UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Cans, Tyres, Brakes, etc. » Shock length 1100 evo

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Old 09-06-2019, 12:28 PM   #31
Rrawlings
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As you can see we’ve cut the shock mount all the way through and he head of the bolt is stuck in the swinging arm. Before the drill comes out does the cap head sit on a shoulder on the hole in the swinging arm or does the cap head go up to he bush in the shock. Thanks in advance
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:08 PM   #32
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Good to see you're making progress, Ryan.

I don't know for sure but I'd say the bolt tightens against the shock bush. I'm basing this on the fact that, when you drop the shock's lower mount into the swinging arm there is slight sideways play. When you tighten the bolt, that play disappears. I don't think there's enough flex in the arm to take up that play so I'm thinking that the bolt must bear directly on the shock mount itself.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:16 PM   #33
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Thanks Vince will keep updating on progress
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:29 PM   #34
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I see you've split what's left of the shock mount, Ryan, so does the cut go completely through the bolt shaft too? If so, have you tried the impact wrench again? There's no thread on the nearside so the head must "only" be held by corrosion, which perhaps the impact wrench might overcome?
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:33 PM   #35
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PS if you can wait until tomorrow, I could remove my shock and see exactly how the lower bolt attaches.
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Old 09-06-2019, 04:50 PM   #36
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It’s out!
The bolt was cut in half using a combo of angle grinder and hair hack saw. The bolt head was still totally stuck so drilled into this carefully to remove the thread just in case the bolt head located onto a collar on the swing arm. Once this was out it looked like photo 1 however the bolt head was still stuck only now with a hole in it!
More heat and a drift that was just smaller than the hole in the swing arm and a few swift taps brought it out.
The bolt thread left unscrewed with fingers!
So now need a new bolt from Ducati and we can resume putting it back together. Will get a spring ordered later and take it back apart once that comes (spent a fortune on my other Italian mode of transportation after ignoring parking sensors and reversing my Giulietta into the wife’s Focus. Alfa bumper replaced and not a mark on the Ford)

Thanks again for all the help.



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Old 09-06-2019, 04:51 PM   #37
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Photos posted opposite to what I thought
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Old 09-06-2019, 05:10 PM   #38
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Nicely done, Ryan. I'll bet it was a relief when the thread just wound out.

At least it should be plain sailing from hereon in - as the Haynes manuals always say "reassembly is the reverse of removal...!"

By the way, the part no. of the screw is 77915041A tightened to 42Nm the same as the top mount after applying molybdenum grease.
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:19 PM   #39
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This might be of use to you, Ryan.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=51038
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:56 PM   #40
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Cheers Vince. I’ll print the Torque settings out and get them laminated and on the garage wall where the old Daytona 675 ones currently live. I owe you a couple of pints it’s a shame we are several hundred miles away.

I honestly thought that it would be far more traumatic than how things ended especially when the impact gun snapped the hex key. I just can’t wait to get it back together again and get back out.
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Old 10-06-2019, 05:29 AM   #41
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Don't forget to use plenty of copper slip on the new bolt when you fit the shock back on.
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Old 10-06-2019, 06:56 AM   #42
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Which is best then the molybdenum grease or copper slip? I’ve used copper slip on everything for years and to be fair it’s always been a comment my dad and I make to each other when ever we build or rebuild something “hope you put copper slip on everything so the next man doesn’t struggle like I have”
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:45 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrawlings View Post
Which is best then the molybdenum grease or copper slip? I’ve used copper slip on everything for years and to be fair it’s always been a comment my dad and I make to each other when ever we build or rebuild something “hope you put copper slip on everything so the next man doesn’t struggle like I have”
I always use copperslip because the bolt is prone to getting water along it’s length and the grease can be washed our where as Copperslip is harder to wash out due to the copper particles being trapped in the threads.
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Old 10-06-2019, 09:57 AM   #44
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If you look on that torque setting sheet I referred to, Ryan, the recommended grease (unless otherwise stated) is molybdenum disulphide and the torque settings are calculated with that grease applied where appropriate.

I don't know what the comparative lubrication properties of copper and moly grease are but one of the benefits of moly grease is that, even when the gooey bit is washed away or squeezed or dried out, the molybdenum additive remains on the metal surfaces to provide lubrication, a bit like rubbing a pencil on a squeaky hinge.
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Old 11-06-2019, 03:31 PM   #45
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The bolt has arrived in the post today so will get things put back tomorrow or Thursday then hopefully the rain stops this weekend and I can go for a ride
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