UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Engines, Clutch, Gears » Engine verrrrry smokey

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Old 22-08-2018, 10:12 PM   #1
Big Daft Lad
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Engine verrrrry smokey

I think I've got a serious problem. Basically the bike has sat for 9 years and I've been trying to recommission it. I did the usual stuff, cleaned the carbs, new plugs, oil, belts etc. The bike is running OK'ish but after a few minutes starts to smoke heavily from the exhausts. To me it looks and smells like oil rather than petrol.

So other than stuck piston rings is there anything else it could be?
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Old 22-08-2018, 10:14 PM   #2
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Valve stem oil seals but I’d go for piston rings
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Old 22-08-2018, 10:24 PM   #3
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Hmm, thought so but I hoped not.

Is there anything worth trying before pulling the barrels off?
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Old 22-08-2018, 11:07 PM   #4
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Hmm, thought so but I hoped not.

Is there anything worth trying before pulling the barrels off?
You could try a leak-down test, which would indicate if the exhaust valve, intake valve or piston rings weren't sealing properly. Any good workshop will be able to do this. I remember Practical Sportsbikes had a feature on how to make your own leak-down tester but I can't find it at the moment.
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Old 23-08-2018, 10:01 AM   #5
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Have you checked your air box? Oil in it? So much that it pours into the intake?

Don't know how likely, but it has happened. In your case because (?) the crank case breather valve and/or breather tank is clogged....

Easy enough to check.
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Old 23-08-2018, 11:16 AM   #6
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My Monster is very smoky and although it has plenty of compression and still runs well I know it's got a bore wear problem (recently replated bores failing) and so I'm planning to fix it over the winter.

But I inherited a lawnmower from my Dad which had been stood for some time and it was hugely smoky and ran very poorly with little compression. I suspected stuck rings and so filled the cylinder with various cocktails; diesel, 2-stroke oil, WD-40 etc. and after a couple of days it was fine and now runs like a champ.

N.B if you do anything like this, don't forget to change the oil when you're done.
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Old 23-08-2018, 12:19 PM   #7
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OK thanks for the suggestions. I'm planning to do the following for taking the engine apart:

1 - Check the valve clearances then do a compression test.
2 - Check the crank case breather valve and breather tank.
3 - If there is low compression and the breather is OK, try filling the cylinders with some diesel.
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Old 23-08-2018, 03:54 PM   #8
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Redex might be better than diesel?
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Old 23-08-2018, 06:20 PM   #9
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Redex might be better than diesel?
Possibly, I basically used a bit of everything I'd got to break free any corrosion as the cylinder & sump had flooded with old petrol (looked more like water).

I had some leftover 2-stroke mix fuel that I ran it on for a while to get nice & oily, seemed to do the trick.
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Old 23-08-2018, 06:41 PM   #10
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50/50 Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid.. Pour some in and top up untill it stops leaking past the rings.
Once the level stays constant the rings have popped back out and pretty much all the gaps filled with oil.
The acetone loosens and eventually melts the gunge in the ring grooves and the oil is loose enough and carried with the acetone to lubricate.
This is a bit of a cheapo plus gas mix, just a bit more aggressive.

Best is to get the pistons out then clean the grooves, scotch-brite works well as it isn't too abrasive. The rigs do get more brittle with age but I'd guess would be OK.
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Old 23-08-2018, 09:37 PM   #11
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50/50 Acetone and Automatic transmission fluid.. Pour some in and top up untill it stops leaking past the rings.
Once the level stays constant the rings have popped back out and pretty much all the gaps filled with oil.
The acetone loosens and eventually melts the gunge in the ring grooves and the oil is loose enough and carried with the acetone to lubricate.
This is a bit of a cheapo plus gas mix, just a bit more aggressive.

Best is to get the pistons out then clean the grooves, scotch-brite works well as it isn't too abrasive. The rigs do get more brittle with age but I'd guess would be OK.
Obviously the problem needs sorting but I thought Acetone was bad for rubber, Nitrile, Viton and Silicone.

Perhaps for the time it is in there it's not enough to cause a problem but I did a little search and this is what I found on the Web:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandard...SC=Acetone#mat
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Old 23-08-2018, 10:15 PM   #12
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Clutch and brake cleaner would probably be kinder to soluble plastics in the engine, but personally I would stick with Reddex. It's always been the "go to" stuff for stuck rings and top end lubrication.
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Old 24-08-2018, 10:57 AM   #13
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OK, maybe I'll try Redex first then the acetone/ATF if that doesn't help things. I really don't want to get into an engine out project just now as I've got enough on plate with other mechanical projects. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 24-08-2018, 11:46 AM   #14
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I've used Parafin before to un-seize an engine before, and it had been underwater for some time.
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Old 24-08-2018, 12:26 PM   #15
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personally I would stick with Reddex. It's always been the "go to" stuff for stuck rings .
What Mr G said

But I'd imagine you'll need to contemplate changing the valve seals reasonably soon.

It can be done in frame on an early Monster.
Just fill the cylinders with a soft rope to hold the valves up whilst you move the valve lifters etc to one side and change the seals.

Although it's that easy to lift the heads off, what with there being no gaskets etc, I'd do it on the bench

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