studs are wasted in the middle and that torque level is a breaking level torque for the reduced diameter. Discretion here is the better part of valour here I think. The old studs are staying

22-12-2019, 04:55 AM	#1058
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Having reltuctantly made that decision (I have spent best part of £130 to have 8 spare studs and a heavy ornament in my tool box) I can move on. The good news is that there as no evidence of blowby on the vertical piston and no scoring on the skirt. I will take the horizontal barrel off to check that one as well. Thereafter all work will now be final assembly, maybe another 10 hours on the engine, assembling the alternator case, changing the outer crank bearing and renewing the seals and reassembling the sprag clutch then on the other side replacing the pump and renewing the clutch hub rubbers, the big seal in the clutch cover. Then the engine can go back in the frame. I cannot say how many hours are left to do because my Excel spreadsheet is on my other computer which spectacularly went bang last week but I susspect now down to 130 hours

01-01-2020, 12:12 PM	#1059
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	First venture into the garage for nearly a fortnight yesterday, bad cold and visiting relatives, stopped play. It was too cold to stop long so looking for a quick job. I thought I would close up the two cylinder heads, clean the rocker gasket faces and the cam bearing faces and bolt same to the two heads. As I was about to bolt the cam bearings back into place I noticed that the shim washers which fit over the end of the camshaft before you slide the cam bearing on were different thicknesses. Then I managed to mix them up and have no idea which one is for the vertical cylinder and which for the horizontal cyinder. I puzzled for some time as to how to measure which should go where. After a while I concluded that since the cam is pulled toward the drive side bearing when the pulley nut is done up and the drive side bearing is an interference fit in the head there cannot be any camshaft end float. The LH side bearing and cap are a slide fit on the tub end of the camshaft so the shims on that side are redundant as the lateral position of the camshaft is determined by the positioning of the interference fit bearing in the head. The position of the LH bearing laterally on the shaft is determined by inner face on the cap and the thickness of the gasket between the head and the bearing cap. Provided the camshaft turns freely with no binding when the bearing cap is put on and torqued up with no gasket then the shim is redundant. I hope I have explained this correctly and I think my logic is correct. Am I missing something?

02-01-2020, 03:30 AM	#1061
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Thanks for the diagram, there are 2 sets of shims, drive side (20 in the diagram) and stub end (22 in the diagram) and they are different diameters with the drive side being larger diameter. I have only mixed up the stub end ones., which are the ones that come in 2 sizes, 0.2 and 0.5mm thick. I shall build them up with the stub end shims installed but without the cam bearing gasket in place and torque them down and see if there is any binding. If there is no inding I will install the gaskets and the job will be done. If there is binding I will have to swap them round to get the shims in the right /original place. Either way it is not really a problem, I just found it interesting that Ducati should design in superfluous components.

06-01-2020, 01:40 PM	#1062
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	I had a frustrating 3 hours in the garage yesterday, the plan was to re-fit the vertical cylinder barrel and head and remove the horizontal one and clean/decoke piston. First I inverted the vertical piston in a jar of acetone and then after about half an hours soaking cleaned out the ring grooves with a tooth brush. the rings stayed on the piston as I wanted to avoid the risk of breaking them getiing them off. It worked a treat and the rings are now completely free to move. I bought new gudgeon pin circlips from Moto Rapido and after inserting the gudgeon pin tried to fit a replacement. The one I had removed pinged across the garage striking a few metallic objects ( so at least I know it is not in the bowels of the crankcase) on the way and will never be seen again. I had no intention of refitting the old circlip but I did not have a sample of the old one to compare with the new ones. After a good hour of struggling and with the crankcase mouth stuffed full of paper towels I still had not manged to get the circlip to engage properly in its groove. I find when something goes badly it is as well to walk away and do something else for a while then come back to it afresh. So I moved onto removing the horizontal cylinder. An hour and a half later the cylinder had risen about 6 mm from its face on the crankcase. Galvanic corrosion between the aluminium barrel and the cylinder head studs was the culprit. After a lot of tuggung and jiggling and a block of wood and a hide mallet on the cylinder base it eventually came off. To clean out the stud holes I cut a slot in the end of a length of 8mm aluminium bar and put a strip of emery paper in the slot and reamed the corrosion out of the stud holes with the battery drill. I then managed to remove one of the circlips from the horizontal piston without it disappearing into the nether regions of the garage. The fitted circlips and the supplied circlips are not the same at all. The fitted ones have a 90 degree bend at one end that will engage nicely with the machined indent in the piston adjacent to the circlip groove. The supplied ones have no such bend and are approximately 1mm bigger in diameter than the old one. I think I have the wrong ones. So all three hours achieved was removal of the front cylinder barrel and a few paint chips on the outside of the starter motor where I resorted to a screwdriver as a lever to remove the barrel.

06-01-2020, 01:48 PM	#1063
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Top tip: Brake cleaner removes coppaslip grease from Christmas new jeans. "don't go into the garage with your new jeans on" "I'm not doing anything dirty I just want to measure something" I manage to knock the coppaslip tin off the bench and the dirty rim runs down my leg on its way down "Oh!! ****!!!" It really does remove one of the most stubborn stains known to man.

06-01-2020, 04:10 PM	#1064
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 863	Been there. Coppaslip engrained into my fancy jeans, my wife says even my nice clothes are slowly getting grubby. As for brake cleaner. I used rock oil stuff this winter. Says it’s safe on everything and can be used a general degreaser too. Happy days.

06-01-2020, 11:31 PM	#1065
350TSS Too much time on my hands member Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Shipbourne Bike: M900 Posts: 1,419	Craig at Moto Rapido says "very early Monsters had the ears on the gudgeon pin circlips, these were superceded with the circlips without the ears" Anyne have tiips about how to install the later "uneared" circlips? because I am really struggling to get them to engage in the circlip groove. If none are forthcoming I think I shall grind about 2 to 3mm fron each end and see if that alleviates installation.