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Old 07-06-2019, 08:19 PM   #1
CarloL
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M900 Loom

Hi

M900 8K miles 1997

Loom butt connectors near the rectifier does not look great

Is this a common issues with the loom on the M900 , not great quality ; remove the butt connectors and put in some crimped . heat shrink connectors ?

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Old 07-06-2019, 08:29 PM   #2
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This is a common fault unfortunately. I regard those connectors as a routine service inspection item.
Bad connections there cause high resistance in the cables and rectifier and I believe that is cause of many rectifier failures and fires.

Make the best connections that you can. Some folk hard wire, others use crimps to join the cables (not crimp on bullets, but a crimp to join the cables.)
I use Gold connecters, as available from model shops, as used on electric models. (Use no less than 4mm)

Once you have a low resistance connection make sure it's weather proof... Heat shrink is good, but what ever it takes to work.

Check connections for security and corrosion once a year.

Post Script.. By the way those do not look like original connectors and I don't think the brown cables are original either, they would have been yellow cables.
I think the original was a white plastic block connector.
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Last edited by Mr Gazza; 07-06-2019 at 08:34 PM.. Reason: originality comment.
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Old 07-06-2019, 08:58 PM   #3
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Thanks! Gazza
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Old 07-06-2019, 10:16 PM   #4
Albie
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They are original connectors Gazza
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:41 PM   #5
Mr Gazza
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I stand corrected. They look a bit better than the white plastic connector block that my y2000 bike came with, which melted!

If you want to keep the originals, which seem to have worked fine since 1997, then just keep an eye on them and do an annual corrosion check and an occasional visual check to see if the insulation on the brown and the yellow cables isn't showing any signs of melting or softening... Act quickly if there is any evidence of heat in the cables or connectors.
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Old 08-06-2019, 06:29 AM   #6
Darren69
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Those yellow/brown alternator wires have burnt by the looks. They should be yellow not brown! Its fairly common and you should cut them back to where they are not burnt, hopefully enough good wire left to connect up.
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Old 17-06-2019, 09:30 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren69 View Post
Those yellow/brown alternator wires have burnt by the looks. They should be yellow not brown! Its fairly common and you should cut them back to where they are not burnt, hopefully enough good wire left to connect up.
Yup, they were definitely originally yellow wires, now with so much resistance that the plastic has overheated and burnt to brown. I found mine to be just like that last year whilst fixing an alternator cover oil-leak. The original wires were cheapo steel, not copper. Replacement is a very wise precaution!
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Old 19-06-2019, 07:54 PM   #8
CarloL
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What Cable do you recommend , normal household cable like you get in an extension socket do?

I have weather proof butt connectors with heat shrink , I will hard wire the 3 cables like I did on the 748s
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Old 19-06-2019, 09:35 PM   #9
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Normal household cable will not carry the amperage without resistance and heating up I would go with something like this:
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...85018069034630
You might get away with 39 amp as opposed to 50 amp. If you are wiring right back to the alternator stator you will need to check that the heavier wire will go through the gland in the alternator cover.
Measure the OD of the existing cables and compare with the specification of the various thin wall cables and use the highest amperage cable that will go through the gland
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Old 19-06-2019, 10:57 PM   #10
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Thanks!

This is for 748,998

It's important to note here that, given the obvious need to charge the battery, the stator wires will have to pass 29 amps (350 watts/12 volts) continuously. So I advise you to keep your bike on a trickle-charger whenever possible to reduce the demands on your charging system. Also, avoid the temptation to replace your battery with a low-weight, lower capacity unit. The principal advantage of using a larger battery is to be able to restart repeatedly. If you regularly don't ride long enough to recharge fully between restarts, stay with a larger capacity battery. A lower amp-hour battery will need to be trickle-charged more often.

For 1999, Ducati redesigned the electrical system, going from the 350 watt design to a 500 watt three-phase system. (Three-phase alternators have three wires coming out of them, single-phase have two.) They produce an AC output that has a higher frequency than the earlier single-phase design so the regulator presumably has to do less work (i.e. less heat) conditioning the waveform and converting it to DC. The new alternator also has additional wattage available to run the lights, fuel pump, ECU and accessories but the higher output still has to pass through the regulator.

http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/chargingfailure.php

Probably this cable
33 amp, 3mm sq. 44/0.30
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/972/
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:50 PM   #11
CarloL
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Just to update

The Rectifier was 33 amp, 3mm , the loom wire was slightly smaller 2.5mm maybe , odd size

Bike appears to run alot better with the butt connectors for the Yellow wire replaced ; she appears to have better pick up
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