Clutch tools and fork install height. 1000Sie

[dacs]

Clutch q. I've seen tools on a certain auction site for locking the clutch hub and (separate tool) drum using plates that fix to the clutch cover screw holes. Although I can understand how they work, I'm dubious about transmiting the torque levels required, especially for the hub, into the casing. Has anyone tried these, or formed an opinion on their viability?
Fork install q. my (German) workshop manual shows a measurement of 296mm for the distance from the top of the fork tube nut to the underside of the lower yoke. I'd have to ride without handlebars to accommodate the fork tops/adjusters, so something's amiss. They are currently showing 3mm above the top yoke, and I have seen nothing on the bike to suggest this has changed since it left the factory, can anyone help with an achievable setting, please? (also have a Haynes manual, just says to re-install to the measurement taken when removing, which sort of misses the point)

[Darren69]

I would be wary of those type of clutch tools that bolt to the cases and I've heard of cases breaking in some cases. They're really not designed with that kind of strength in mind. Better to use the ones with the long handle that rest on the floor as you can't break that so easy!

Don't know about fork measurement but won't that type of measurement depend on the type of fork you have? I'd be inclined to measure the amount through the top yoke and 3mm sounds about right. Mine has been set to standard so if you've Showa adjustables in the later non hoop frame the same as me then I can check what they are on mine when I get back.

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Darren69

I would be wary of those type of clutch tools that bolt to the cases and I've heard of cases breaking in some cases. They're really not designed with that kind of strength in mind. Better to use the ones with the long handle that rest on the floor as you can't break that so easy!

Due to it looking easier I tried a plastic bolt-to-the-casing clutch holder, it snapped like a carrot before I got close to the required torque.

I've since gone back to the 'tennis-bat' style which does the job perfectly.

[Stevedesmo]

I’ve used the Laser one with total success, less than a tenner on eBay and no issues at all

[Dukedesmo]

Originally Posted by Stevedesmo

I’ve used the Laser one with total success, less than a tenner on eBay and no issues at all

That's the one I broke - maybe I got a a duff one?

[Darren69]

Be thankful it gave up before pulling a big chunk out of your clutch case!

[Mr Gazza]

Dacs and I have discussed this, and my Ducati Sie manual also states 296 as the measurement from fork top to the underside of the bottom yoke.
As Dacs says there is not enough room beneath the handlebars for this setting, it would produce 37mm above the top yoke and then the adjuster assembly on top of that.

My own M900Sie adjustable Showas are set at 279, which produces a 20mm projection above the top yoke... I'm not claiming that's the correct setting but it works and it's about as far as it will go without fouling the bars. (Even with the extra tall Sie risers.)

I propose that this 296mm figure is a much repeated typo and that it should have always been 269. This would produce a conservative 10mm above the top yoke, which sounds about right as a starting point to me.

Dacs… Don't use a mickey mouse locking tool... I'll be over with the heavy duty gear as soon as you tell me you have the new parts to fit and fresh cake..

[Darren69]

I just checked mine and it looks like about 2 to 3 mm through the top yoke, couldnt find my steel rule. I took a picture and as soon as i figure our how to post from my phone i will.

[slob]

I've used the ones that bolt to the case, similar to (but slightly different)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-CLUTC...sAAOSw0YVcUFve
without a problem, even on Magnesium cases, maybe I've just been lucky.
You do need to be careful where mine engages, as it will try to push the steel reinforcing ring down the basket if you don't pay attention to where it fits.
As others have said, I'd avoid the Laser ones, they're cheapo ABS, especially since the long handle ones are now available relatively cheaply.

I have renthal bars on mine, which are wider in the middle than stock and require the forks to be pushed down a little to clear the preload adjusters, however handling seems happy with Ohlins shock in the back.

[Darren69]

[Darren69]

You can really tell how much ive backed off the preload by the corrosion. Ive not ridden it again since but my reason was after fitting Hyperpro springs it was just way too hard, backed off the damping about 3 clicks too. Anyone got settings for Hyperpro springs?

[dacs]

Thanks all for the advice, on balance it looks as if the long-handle jobs are the way to go and I expect to take up Mr Gazza's kind offer shortly, the local cake shop has offered to open up it's Brexit stockpile warehouse.

Darren69 - thanks for adding the photo, looks just same clearance as mine. It steers well enough, so I reckon it is probably factory, I will leave as is until the important jobs are done.
Cheers

[utopia]

Originally Posted by Darren69

You can really tell how much ive backed off the preload by the corrosion. Ive not ridden it again since but my reason was after fitting Hyperpro springs it was just way too hard, backed off the damping about 3 clicks too. Anyone got settings for Hyperpro springs?

Just thinking about the hyperpro (ie presumably, progressive) springs .......
I suppose its different preloading a progressive spring compared to a linear one as you would effectively be eliminating some of the softer initial spring rate, and thus changing the overall characteristic of the spring.
With linear, the rate remains constant and is unaffected by preload.
I've not had occasion to consider that before but now that I do, it seems logical.

Maybe in an ideal world, you would have a correctly matched progressive spring and need little or no preload at all.

Also (assuming that the progressive springs are correctly matched in the first place) I would imagine that sag should be increased a little.
I suspect that the best way to set them up might be by using fork travel indicators to assess their maximum deflection at full bump under prevailing riding conditions.

Sorry for the slight hijack but you seem to have covered the main subject now.

[Darren69]

I suppose its different preloading a progressive spring compared to a linear one as you would effectively be eliminating some of the softer initial spring rate, and thus changing the overall characteristic of the spring.

Sorry for the slight hijack but you seem to have covered the main subject now.[/QUOTE]

No, thats ok, its validated my logic in backing it off and given me some food for thought.