UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Mods & How To's » Alternator cover removal

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Old 07-08-2019, 05:30 PM   #1
Luddite
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Alternator cover removal

As I mentioned in my other thread about my broken gearchange return spring... http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...d.php?p=567800

As well as access to the gear change mechanism, the alternator cover also has to be removed to get to the alternator (obviously!), or if you want to change the flywheel or remove the starter motor. So I thought I'd post up a step-by-step guide to removing the cover, which someone might find useful in future.

You will need...

The following hex bits:

4mm
5mm

8mm socket (for sidestand switch).

Silicone gasket remover and/or suitable scraper.

Threebond 1215 (Loctite equivalent 5910)

Oil drain pan.

Alternator cover puller. Note - if you use a Laser 5334 on a later model Monster like the 696/796/1100 you will need to modify it slightly. The old Monster's inspection cover sat on a machined surface that was proud of the alternator cover, while the newer Monsters have the machined surfaces recessed below the surface.



So, if you try to use the Laser tool on the newer cover, it will sit on the painted surface and the screws will be too short. To adapt it, I've added a couple of 12mm x Ø15mm spacers so the tool now sits on the machined surface and is clear of the paint. I've also used longer M6 mounting screws (40mm) and M10 centre screw (70mm).

Here's a comparison showing the tool on an old-style cover, then on my 1100 (bearing on the painted surface) and finally with spacers and longer screws.



Since the alternator runs in oil, before you pop the cover you'll need to drain the oil (M12 - 20Nm). Alternatively, if you can do it safely, leaning the bike to the right by 20° or so will allow you to remove the cover without draining the oil.

Disconnect the gear change mechanism from the shaft (1 x M6 - 10Nm) after marking the correct position of the arm. Clean up the splines to help protect the seal, especially if you're not planning to change it.

Remove the sidestand switch (1 x M6 - 5Nm + threadlock).

Remove the sprocket cover (2 x M6 - 6Nm) and clutch slave (3 x M6 - 10Nm) and withdraw the clutch pushrod. Be careful to retain the anti-rotation pin as it can easily fall out. Take the opportunity to clean out any chain lube gunge and locate the infamous 'hidden' screw (arrowed).



Remove the front cable guide (2 x M5 - 5Nm) noting the location of the special screws.

Last edited by Luddite; 07-08-2019 at 05:43 PM.. Reason: Thread link added
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Old 07-08-2019, 05:35 PM   #2
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Part 2

Remove all the screws (13 x M6 - 13.5Nm) holding on the alternator cover. The screws are shown here and, to aid reassembly, the lengths are:

A = M6 x 20mm (x 2)
B = M6 x 25mm (x 7)
C = M6 x 30mm (x 2)
D = M6 x 30mm (special screws x 2)



Remove the inspection cover (2 x M6 - 5Nm) being careful not to lose or damage the o-ring.

Attach the puller using the two vacant inspection cover screw holes and nip it up. Then tighten down the centre screw against the end of the crankshaft until the bond between the covers is broken. Pull the outer cover away and, if you're not unplugging and removing it completely, use a bungee or similar to suspend it from the handlebars so as not to stress the cabling.

Use a scraper and/or silicone gasket dissolver to completely remove all traces of the existing sealant. I used Threebond's own 3911D, which really speeds up a tedious job. It's designed to be sprayed on but I used a brush as I didn't want to risk it damaging the paint. Cover the inside of the cases to prevent bits of old gasket from dropping inside and possibly finding their way into the oilways.

Reassembly, as they say, is the reverse of removal. Completely degrease the mating surfaces and then apply a continuous, even bead of Threebond 1215 on the cover only, being particularly careful around the screw holes and dowels.

It may not strictly be necessary, but the manual says to replace the gearchange shaft oil seal (937831524) and at only around £3, it would be a false economy not to. The seal should be replaced after the casing has been bolted back on and after damping with alcohol.

I also replaced the two o-rings (88641731A) on the clutch pushrod as they're less than a quid a pair.

Hope that's helpful to someone.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:31 PM   #3
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That will be handy for someone without a workshop manual.
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Old 06-06-2023, 11:04 PM   #4
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A quick addendum with a useful video from Brad the Bike Boy showing how to align the gear change mechanism on reassembly.

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Old 07-06-2023, 07:29 PM   #5
RichardDDuke
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Luddite,
Yet again many thanks for a really useful technical article. I managed to spin the terminal instead of the nut on my starter motor when trying to replace cable.

Hence I need to replace it and this article gives me more confidence in doing it myself instead of paying a mechanic £90/hr to do it.
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Old 07-06-2023, 10:00 PM   #6
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Hopefully you'll find it useful, Richard. Enjoy scraping off all that Threebond!
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Old 07-06-2023, 10:36 PM   #7
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I find that Threebond comes off clean as a whistle with a little clutch and brake cleaner and a green scourer pad.
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Old 07-06-2023, 10:49 PM   #8
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Cracking tip - thanks Mr G.
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Old 08-06-2023, 10:37 PM   #9
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Excellent guide, thanks for posting! Could come in handy…
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