Aftermarket brake and clutch levers ?

[Jam911]

Who makes the best aftermarket brake and clutch levers please?

Evotech , ASV or ?

[Ron1000]

Titax, pazzo, rizomo, ducabike, cnc racing + a whole load more.

[slob]

My favourites are CRG, unfortunately they seem to be made of unobtainium these days

[Luddite]

I've got ASV levers on the Evo (BRC550-S & CRC550-S) (https://asvinventions.com/c5-series-...-lever-brc550/). Beautifully engineered and manufactured. 4 inch span adjustment with 180 clicks between max and min.



They are also claimed to be unbreakable as they are designed to pivot forward in the event that the bike falls over. I've not tested that claim yet and I don't intend to either!

Before that, I had CRG levers on my S2R. They were also nicely made but only had five or six different span options. The CRG have been widely copied by the Chinese but I haven't seen any ASV copies yet. Some of the Chinese levers seem quite well made - it's the quality of their anodising that seems to attract criticism in that it will fade or discolour quite quickly especially if exposed to a lot of sunlight. I suppose if you went for a natural silver though, that shouldn't be an issue.

[Nickj]

Find some you like, beg a borrow for a few days, make a mould then compression mould your own pair in chopped carbon.
You could do the same with a 3D printed mould for levers or engine casings

Got some chinese and the anodising is holding up nicely after 2 years.

[spuggy]

All my Monsters (2x 900ies and an S4) have Chinese folding/extendable levers with the roller bearing adjuster. Huge improvement over the stock levers, and a pair runs about 24-30 squid. They seem very nicely made, and all the fasteners are stainless.

I run them as shorties - because I can get 4 fingers on them if needed, and don't need more than 2 anyway... I like the Titanium and Black (ideally with red adjusters), but many colour combos available.



With the 2000-2001 era Monsters with the GoldLine master cylinders, your biggest issue is going to be either getting a replacement clutch barrel/pin, or getting the pin out of the existing barrel so you can remove/re-use it. The grub screw is tiny, and it acts like it is expoxied in - although it's probably just thread locker, and heat might help - me, I wimped out and stopped before I stripped out the head... On all of them...

I resorted to buying a new Brembo clutch lever to get one, bought another as a spare part from Gotham Cycles (unobtanium ever since, and the Brembo part # is elusive - eg wasn't on the original packet - so may not even be available from Brembo separately from the full lever kit).

For the 3rd, found this outfit that makes their own (picture is a link to the site selling them, AF1 Racing): .

Spendy (twice the price of a pair of levers!) - but still quarter/half the price of buying a complete Brembo clutch lever kit with the barrel/pin included. I had to lap the barrel to the lever for a few minutes with diamond compound on the last pair, but don't know if that was the lever or the barrel that wasn't quite perfect.

[Zimbo]

I've had cheapy. Chinese ones for five years, apart from slightly fading anodising on the adjuster levers they've ben fine.

[utopia]

Yep, I've had cheap chinese shorty levers on my 750 for at least five years and they've been great so far.
More rigid than the original Brembo levers too, which must help.
Mine are silver anodised so no fade of colour.

[jakefh]

Originally Posted by spuggy

All my Monsters (2x 900ies and an S4) have Chinese folding/extendable levers with the roller bearing adjuster. Huge improvement over the stock levers, and a pair runs about 24-30 squid. They seem very nicely made, and all the fasteners are stainless.

I run them as shorties - because I can get 4 fingers on them if needed, and don't need more than 2 anyway... I like the Titanium and Black (ideally with red adjusters), but many colour combos available.



With the 2000-2001 era Monsters with the GoldLine master cylinders, your biggest issue is going to be either getting a replacement clutch barrel/pin, or getting the pin out of the existing barrel so you can remove/re-use it. The grub screw is tiny, and it acts like it is expoxied in - although it's probably just thread locker, and heat might help - me, I wimped out and stopped before I stripped out the head... On all of them...

I resorted to buying a new Brembo clutch lever to get one, bought another as a spare part from Gotham Cycles (unobtanium ever since, and the Brembo part # is elusive - eg wasn't on the original packet - so may not even be available from Brembo separately from the full lever kit).

For the 3rd, found this outfit that makes their own (picture is a link to the site selling them, AF1 Racing): .

Spendy (twice the price of a pair of levers!) - but still quarter/half the price of buying a complete Brembo clutch lever kit with the barrel/pin included. I had to lap the barrel to the lever for a few minutes with diamond compound on the last pair, but don't know if that was the lever or the barrel that wasn't quite perfect.

Can anyone update me on availability of "Push-Rod & Barrel" for a third party clutch lever? I cannot get the original out of the broken lever.

Failing that, can anyone point me in the direction of a third party lever which also has the push-rod & barrel, for less than the OEM £111?

TIA.

[Darren69]

IIRC the Titax levers came with the pin and barrel.

[Leamreject]

Ive tried the Chinese low cost option but found them to rattle which looks crap on idle. So now I have a nice firm set of quality ASV’s

[Darren69]

I could only find places in US selling these:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353951666...mis&media=COPY

It looks like the part you're after?

[Mr Gazza]

Originally Posted by jakefh

Can anyone update me on availability of "Push-Rod & Barrel" for a third party clutch lever? I cannot get the original out of the broken lever.

Failing that, can anyone point me in the direction of a third party lever which also has the push-rod & barrel, for less than the OEM £111?

TIA.

You'll have to explain to me what a third party clutch lever is. Is it something to do with insurance? or a lever for the pillion perhaps?

So if the lever is already broken, why can't you cut/heat/smash/pummel it to pieces until the barrel will drop out?
If I'm imagining the lever correctly I think it's quite thin round the barrel?
There's also a little grub screw in the picture. Is that stopping the assembly from coming to pieces? Does it go in the end of the barrel and lock the rod in?

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by jakefh

I cannot get the original out of the broken lever.

Yeh, don't think I ever managed to get one out. 2.5mm (IIRC) hex key bending like crazy with zero movement on the grub screw. I gave up before I stripped the head out entirely.

I did read later that these were fitted with thread-locker - the type that requires heat before it'll let go, Loctite Red says to heat it for 500F or 260C.. So that might be the trick.

[spuggy]

Originally Posted by Darren69

I could only find places in US selling these:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353951666...mis&media=COPY

It looks like the part you're after?

Looks like Gotham Cycles got them back in..