UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Issue

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Old 30-04-2020, 05:21 PM   #16
Ron1000
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Took it apart and put back together. Easy peasy that.

So yeah looks like it’s leaking down past the bottom bolt, very very small. I’ve cleaned up the inside as it was gunked up pretty badly, don’t think it’s been off in 17.5k miles.

I’ll see if the cleaning helps and I’ll keep an eye on the fluid level. If at any point it starts drinking the stuff then it’s time for an Oberon clutch. I’ve already got it on my eBay watch list…might do it earlier too depending on mood, was after a new lid so I’d have to postpone that or buy both.
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Old 30-04-2020, 05:34 PM   #17
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Do it sooner rather than later as it will take the paint off your cover.
Mine had a weeping slave when I bought it, which I only discovered when the slave was hanging on the end of the hose beside the bike. It had already lifted the paint on the alternator cover. Clearly the PO hadn't noticed it.

If you think about it, it will also contaminate the chain goo with fluid, so it could fling onto the back wheel and other areas too.
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Old 30-04-2020, 05:36 PM   #18
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Lid shopping is awkward at the minute with not being able to try stuff on in a shop and I’m always dubious of ordering one online. When it’s possible if there is a Sportsbikeshop near you they let you test ride lids now so you can see what it’s like on the road rather than just hoping for the best. I nearly bought a shark spartan carbon gt to replace my spartan carbon before all this started and I was confined to no bike. Was a lovely thing and definitely the next step from what I have and I think it’s a great helmet. The main problem with the spartan carbon is the visor is awkward to change, I’ve broken 2, and the new guy model fixes that.
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Old 30-04-2020, 06:34 PM   #19
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Re lid. I’m buying same as I’ve got atm but different design. So size and that won’t be an issue. Just need to pay for it 😂
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Old 30-04-2020, 08:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1000 View Post
Re lid. I’m buying same as I’ve got atm but different design. So size and that won’t be an issue. Just need to pay for it 😂
You'd think.

I wore Arai RX7 helmets for years. Had 3 or 4 in a row and was looking for another, slightly different model as they update them every few years but essentially the same or so I thought.

Tried on the same size as always and couldn't even get it on my head, in the end I bought an X-lite.
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Old 30-04-2020, 09:25 PM   #21
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Funny you should say x-lite that’s my lid of choice.
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Old 30-04-2020, 09:34 PM   #22
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I was tempted by a carbon x lite just lack of sun visor and having to swap made me buy the shark. What is the xlite like? Was an 803 I think
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Old 30-04-2020, 09:35 PM   #23
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Swap visors to dark just to clarify
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Old 30-04-2020, 09:40 PM   #24
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For me personally I went from a decent level arai to an x-lite. Comfort and build is way better imo.

Everyone has different opinions tho. Head shapes, styles, kudos etc etc
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Old 30-04-2020, 11:09 PM   #25
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I was tempted by a carbon x lite just lack of sun visor and having to swap made me buy the shark. What is the xlite like? Was an 803 I think
I was a die-hard Arai user for many years but the new fit, or rather lack of fit, made me try the X lite carbon and I was impressed. It was a better fit, better made and so much lighter.

Of course Arai make carbon helmets but they are ridiculously expensive and not available to try on, whereas a carbon Xlite is much cheaper than even a standard Arai and, IMO is the better helmet.

As for the lack of sun visor, same as Arai which doesn't bother me. I wear a dark visor most of the time and swap over if riding in the dark and the Xlite visor is easier to swap than the Arai.

Mine is the 802RR ultra carbon, presumably the 803 is the newer model but it looks very similar.
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Old 01-05-2020, 07:33 AM   #26
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Clutch slave ordered. Got it in nice anodised black.
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Old 05-05-2020, 12:23 PM   #27
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Clutch slave arrived. All pretty straight forward to fit. However there seems to be two different approaches to priming it.

1. Prime before fitting by pouring in at the front.
2. Or in the banjo hole after fitting and before the banjo goes on.

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-05-2020, 12:29 PM   #28
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both, i’d (carefully... don’t spill fluid on painted surfaces) partially fill (remember the banjo bolt will displace some fluid) the slave after fitting, before connecting the banjo. You’ll still need to add fluid to the resrvoir and bleed any air out of the system, pre-filling will reduce the amount if air you have to get rid of.

if you do spill fluid wash it off with plenty of brake cleaner, if you wipe it it can take your paint with it.

Last edited by slob; 05-05-2020 at 12:37 PM..
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Old 05-05-2020, 01:02 PM   #29
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Cool. That was the plan.

I seen a vid of it getting filled in the front before fitting if you know what I mean. But I’ll go with the slob and Oberon approved method.
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Old 05-05-2020, 04:23 PM   #30
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Before and after





That’s a dry fit tho, so everything is loose and no fluid. Once the fluid turns up I’ll need to take it all off and do the bleed exercise. Easy enough tho.
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