UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » 1999 M600 has been sitting for 5 years - what to do?

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Old 03-03-2020, 07:17 AM   #61
jamminbmx
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You went mad and had to be restrained? Lol!
Are you living in my shed...not sure how you would know that otherwise!

On to the next thing...how do you lot get chains off? This chain is now really rusty as the clutch fluid leaked on it...buggered the paint on the swingarm too which is a shame. Anyway I don't have an angle grinder (and I would potentially blow myself up the amount of petrol that i poured everywhere yesterday)...can you hacksaw one off?
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Old 03-03-2020, 10:12 AM   #62
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A hacksaw is unlikely to work as the plates are too hard and it is not that easy to hold it still or in a position to get a decent cut stroke.
You can get a 110mm angle grinder for about £25
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corded-El.../274093166225?
or Screwfix also about £25

and either just grind the rivet heads off or get some 1mm (£6 for 5) cutting discs and cut straight through the plates.
If you are worried about petrol fumes just ventilate the space for a decent period of time until the smell is not really noticeable,
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Old 03-03-2020, 02:54 PM   #63
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You might be able to push the soft links through with a chain breaker tool but you may still need to grind the heads off them first.
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Old 03-03-2020, 03:26 PM   #64
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while an angle grinder is quicker, a dremel (if you have one) will get the the heads of the pins ok, then a well placed tap with a chisel to remove the outer plate.
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Old 03-03-2020, 03:29 PM   #65
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If you don’t have a grinder but you do have a cordless drill you could get an Arbor adapter to take a grinding disc- it’s a little slow going but will grind the pins enough for a breaker tool to push them through. Needless to say, wear goggles/safety glasses!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F273520091558

Alternatively if you really don’t want to grind the pins down and you have a rear paddock stand and a means of unloading the rear suspension (I use a ladder and tie down straps for this) you can detach the suspension hoop and with the rear wheel pushed all the way forward, just take the chain out sideways- the beauty of the trellis frame coupled with the swing arm attached to the engine case.

Then while you’re there you can also clean and re-grease the linkages and/or replace the rod end bearings in the hoop.



Just had a thought- if you have standard footrests you’ll also have to remove the near-side one in order to get the chain off without splitting it.
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Old 03-03-2020, 07:19 PM   #66
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Cheers for all the ideas guys! Gonna try and find a mate with a grinder then. Saves adding to my vast “only used once” power tool collection ��
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Old 03-03-2020, 07:31 PM   #67
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Grinding a pin is my preferred method but remember you’ll still need a chain breaker/joiner if you haven’t already got one.
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Old 03-03-2020, 07:37 PM   #68
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Grinding a pin is my preferred method but remember you’ll still need a chain breaker/joiner if you haven’t already got one.
Anyone use a split link? Massive manshed jealousy btw!
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Old 03-03-2020, 07:54 PM   #69
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The stepladders are nothing to do with the bike btw, there were just some cobwebs that needed cleaning!
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Old 03-03-2020, 08:45 PM   #70
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Anyone use a split link?
not on anything much bigger than 250cc, unless it’s just to get to a bike shop where you can get a proper rivet link put in.
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Old 03-03-2020, 09:26 PM   #71
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What he said. I would use a split link for emergencies only.
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Old 03-03-2020, 09:33 PM   #72
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Anyone use a split link? Massive manshed jealousy btw!
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The stepladders are nothing to do with the bike btw, there were just some cobwebs that needed cleaning!
Ha Ha! Thanks- After the Maid's been in to tidy up a bit and fill up the cookie jar




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not on anything much bigger than 250cc, unless it’s just to get to a bike shop where you can get a proper rivet link put in.
I tend to agree with you Rob, I do use one on my race bike but it's only 28bhp and even then I lock-wire it, but to be honest I was never fast enough to worry changing gearing too often. It would be interesting what people racing larger capacity classic bikes do regarding them though- maybe just have a ready supply of soft links to use when fitting a longer or shorter chain?

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Old 03-03-2020, 10:04 PM   #73
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Are you living in my shed...not sure how you would know that otherwise!

On to the next thing...how do you lot get chains off? This chain is now really rusty as the clutch fluid leaked on it...buggered the paint on the swingarm too which is a shame. Anyway I don't have an angle grinder (and I would potentially blow myself up the amount of petrol that i poured everywhere yesterday)...can you hacksaw one off?
I hack sawed off a renthal gold chain took about 10 mins was quite easy in the end. However the correct way is to buy a good quality chain breaker I can personally vouch for motion pro pbr ones. I bought that after the hacksaw stage…long story…and it is superb. I done lots of test breaks and it’s really impressive. Also does the rivet on part too obvs
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Old 04-03-2020, 08:44 AM   #74
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At the power output of this bike I would say a split link will be fine. Also if you don't have the expertise and tools to rivet link a new chain successfully and safely then a split link connection will be a better connection than a badly riveted one. ( I use myself as an example here although I have got a bit better with practice ! )
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Old 23-03-2020, 08:24 AM   #75
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So I took it for a test ride yesterday and the clutch is slipping really badly.

I pull the clutch and put it into gear, let go and it moves forward slowly but loads of slip, then something clicks and there is no drive at all. Pull the clutch in and release and off i crawl again. Let it warm up and no difference.

Any ideas? I have the Oberon installed.

Cheers!
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