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21-10-2019, 07:15 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
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Cleaning advice
Hi guys,
I’m going to clean my exhaust over the winter. Seems like the best approach is autosol. Is this used with a scotchbrite pad or just a soft cloth. Also has anybody went the harpic and pickling paste route? |
21-10-2019, 07:42 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Kent
Bike: M900
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Scotchbrite pad with wd40 and solvol autosol
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21-10-2019, 08:04 PM | #3 |
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If you're aiming to clean off that original brown/bronze finish, Ron, then whatever you use, you'll need to add a fair bit of elbow grease to get the desired result.
When I did mine, I didn't want the full shiny chrome look, just smooth, clean and silver rather than rough, brown and always dirty-looking. I used some 600 wet and dry (wet) then a stainless wire brush in a drill, then a brass brush, then Scotchbrite pads, then Solvol blueing remover, then finally Autosol and a buffing wheel. Once done, a light bronzing starts to reappear after a few hundred miles, but that's easily and quickly removed with either blueing remover or Harpic, which is what I use now. Have a look here for more info. http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=56466 |
21-10-2019, 08:25 PM | #4 |
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Braw link thanks lud.
Is the whole pickling paste afterwards thing a Requirement? |
21-10-2019, 08:35 PM | #5 |
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That pickling paste is a new one on me, Ron - perhaps it's a Scottish thing? Sounds like an acidic mix tho', which is what the Harpic and Solvol blueing remover are (i.e. hydrochloric).
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21-10-2019, 09:10 PM | #6 |
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Using Harpic is a great start. Check the youtube vids for details.
If you have a Dremmel, there are a range of pouring pads you can get that work excellently with Autosol and eliminates 90% of the elbow grease. If you don't have a Dremmel I'd buy one! There are also soft mops for Dremmels that will bring the final shine to better than new, also with a little autosol or gentler metal polish like Peeks. Blue off gloop is cheap on ebay and it keeps them shiney. I'm curious about the pickling though?
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Monsters don't hide under the bed, they sleep inside the shed Last edited by Jez900ie; 21-10-2019 at 09:18 PM.. |
21-10-2019, 09:40 PM | #7 |
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Ron, I take the whole lot off and use a polishing wheel. It then becomes a good excuse to replace the exhaust studs and gaskets
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21-10-2019, 10:10 PM | #8 |
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+1 for what Rollo says.
I get all my polishing stuff from https://www.metalpolishingsupplies.c...olishing-kits/ For scratches and deep corrosion start with a flap wheel, say 120, or 80 if it's a stubborn mark, then back to 120, then the polishing mop regime. I have a heavy duty 1/2" chuck drill that I can mount in a vice, that has enough power to spin the 6" mops. I've built up a collection of mops and soaps for alloy and steel too. I keep the same soap on any one mop. Get a Stainless Steel kit and follow the instructions, they work well. Taking the pipes off once a year does no harm. I swapped the nuts for S/S dome nuts and use plenty of coppaslip on the studs, swap the pinch bolt on the rear pipe for S/S too. I also keep a stock of the sealing washers as they are cheap. Once they are shiny they are a complete piece of Pistachio to keep clean. I have cast exhaust clamps which I use Graphite stove polish on (used to be Zebrite, not sure if that's still available). Dead easy to touch up mid season.
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; 21-10-2019 at 10:15 PM.. |
22-10-2019, 07:59 AM | #9 |
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Yep exhaust is off. I was thinking about getting a flap wheel and go the ‘flap wheel and autosol’ route.
I think that’s best option. |
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