UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Cans, Tyres, Brakes, etc. » Shock length 1100 evo

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Old 14-05-2019, 08:00 PM   #16
Luddite
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Originally Posted by Rrawlings View Post
As for mods... ditch the pillion pegs but need a decent bracket...
You can't go wrong with an Evotech for £68. Great products and top customer service.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=57277

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...57&postcount=7
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Old 14-05-2019, 11:40 PM   #17
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The PR4s were on when I got it and only done 100 miles without turning a corner between fitting and me getting the evo. I’ll be honest I’ve ridden the bike twice since I picked it up and I would say so far they seem very good. I expected them to be more touring biased than they are and was very impressed with the way the tyres and bike felt on a spirited ride on some of my favourite local roads. Not sure what they’d be like on a track day and will have to give them a thrash in the Dales to see what they really do.

As for mods yeah I’m poised to do some stuff but want to keep it fairly understated, although with the noise I’m going to struggle, maybe a bit more carbon to match the termis, shock, ditch the pillion pegs but need a decent bracket and a really good clean/detail

Best Mods are Rexxerr Flash for the ECU, reworked fork internals, they are to soft and the compression adjusters are useless, and a decent rear shock as it is way to hard and bad compression.

I also swapped out the Evo risers for a pair of lower 796 bar risers, puts more weight over the front and more comfortable on my back :-)

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=50780

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...hlight=chris.p

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=51391

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=50851
hope you have a bottomless wallet ;-)
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Old 08-06-2019, 03:07 PM   #18
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I’m now struggling to get my old shock off. Top bolt no problem but the one in the swing arm is going no where. I’ve had impact gun on and no joy. Am I missing something or does the bolt just go into the swingarm and the steel to Ali reaction is playing its part
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Old 08-06-2019, 03:51 PM   #19
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I’m now struggling to get my old shock off. Top bolt no problem but the one in the swing arm is going no where. I’ve had impact gun on and no joy. Am I missing something or does the bolt just go into the swingarm and the steel to Ali reaction is playing its part
It's not an uncommon problem unfortunately, Ryan. Have a look here for some useful tips:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/s...ad.php?t=56151
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Old 08-06-2019, 04:08 PM   #20
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Impact hex key broken. Bolt not budged. My dad is an engineer and we are looking at how we can go about drilling it out far enough that the shock comes out. Then dealing with the bit in the swing.

The link made for interesting reading thanks again Vince
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Old 08-06-2019, 04:23 PM   #21
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Impact hex key broken. Bolt not budged.
That's frustrating, Ryan. Sounds like you're having exactly the same problems as Mossleymonster. Out of interest, was your hex bit chrome moly (black) or vanadium (silver)? If it was vanadium, try it with a moly bit as the chrome ones aren't really up to impact wrench use. I'd definitely recommend some heat too although, as the bolt's pretty well buried, it can be difficult to apply it just where it's needed. I wonder if one of those 'Bolt Buster" heat induction loops (or even a blow torch) would do the job if applied to a socket/extension while inserted into the bolt?

Good luck and let us know how you get on.

Last edited by Luddite; 08-06-2019 at 04:26 PM..
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Old 08-06-2019, 04:34 PM   #22
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PS the fact that you're removing the shock suggests that you've got a mod lined up - did you find a new shock or are you changing the spring?
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Old 08-06-2019, 04:35 PM   #23
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It was a brand new moly set. We’ve had heat from a blow lamp on until the swing arm wasn’t bearable to touch then put penetrating fluid on and repeated the process a few times. Left it over night then same again today with the impact gun after heat and oil then snap. Not sure what the plan is but looks like the drill will be coming out
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Old 08-06-2019, 04:41 PM   #24
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That's a pain, Ryan. At least being a cap head, you should be able to get the drill nice and central.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:10 PM   #25
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PS the fact that you're removing the shock suggests that you've got a mod lined up - did you find a new shock or are you changing the spring?
Yeah original plan was to swap the spring with the shock off. I only did this because back brake was sticking so split the calliper down and replaced the seals and gave everything a good old coat of red rubber grease. Flipped the calliper somthe bleed nipple is at the top and all seems good. So whilst the bike was in bits I thought I might as well get the shock off and do a spring swap. Then the blow torch came out. Now I’ve got a replacement Sachs shock that is absolutely mint from eBay (it looks like it’s never been out of a box let alone on a bike in the rain) because I was worried that the blow torch might kill the bush in the shock. I also have an evotech exhaust hanger for when it goes back together.

Vince can you help me on where to get the Öhlins spring and the part number I need. As luck has it I weigh the same as you in my riding gear 80kg so is from your previous post with the table is 01092-36 right?
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:49 PM   #26
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Hi Ryan

Yes, that's the correct spring no.; the 01092 gives the spring dimensions and the -36 is the spring rate, in this case 105 N/mm.

For reference, here's the chart with all your options. The 105 N/mm is perfect for me and my riding. As you're fitting an Evotech hanger, I'm guessing you won't be taking a pillion so it should be fine for you too.



For the spring itself, try Mark Hammond at MH Suspension 01249 721001 www.mhracing.com. Budget for £75-£80.
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Old 08-06-2019, 11:27 PM   #27
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As always Vince you’re a legend. Thanks for the confirmation. No need for pillion pegs my wife and I have a 3 month old baby so bike time is a solo thing plus the back end looks so much cleaner without them.

Regarding the shock my dad and I spent a good hour just looking and throwing ideas about and the plan is as follows. 1. Using an air hacksaw cut the bolt on the right hand side of the shock first as there is a little more space that side. 2. Tap the shock across into the gap created. 3 cut the bolt again leaving as much of it sticking out of the swing arm as possible. 4. Make a guide bush for the drill bit to go through that fits tight to where the head of the shock bolt goes and also sits around the bolt sticking out of the swingarm the rest of the internal diameter being the same as that of the drill size for an m10 tap ready for re tapping the thread if a screw extractor still won’t get the bolt out. 5. Drill 6. Hope it’s not a cock up and a new swingarm needed
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Old 09-06-2019, 12:18 AM   #28
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Well, it seems like you've got a plan, Ryan, and having an engineer in the family sounds like a great addition to any toolbox!

Do you have any left-handed drill bits? They can help to free off the bolt during the drilling process.

Don't forget you'll need a spring compressor (or alternative) for spring swaps on the Sachs shock. You'll also need to adjust the preload to accommodate the new spring. For reference, the stock Sachs shock has 15mm preload with 148mm of rear wheel travel. So aim for something like 10-15mm of static sag with 30-45mm with you on board.

Hope you're back on the road again soon and enjoying your Evo.

Last edited by Luddite; 09-06-2019 at 12:24 AM..
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Old 09-06-2019, 07:49 AM   #29
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To add to Luddite's post Rawlings I have made these sheets up for when I was racing and they are a real good way to keep track of suspension settings etc.


Only trouble is I can not upload the Pdf of them, if you pm me your email address I will send the Pdf file to you.
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Old 09-06-2019, 01:26 PM   #30
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