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Members: 605 | Total Threads: 50,802 | Total Posts: 518,377 Currently Active Users: 340 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, ian66 |
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01-02-2017, 10:48 AM | #1 |
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01-02-2017, 09:08 PM | #2 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Beachtown
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,188
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Quote:
I've hardly ever needed to adjust my chain in it's whole life time (have got between 12 and 15k out of them on my 900) and certainly not on a touring trip.
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You're perfect, yes, it's true- But without me you're only you! Last edited by Flip; 01-02-2017 at 09:12 PM.. |
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10-03-2017, 03:25 PM | #3 |
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Update on stand fitting
Centre stands may not be to everyones liking so if they aren't what are you doing reading this? For those who might be looking to fit one this may be of use.
The result of my M1000S stand kit purchase is a M900Sie fitted with a centre stand. Few pix: https://postimg.org/gallery/ffzm3cak/ The stand leg hits the "floating" rear caliper torque rod on full suspension extension i.e on the propstand ...or in mid air! I have relieved the stand pad in that area & slipped a rubber sleeve onto the rod as belt & braces. Will braze a bigger "foot" onto the trimmed pad (& one on the other side to keep the bike level) extending outwards to restore a decent footprint on that side. Ms with a fixed rear caliper wont have that problem. The 900Sie plastic "underguard" has to be removed. Its held on by 3 6mm allen screws. A stand cross-bar mounted shield may be a possibility if you wanted to keep such a device The guards purpose appears to be keeping chain lube off the fat tyre judging by the layer of crud on mine. The prop stand can be retained but needs to have one bolt undone so dont do the fit on the prop stand! A paddock stand worked OK for me. The threaded insert in the rear of the cases for the drains/breathers is like a small Rawlbolt & once the screw undoes it can be tapped out from the other side with a length of 10mm rod. The long stand mounting through bolt is overlong by about 2cm so plenty of room for another nut & a home made guide for the pipes. The stand mounting plates fitted direct to the cases without any spacers. The torque rod bracket fitted outside the stand mounting plate. A spacer equal to the thickness of the stand mount (about 6mm) needs to be fitted under the torque rod mount. The exhaust collector comes very close to the stand mounts. I relieved the area on both mounts next to the collector to allow for some movement of the pipe when the engine is fully up to temp. The operating leg on the drive side sticks out a good way and with my high level pipes looks odd so thats for a trim down in my case to finish the job off. Other than that it blends in quite well I think. With OE or low cans the leg will be the first thing to touch down on that side. The result is a very stable stand for use on good hard standing - much like the prop stand the contact area is rather too small for confidence if parking on tarmac. Next job is to put a pad on the prop stand to make the bike stand a little straighter. Hope that helps anyone looking at fitting a centrestand. |
10-03-2017, 03:35 PM | #4 |
Bockloks
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: London
Bike: No Bike Yet!
Posts: 4,601
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I don't like genocide either but I've read and 'enjoyed' many books on the subject
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10-03-2017, 04:17 PM | #5 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,834
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Good to know that the torque rod mount will just go on top of the stand bracket.
I was figuring that I would have to weld a piggyback bracket on the stand to mount the rod. Nice that the brackets clear the exhaust too. Much metal has to be removed from the ST stand. No problem with the threaded insert either. I would have been drilling that out, but now I know it is "put backable" My solution to the leg fouling the rod, was going to be to warm it up and bend it outwards... It looks like it toes in anyway. Nice work Norvin, and thanks for explaining the fit to an Sie so well. I might re-visit the idea again now, but I sold the ST stand I had... Doh!
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10-03-2017, 04:48 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
I thought of bending the leg out but in doing so it might end up being effectively shortened & I'd end up doing what I'll be doing anyway - adding a "sole" to the leg to regain the area I've trimmed away...and if I fit low pipes again it'd probably whack the can! Forums are great places to ask for help & give a little back when you can so I hope anyone as confused as I was when I started looking at the stand possibility will be a little better informed now. The idea of getting kits replicated evaporated when I saw the shape of the stand - there's not a straight line in it! I'd need to get jigs made for that & press tools for the brackets as they are pretty 3D too. It'd end up being an expensive project. Guess its keep looking at ebay in Europe & the USA. |
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10-03-2017, 05:12 PM | #7 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,834
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I absolutely agree with trying not to do irreversible mods, which is why I was pleased you found that the threaded insert knocks out.
Bending out the right hand leg will not bring it into contact with a low level silencer, as it is already sweeping up higher than that at that point. I was also going to weld or braze on a bigger foot, partly because I thought that bending out the leg would also shorten it a bit and put the bike out of level... But then again grinding down the other foot might achieve the same thing. Of course I never got so far as to find out how high it lifted the bike. How much air do you have under the back tyre? I'm assuming it sits on the front?
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11-03-2017, 12:37 PM | #8 | |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,545
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11-03-2017, 04:39 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: East London
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 9,713
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