Front sprocket & clutch actuator rod

makemdan · 09-10-2020, 02:14 PM

So I've started to replace the front sprocket on my 1100 evo and removed the clutch slave for access, The actuator rod came out with the cylinder and won't insert all the way. I guess I need to strip the side casings but hopefully not a full strip down. Any advice please?

slob · 09-10-2020, 02:21 PM

You shouldn’t have to strip anything, unless the evo has a peculiarity I’m unaware of. I’m sure Luddite will be along in a minute with sage advice.

edit: the evo has an anti-rotation pin on the pushrod, so you might need to rotate it to align it with the slot in the slave cylinder piston.
Other than that, check the condition of the two o-rings on the pushrod, if they show no signs of damage it’s probably worth giving them a wipe with some clean engine oil or a little light grease, you may feel a little resistance as you push the rod in past the o-rings but you shouldn’t need a great deal of force. If they’re at all torn, thry shpuld be replaced.
If you’ve inadvertantly pulled the clutch lever with the slave off, you will need to push the piston in to refit the slave cylinder.

Ron1000 · 09-10-2020, 03:01 PM

I put an Oberon CS on mine recently. Other than the anti rotation pin there should not be anything to do or need stripped off.

Also I done my sprockets and chain over winter and the front sprocket definitely slides past it.

Luddite · 09-10-2020, 03:28 PM

^^^^
What Rob and Ron said!

Luddite · 09-10-2020, 04:14 PM

For reference, here's the relevant page from the workshop manual (it's a screenshot so I hope it's clear enough to read).

Mind you, I usually just leave the anti-rotation insert in the slave cylinder and then line up the rod by eye. I suppose, if the anti-rotation pin is loose, then you'd need to reassemble by the book to stop it dropping out, since it engages with the insert in the vertical position. (Although a spot of grease would be enough to hold it in place.)

makemdan · 12-10-2020, 10:49 AM

Thanks fellas, went into mild state of panic when the rod came out. I removed the slave cylinder out of habit but having reinstalled I can see it wasn't necessary, it's now back in place. Just waiting for a new soft link from wemoto to complete the job. TPS reset to follow then road test before the weather fouls any more. Forks and Ecu remap next and maybe a new shock in the new year. Anyone used a nitro shock before?

slob · 15-10-2020, 04:30 PM

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Regina-52...-/352989650626

any help?

makemdan · 15-10-2020, 07:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slob

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Regina-52...-/352989650626

any help?

Not sure tbh, spec for the Evo says Regina ZR PK, not sure how significant the letters are. I'll pop down to my local bike shop and see what they have in stock I think

slob · 15-10-2020, 09:11 PM

well spotted, ZRP is a sport chain, ZRT is a road/touring chain
https://www.reginachain.net/business.../professional/
no idea what the K is (OEM maybe?)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/27015061511

makemdan · 23-10-2020, 09:55 PM

So I got hold of a Regina link and it fits BUT my chain tool can't burr the rivets. In fact the rivets have flattened the spike on the tool! This has been used on numerous did chins. Now that I have fitted the 14t sprocket and refitted the chain it is at the limit of adjustment. Rideable but no further adjustment so I will be going for a new set. I found a site that deals with _Regina chains and it suggests that the Regina tool (I assume its a drift) should be given a "sharp tap with a hammer". I think perhaps it'll need a good belt with a hammer. All I can think of is some sort of drift with a concave face that will burr the rivet edges and make the link safe o I wonder if the link is not "soft"

Luddite · 27-10-2020, 10:20 AM

Frustrating! I've never used Regina, only DID or AFAM, but I've never had any problems flaring the link pins - maybe it's Regina's way of selling their own chain tools?!

Hope you get it sorted soon.

makemdan · 27-10-2020, 11:33 AM

Agreed...frustrating! The DID system is simple and effective.

The Regina is as shown in this link

https://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical...inToolUse.html

How to complicate a simple task!

I'll use a fencing maul to use as an "anvil" and use a generic drift to secure the rivets. I only need to use the bike for a couple of hundred miles following TPS reset and then its off the road. I'll be buying a new DID set with an oversize rear sprocket ready for next year

Its kinda strange but all this "hassle" is what I missed when I had the CBR

Luddite · 27-10-2020, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by makemdan

I'll be buying a new DID set with an oversize rear sprocket ready for next year.

Don't forget, if you're going up on the rear, you'll need a longer chain. A 42 tooth rear sprocket (with standard 15 front) will need a 106 link chain (up 2 links from the OE 104).

Ron1000 · 27-10-2020, 12:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luddite

Don't forget, if you're going up on the rear, you'll need a longer chain. A 42 tooth rear sprocket (with standard 15 front) will need a 106 link chain (up 2 links from the OE 104).

Luddite as ever is correct here. I done it over winter 2019. 106 is perfect amount of links.

Darren69 · 28-10-2020, 12:53 PM

Is the Supersprox just the sprocket, albeit in 2 parts? The main advantage of the Renthal is that it replaces the standard Ducati carrier as well as the sprocket which will prevent the cush drives destroying the hub, as they are prone to do with the SSA bikes.

You can also just change the sprocket without removing the wheel and the hub assembly. handy if you do track days or just want an easier life.

The Renthal sprockets are much cheaper too. You can buy 2 or 3 for the price of a standard ducati one.

