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Old 14-12-2023, 09:58 AM   #1
jerry
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S4 No spark ????

After 4 years off the road and full rebuild big day to day,, put in new battery check all lights ok , horn OK , indicators OK ,, starter turns nicely ,, im just checking for spark and TPS adjustment no fuel in yet ,

but totally no sparks on both plugs , no volts at all tried spare plugs and coils zilch , circuit has new crank sensor and all the sockets and plugs replaced ,, wiring all good ,,

now im baffled , when the bike came off the road in 2019 it would not start due to poor connections in loom in ignition circuit and failed connector all replaced but it did spark then ,,but not fire up since then its all had a slow full refurb now looks new

cant even get 5v at TPS, or 12v off plug leads and injectors ??? ,, JP diag not telling me much either

the whole injection system has been serviced too and tested on bench

I have 2 ECU standard and DP no difference .fuses ok immobiliser is OK

I fear I may have to get it to someone with a mathesis but i really dont trust the Thai mechanics ????
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Last edited by jerry; 14-12-2023 at 10:38 AM..
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Old 15-12-2023, 06:09 AM   #2
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OK now got TPS correct 150mv with throttle fully closed , but still NO Spark or volts at injectors ??
fuel pump is ok ,,

so Im baffled all relays checked ok , fuses ok all wiring is correct ,, only thing im not sure is Crank sensor as its brand new but would that stop injectors and sparks ??
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Old 15-12-2023, 12:34 PM   #3
Darren69
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Injector relay?
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Old 15-12-2023, 01:00 PM   #4
Mr Gazza
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Appreciate that you're not asking for help here, just telling us about your mess for our entertainment, but..

You need to check that all the connectors are actually connecting. I had dumb connector issues on my 900 when I first bought it as a non runner.

Where you can get at cables either side of a connector you can gently probe through the insulation with a modelling pin and test for continuity across the connector on like coloured cables.
Where you can't get to both sides of the connector, as in the injectors, you can squirt a little switch cleaner into the female part of the plug, (less likely to make a short.) and then see if it works. chances are that it will stop working again as soon as the switch cleaner evaporates, but at least you have found the culprit by then.

There you go, free advice and you didn't even say please..
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Old 15-12-2023, 01:43 PM   #5
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Just re-read your post so if both relays check out then maybe a crank sensor issue but if you really have no power to the injectors then crank sensor won't matter? Did you do the JPDiag injector test and they rattle ok? Whatever is controlling power to the injectors is the real issue if not the relay then it must be wiring fail somewhere..
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Old 16-12-2023, 02:18 AM   #6
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thanks guys I appreciate any tips ...
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Old 16-12-2023, 07:32 AM   #7
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OK it does not help that my JPdiag leads are fried ,, I had lent them to a guy 3 years ago and somehow they are all fused , so my diagnostics are useless and i cant get any here ,, I cant diagnose any more all I know is .......

No Power to injectors or coils cant test new CPS either all i have now is multimeter but I have checked all the wiring , and connectors and they all buzz out correct , also fitted spare CPU but no difference

Basicly I dont know what to do , nearest people with a Mathesis are 100 miles .

My health has gone bad again too can barely walk , trapped in house ,,,going round the bend
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Old 16-12-2023, 08:55 AM   #8
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Have you tried switching the 2 relays over? See if the fuel pump still runs. There's really very little without the diag leads really. Check fuses but I guess you did that already?
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Old 16-12-2023, 10:00 AM   #9
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May not be relevant but my 916 melted the fuse holder (and part of the wiring around it) to the fuel pump relay and although it was actually still working, it wouldn't have done for long.

For the record 916 have 2 underseat relays: 1 for the pump & 1 for the injection so the melted pump fuse wouldn't have affected the injection and the injection system will be drawing less current than the pump but could something similar have happened?
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Old 16-12-2023, 12:28 PM   #10
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The fuse holder and wiring are all in A1 condition ,power at all fuse positions , and fuses all good both relays work so im frustrated , im trying to find someone with a van to take it to the Duacti guy in Bangkok who I do trust he has a Mathesis
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Old 17-12-2023, 11:45 AM   #11
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Shot to nothing. Does it need the dash to run? i.e. my old Honda does not need a dash, as in can be completely removed. My street triple does, as in plugged in, powered up and recognised by the ecu over canbus. (never tried the evo).

Don’t know if it’s something like that! dash powers up but lost it’s code to the ecu/not recognised?!?! Assuming it’s on canbus.

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Old 19-12-2023, 05:57 AM   #12
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Yes Ron Dash is part of immobiliser and sensor system but its all OK

its something to do with coils , Crank sensor and injectors can only be diagnosed with a MATHESIS unit from Ducati even the Ducati factory workshop manual says that for these items every thing else can be traced and checked with multimeter
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Old 19-12-2023, 06:18 PM   #13
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It's gotta be crank sensor since it would be unlikely that both coils fail, unless it's power to both that's failed? Idk I guess even if the crank sensor was good if it wasn't gapped right they'rd still be no spark?
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Old 22-12-2023, 11:45 AM   #14
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Darren you maybe correct i gapped the new one to the same gap as old damaged one which was 0.06 mm the old one also had no shim but i had to fit a shim on new one as it was longer so it might be OUT OF ADJUSTMENT BUT WOULD ITS ALSO AFFECT THE INJECTORS

bugger if it is that as all the oil and coolnnt has to come out

JUST HAD ANOTHER LOOK AND THE AIR GAP SEEMS MINIMAL ??? THERE IS ONE 0.6MM SHIM IN AND i HAVE A FO 0,6 AND 0,8 SHIMS THE ACTUAL CRANK SENSOR IS 5MM LONGER THAN THE OLD BUSTED ONE SO MAY NEED A FEW SHIMS ????
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Old 22-12-2023, 04:04 PM   #15
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Yes it's used by ECU as a timing/speed sensor. I'm not sure why the new one you have is longer but if the bike never ran with it then it's likely to be the culprit I would say.

You shouldn't need to drop the coolant and the oil level sb below the crank sensor so its easy to remove, just one bolt.

I do have a spare one that Mark replaced from my S4R when he was having issues which it wasn't so afaik it's good. I'd need to find it and check part number etc but I believe it should be the same as the S4. I can send it to you if you need to try it but would like it back if possible once you're up an running so I have a spare. So let me know.

Your best bet is to get diag on the injector function so you can rule that out but if that is diificult then you're welcome to try mine.
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