UK Monster Owners Club Forum .: Technical :. Engines, Clutch, Gears » 1999 M600 has been sitting for 5 years - what to do?

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Old 29-02-2020, 01:30 PM   #46
Darren69
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If you're compressing the clutch springs fitting the slave my guess is its too long with the extension piece in.
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Old 29-02-2020, 02:15 PM   #47
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There are generally only two lengths of clutch pushrod for the first generation of Monsters.
The early ones are 325mm long. Around 2002 a new slave was introduced with a deeper piston. The pushrod was suitably amended to 335mm.
This is why the Oberon slaves are supplied with a 10mm spacer, so you can pop that in to use with the early pushrod or without for the later ones.

Now, Ducati also introduced an "Anti-spin" pushrod slightly after the rod length increase and the slave was again revised to incorporate "Anti-spin" slots.
The rods are now supplied with the anti-spin pins as standard and you simply knock these out if your slave will not accommodate them.

The joy is that Oberon slaves not only take the longer rod without the spacer but also have anti-spin slots, so you can upgrade your 600 to the later spec with a new rod part No 11721122A. It comes complete with pin and O-rings.
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Old 29-02-2020, 02:33 PM   #48
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It’s not compressing the clutch springs I don’t think. Only the return spring in the Oberon.

Is that 30mm total exposed rod from where it appears from the crank case?
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Old 29-02-2020, 02:55 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamminbmx View Post
Is that 30mm total exposed rod from where it appears from the crank case?
It's 30mm of exposed pushrod. Or you could just extract the whole pushrod and measure it. As Mr Gazza said, if it's 325mm, you need the spacer; 335mm and no spacer required.

More information here:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=58107
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Old 29-02-2020, 04:16 PM   #50
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It's a pita to remove the pushrod on a wet clutch bike, drain oil and side cover off. Easier to find out what the length should be by how much should protrude from the case.
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Old 29-02-2020, 04:33 PM   #51
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It should be withdrawn from the slave side, but they have a habit of hanging on to the pressure plate top hat on the dry clutch. In theory it should only be O-ring resistance in the top hat to overcome, which should be relatively easy if it's been bathed in oil? But then I've not done a wet one.
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Old 29-02-2020, 04:49 PM   #52
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True!
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Originally Posted by Mr Gazza View Post
It should be withdrawn from the slave side, ...it should only be O-ring resistance in the top hat to overcome, which should be relatively easy...
False!
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Originally Posted by Darren69 View Post
It's a pita to remove the pushrod on a wet clutch bike, drain oil and side cover off. Easier to find out what the length should be by how much should protrude from the case.
The last time I removed mine (1100 Evo) was last August when I had to replace the broken gearchange return spring. The pushrod slid out easily using finger and thumb and took about 45 seconds including removal of the slave cylinder.
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Old 29-02-2020, 05:10 PM   #53
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Yes that's the theory but with the dry clutch at least the bearing didn't yield so had to come out the long way. Maybe with a wet clutch it will be easier?
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Old 29-02-2020, 06:24 PM   #54
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I quote from Post #14 of The Clockie's thread which Luddite linked to above... This is worth checking if you have not already done so.

"Bemused, I tried it one more time with the clutch fully assembled and realised that the Oberon wasn't seating on the case because the body was fouling the chain. And the reason for that was that whoever assembled it left the screw-in plug on the inner face in the wrong position so the cutaway that should give clearance for the chain didn't do so."

As far as I know here is not a spring in the slave, and it would be unusual on any hydraulic slave? (Beside which it would be trying to push the piston away from the rod to do any good, while hydraulic pressure is what pushes it towards the rod.)
The resistance that you felt when screwing the slave down could have been fluid being pushed back up the hose, if you had already connected it, or air in the hose being compressed? Thinking about it, it would be unlikely that you connected the line to the slave before screwing it down, but if the bung was still in the banjo hole then possibly it might seal well enough to create some resistance?.
My slave always slides over the rod right up to the mating face with no resistance.
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Old 29-02-2020, 08:32 PM   #55
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I think there is a light spring behind the piston in the slave that keeps it in contact with the rod, thus preventing lost motion at the lever. It certainly felt like that on the S4R Oberon installation. If the bike under discussion is a 1999 model, my understanding is that it should need the spacer. Or have I got that wrong?

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Old 01-03-2020, 05:56 PM   #56
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So the rod measures 305mm and there is 25mm exposed so i installed it back with the spacer. I had a google and it seems there were 3 lengths of rod - 305 / 325 / 335mm. My bike is an Italian import so could be a mixture of bikes to be honest! No history.

Its a 1999 according to VIN.

Not i sure if there is or isnt a spring! My guess would be there is! Feels too easy to be the clutch springs.

Rod is super easy to remove. Only 2 O-rings holding it in place. I think this is a wet clutch?

Didnt get a chance to start it today but will keep you informed!

Last edited by jamminbmx; 02-03-2020 at 11:34 AM..
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Old 02-03-2020, 05:11 PM   #57
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It’s alive!

Got home from work and after much swearing at the fuel hose routing under the tank I cranked it for AGES. Convinced it had a blockage so opened the carb drains and fuel came out. Eventually it fired and ran rough then got better. Ran it until I felt dizzy in my shed. Far too wet for a test ride but a good start!
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Old 02-03-2020, 06:41 PM   #58
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QuoKNZjr8_U
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Old 02-03-2020, 07:11 PM   #59
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Talking

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That is literally exactly what happened in my shed
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Old 02-03-2020, 07:56 PM   #60
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You went mad and had to be restrained? Lol!
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