1100 Evo front wheel removal

[bigredduke]

Having a bit of difficulty chaps. Following the workshop manual instructions, I have removed the calliper mounting bolts & the wheel shaft. There isn't enough clearance between the outside of the callipers and the wheel rim to allow the wheel to slide out.

I have a constands front paddock stand which lifts the front end using a spigot into the hole under the headstock. This lifts the front wheel about 6" off the ground - is that sufficient?

I don't remember having this problem removing the front wheel from my previous S4R

Any suggestions?

[rollo22]

Paul you need to lift the caliper off the disk and hang from the frame.
Also you need to open the clip or remove (cant remember) on the mud guard to remove hose.
A spacer will probally fall out just to make it interesting.
Hope this helps

[chris.p]

I find you have to twist the caliper to towards you to push the pads back to allow you pull the calipers off at an angle to clear the wheel rims. Then I use string to hang the calipers from the handle bars so they are out of the way.

[bigredduke]

Sorted thanks!

I assumed the Evo had some peculiarities that meant I was missing something.
Having read some earlier threads, I found it was easiest to remove the pads from the top of the caliper. This gives much more clearance to angle the calipers and remove them. I used bungees into the pad pin holes & around the frame to suspend them out of harms way.

Wheel came out easily! Why the workshop manual doesn't suggest removing the pads first is beyond me as it is much simpler.

[Luddite]

You have to remove the calipers and there are two ways you can do this, either;

• remove the pads first and then it's easy to lift the calipers off or;
• once you've removed the caliper bolts, push the caliper against the disc to push the outside pistons back into the caliper then pull the caliper towards you against the disc so the inside pistons are retracted. That will give you enough clearance to lift the caliper off, even if the pads are brand new.

When replacing the wheel and calipers follow this procedure:

Lubricate the shank and thread of the axle.

Fit the front wheel between the fork legs, installing the spacer in-between the wheel hub and left-hand fork bottom end.

Fit the axle locking tool onto the axle. (Or use a suitably sized allen key if you don't have the tool.)

Drive the axle fully home into the wheel hub, inserting the locating peg of the locking tool in the special notches at the bottom end of the fork.

Grease the thread and the underside of the head of the axle nut, then screw it onto the end of the axle. Tighten the nut to a torque of 63 Nm ±5%.

Grease the threads and undersides of the heads of the caliper bolts then screw them in finger tight. Tighten the screws to a torque of 2 Nm ±10%.

Operate the front brake lever two or three times.

Hold the lever pulled in towards the grip and tighten the caliper bolts to a torque of 45 Nm ±5%.

Check that the brake discs turn freely inside the calipers.

Before tightening the fork bottom pinch bolts, lower the bike to the ground and push up and down on the handlebar to load the suspension; so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel shaft. (Don't forget to remove the locking tool.)

Grease the fork bottom pinch bolts then tighten them to a torque of 14 Nm ±5%, proceeding in a 1-2-1 sequence. (Note that the workshop manual instruction says 18 Nm but the table of torque values in the same manual says 14 Nm - go with the lower figure.)

Edit: You beat me to it, BRD!

[slob]

... and don’t forget to pump the lever until you get a brake back AFTER refitting the calipers!


edit: beaten to it by a much more comprehensive guide.

[Tim88]

I have done this three times now, Luddite's instructions are spot on! I usually remove the mudguard as well, it is a good chance to clean everything etc.and frees up the brake lines while the calipers are off. Be careful not to lose the spacer washers behind the mudguard screws on the right hand fork leg, they are there to match the thickness of the ABS sensor mounting plate on the left hand side.

[bigredduke]

Thank you everyone for your advice, much appreciated as ever!

I was getting very frustrated with the calliper removal. Unfortunately I had already removed the centre spindle & so the wheel was too loose to push/pull the pads & pistons against the disks. I think removing the pads is easier & I can give them a good clean & copper-slip the pins & back of the pads whilst they are out.

Front mudguard removal is a good idea as well

[Darren69]

I was gonna say remove the mudguard first as it gives better access and removes the chances of accidental damage. Then as you found out its easier to remove the calipers, then the wheel. Happy days