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Old 13-04-2019, 11:13 PM   #1
Tim88
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Just another thought, it is important to form the heads of the rivets properly so use your vernier calipers to measure both the overall length of the pins and the diameter of the head versus the other pins on the chain, you must also feel and observe the progress of your work frequently during the joining operation to ensure that everything is square at all times and that the head is being formed symetrically.
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Old 09-08-2019, 02:09 PM   #2
Ron1000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim88 View Post
Just another thought, it is important to form the heads of the rivets properly so use your vernier calipers to measure both the overall length of the pins and the diameter of the head versus the other pins on the chain, you must also feel and observe the progress of your work frequently during the joining operation to ensure that everything is square at all times and that the head is being formed symetrically.
Very good advice, Ari guy from MC Garage suggested this.

I was forced into doing my first chain on my mates bike....it's not came flying off so all good
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:02 PM   #3
Nickj
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If its a hollow soft rivet then a pipe flaring bit to splay it, if its solid two hammers.
The real trick is in getting the spacing for the O or X rings correct, the link usually comes with a pair of plate or bent wire spacers for this.
I've never paid anyone to fit a chain in errr rather a lot of years .. I've snapped about two which is very messy but never had a side plate come off.
Said it before somewhere but the side plates don't experience any significant axial forces (unless your sprocket alignment is all wrong) all they do is transmit longitudinal load so a tight interference fit is about all they need to stay at the right position to maintain the O/X ring clearances. The pins are usually a tight transition fit to the side plate to start with so don't actually need much expansion of the end to become a good interference fit, an expansion of 0.025 mm is surprising more than enough.
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