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Old 03-04-2018, 08:36 PM   #31
Darren69
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If you can't get anything to grip it and stop it spinning you may have to leave it until the swing arm is off the bike and attack it from underneath with something. I mean I get the whole concours thing but why would you replace something no good with the same when something better is available?
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Old 03-04-2018, 08:49 PM   #32
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Yeah, I think it'll have to stay on till the swing arm is off.

Re your second point. Are you talking about replacing of bolts and upgrading them instead of swapping like for like?


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If you can't get anything to grip it and stop it spinning you may have to leave it until the swing arm is off the bike and attack it from underneath with something. I mean I get the whole concours thing but why would you replace something no good with the same when something better is available?
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:15 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by davkyt View Post
Yeah, I think it'll have to stay on till the swing arm is off.

Re your second point. Are you talking about replacing of bolts and upgrading them instead of swapping like for like?
Yes, I know there are some on here that would prefer to replate the originals for the sake of originality, but I can't help thinking that will be asking for trouble in 5-10 years time when they've seized up again.

I mean they're already so old and probably partly rounded out anyway so replating them won't make them any better.
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Old 04-04-2018, 06:55 PM   #34
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Battery off.
Fuel drained.
Tank off.

It's all starting to look serious... I might go to the paint shop over the next few days to get a quote for spraying and applying the stickers

I guess the air box comes off next before I need to make something to hold the engine so that I can take the Swingarm and front end off...
Any suggestions on where to go next welcomed.

Also, has anyone replaced the frame sticker below?







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Old 04-04-2018, 07:19 PM   #35
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Remember that airbox wont come out until you remove ignition switch. Early bike had a plate stamped to rear of frame near side pod . Remember how the throttle cables are passed through and the way the wiring is routed. It really does matter and sometimes it really makes more sense.

AND DONT FORGET THAT ENGINE TO FRAME EARTH LOCKNUT ON THE RIGHT HAND FOOTREST HANGER BOLT...
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:42 PM   #36
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Thanks Albie

And I promise to look for a wire/nut thing on the hanger before I go any further 😁

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Remember that airbox wont come out until you remove ignition switch. Early bike had a plate stamped to rear of frame near side pod . Remember how the throttle cables are passed through and the way the wiring is routed. It really does matter and sometimes it really makes more sense.

AND DONT FORGET THAT ENGINE TO FRAME EARTH LOCKNUT ON THE RIGHT HAND FOOTREST HANGER BOLT...
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Old 05-04-2018, 03:01 PM   #37
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On the spinning riv-nut in the swingarm ...
Can you not remove the end cap and chain adjuster block etc from that side of the swingarm and then reach inside with some longnose pliers or somesuch, to hold the back of the rivnut while you unscrew the bolt ?

Personally, before doing so I would give the top of the bolt a few sharp blows with a hammer and punch, to jar the threads and hopefully crack the corrosion.
Then I would soak it in penetrating oil for a day or so.

Another option would be to carefully grind off the bolt head with a Dremel or similar tool.
As the rivnut is already loose and spinning, it should then drop inside the swingarm (possibly with assistance from a small punch) and you can remove it via the open end.
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Old 05-04-2018, 03:55 PM   #38
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I had the same issue with the same fastener in an Aluminium 900SS Swingarm.
Which you can't reach down inside of.

I ground the head off the screw so I could take the hugger off and get at it properly.

Then I tried just drilling out the remains of the screw and Rivnut, but even with a bit of pressure in the pillar drill the rivnut kept spinning round.

I drilled a 2mm hole down the side of the rivnut between it and swingarm using a milling bit which is obviously less flexible.
This should have given me half a hole in the rivnut and half in the swingarm, but of course the bit went more into the Ali than the steel, but there was enough of an arc cut in the rivnut that I could press in a mild steel pin to stop the rivnut turning whilst I drilled it out.

The ‘press in a mild steel pin’ sounds good, but in reality I hammered in a nail of the right diameter.

I’ve not replaced the Rivnut yet, but am convinced the Land rover ones I have are the same thread but a slightly bit bigger OD.

Nasher.
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:01 PM   #39
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That's a good call, Nasher.
And should work well in the steel swinger.

Following on from that idea, I wonder if the old rivnut could be tightened up enough by centrepunching all around the circumference, rather than drilling and pegging.

When I fitted my ally swinger, I removed all the steel rivnuts and replaced them with ally ones.
Ally bolts were fitted too.
I have a bag of ally rivnuts left over.
Let me know the sizes and I'll bung one/some in the post for you if you like.
Or if you're coming to the weekender, I'll bring some along with me.
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Old 05-04-2018, 05:19 PM   #40
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Once the screw's ground off and the hugger removed a quick 'spot' with a welder would hold the rivnut in place enough to drill it out or maybe even hold it in place well enough to use?

Though I'd want to remove it and fit a new one, especially if the swingarm's being restored.
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:29 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukedesmo View Post
a quick 'spot' with a welder would hold the rivnut in place enough to drill it out or maybe even hold it in place well enough to use?
Yep, on a steel swingarm that would obviously do the trick. unfortunately it wouldn't have worked on my Ali arm.

I'd be tempted to then weld a nut on top of the rest of the screw to see if it will then unscrew.
I've successfully used the technique of welding a nut to the top of a broken or butchered head screw or bolt so many times as the heat of course helps break the corrosion bond too.
You weld it through the hole in the nut though, don't try welding the underside.

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Old 05-04-2018, 07:33 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davkyt View Post

Tell me davkyt, are you going to use the colourful saddle in this pic on the monster?

Please tell me you are.
That flyscreen would match it too.

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Old 05-04-2018, 07:38 PM   #43
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It can stay where it is for now. I'll just make it worse and break something.
I didn't realise there was a rivet nut under there. I'll probably try hitting it with a hammer. Failing that attack it with the Dremel and do what Nasher suggested.
Thanks guys
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:42 PM   #44
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Tell me davkyt, are you going to use the colourful saddle in this pic on the monster?

Please tell me you are.
That flyscreen would match it too.

Nasher.
You'd have to go all in and have the tyres too...
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:57 PM   #45
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Don't overlook the orangy/ red wheels on the other bike. That shade on your Monsters wheels might really set the bike up!
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