09-10-2020, 02:14 PM	#1
makemdan Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: West Boldon Bike: M1100evo Posts: 55	Front sprocket & clutch actuator rod So I've started to replace the front sprocket on my 1100 evo and removed the clutch slave for access, The actuator rod came out with the cylinder and won't insert all the way. I guess I need to strip the side casings but hopefully not a full strip down. Any advice please?

09-10-2020, 02:21 PM	#2
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	You shouldn’t have to strip anything, unless the evo has a peculiarity I’m unaware of. I’m sure Luddite will be along in a minute with sage advice. edit: the evo has an anti-rotation pin on the pushrod, so you might need to rotate it to align it with the slot in the slave cylinder piston. Other than that, check the condition of the two o-rings on the pushrod, if they show no signs of damage it’s probably worth giving them a wipe with some clean engine oil or a little light grease, you may feel a little resistance as you push the rod in past the o-rings but you shouldn’t need a great deal of force. If they’re at all torn, thry shpuld be replaced. If you’ve inadvertantly pulled the clutch lever with the slave off, you will need to push the piston in to refit the slave cylinder. Last edited by slob; 09-10-2020 at 03:02 PM.. Reason: checked parts book

27-10-2020, 11:33 AM	#12
makemdan Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: West Boldon Bike: M1100evo Posts: 55	Agreed...frustrating! The DID system is simple and effective. The Regina is as shown in this link https://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical...inToolUse.html How to complicate a simple task! I'll use a fencing maul to use as an "anvil" and use a generic drift to secure the rivets. I only need to use the bike for a couple of hundred miles following TPS reset and then its off the road. I'll be buying a new DID set with an oversize rear sprocket ready for next year Its kinda strange but all this "hassle" is what I missed when I had the CBR Last edited by makemdan; 27-10-2020 at 11:39 AM..

28-10-2020, 12:53 PM	#15
Darren69 Transmaniacon MOC Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sutton In Ashfield Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 6,022	Is the Supersprox just the sprocket, albeit in 2 parts? The main advantage of the Renthal is that it replaces the standard Ducati carrier as well as the sprocket which will prevent the cush drives destroying the hub, as they are prone to do with the SSA bikes. You can also just change the sprocket without removing the wheel and the hub assembly. handy if you do track days or just want an easier life. The Renthal sprockets are much cheaper too. You can buy 2 or 3 for the price of a standard ducati one. __________________ Roast Beef Monster! Termignoni and Bucci - Italian for pipe and slippers! S4 Fogarty, S4R 07T, 748, Series 1 Mirage Last edited by Darren69; 28-10-2020 at 01:00 PM..

09-10-2020, 03:01 PM	#3
Ron1000 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Livingston Bike: M1100evo Posts: 863	I put an Oberon CS on mine recently. Other than the anti rotation pin there should not be anything to do or need stripped off. Also I done my sprockets and chain over winter and the front sprocket definitely slides past it.

09-10-2020, 03:28 PM	#4
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	^^^^ What Rob and Ron said!

09-10-2020, 04:14 PM	#5
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	For reference, here's the relevant page from the workshop manual (it's a screenshot so I hope it's clear enough to read). Mind you, I usually just leave the anti-rotation insert in the slave cylinder and then line up the rod by eye. I suppose, if the anti-rotation pin is loose, then you'd need to reassemble by the book to stop it dropping out, since it engages with the insert in the vertical position. (Although a spot of grease would be enough to hold it in place.)

12-10-2020, 10:49 AM	#6
makemdan Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: West Boldon Bike: M1100evo Posts: 55	Thanks fellas, went into mild state of panic when the rod came out. I removed the slave cylinder out of habit but having reinstalled I can see it wasn't necessary, it's now back in place. Just waiting for a new soft link from wemoto to complete the job. TPS reset to follow then road test before the weather fouls any more. Forks and Ecu remap next and maybe a new shock in the new year. Anyone used a nitro shock before?

15-10-2020, 04:30 PM	#7
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Regina-52...-/352989650626 any help?

15-10-2020, 09:11 PM	#9
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,710	well spotted, ZRP is a sport chain, ZRT is a road/touring chain https://www.reginachain.net/business.../professional/ no idea what the K is (OEM maybe?) https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/27015061511

23-10-2020, 09:55 PM	#10
makemdan Registered User Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: West Boldon Bike: M1100evo Posts: 55	So I got hold of a Regina link and it fits BUT my chain tool can't burr the rivets. In fact the rivets have flattened the spike on the tool! This has been used on numerous did chins. Now that I have fitted the 14t sprocket and refitted the chain it is at the limit of adjustment. Rideable but no further adjustment so I will be going for a new set. I found a site that deals with _Regina chains and it suggests that the Regina tool (I assume its a drift) should be given a "sharp tap with a hammer". I think perhaps it'll need a good belt with a hammer. All I can think of is some sort of drift with a concave face that will burr the rivet edges and make the link safe o I wonder if the link is not "soft"

27-10-2020, 10:20 AM	#11
Luddite Registered User Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Southampton Bike: M1100evo Posts: 2,465	Frustrating! I've never used Regina, only DID or AFAM, but I've never had any problems flaring the link pins - maybe it's Regina's way of selling their own chain tools?! Hope you get it sorted soon.