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Members: 599 | Total Threads: 50,786 | Total Posts: 518,208 Currently Active Users: 413 (0 active members) Please welcome our newest member, Fat8ird11 |
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03-12-2018, 05:39 PM | #16 | |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,796
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I haven't removed my clutch inner cover. As mentioned I masked and painted it in-situ. Luddite has kindly as ever posted a picture of the puller for the alternator cover. That sneaky screw hides in the chain goo behind the clutch slave (which must be removed). You can see it in the picture lurking right beside the clutch pushrod. You have to thoroughly wash down with degreaser to find it.
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03-12-2018, 05:45 PM | #17 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,796
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And just for laughs...
The masking is much easier with the swinging arm removed, but it's still pretty tight and fiddly.
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03-12-2018, 07:22 PM | #18 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Livingston
Bike: M1100evo
Posts: 863
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Quote:
Nah defo clutch side, was going to replace the plates. Eventually gave up, cover wouldn’t budge. And no chance i was doing the old prize it with a screwdriver trick. Could maybe stick a small blade in and cut the sealing but even then I’d be uncomfortable. Last edited by Ron1000; 03-12-2018 at 07:25 PM.. |
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24-11-2019, 08:24 AM | #19 |
No turn left unstoned
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: leicester
Bike: M750
Posts: 4,545
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Did you ever get round to refinishing the cover, Dacs ?
The reason I ask is that I've just done mine and I thought you might be interested in my choice of method. I began by buying a second cover on ebay. I paid £19.99 for one whose paint had already started to flake off. I mounted this on a piece of 22mm ply to protect the joint face and give me something to grip in the vice, masked off the sight glass and bunged up the oil filler and pressure switch holes. I then softened the remaining paint with acetone and scraped it back to bare metal with a sharp knife (in small patches). I then abraded the whole surface using a large scotchbrite wheel for the main areas and a dremel for the nadgery bits, finishing off with emery by hand. Then I applied VHT (brand) primer and topcoat, which I am currently in the process of curing by leaving it on the storage heater in the kitchen where it gets almost too hot to touch in daily cycles. ... its been there for 3 or 4 weeks up to now as the curing process seems to take a while before the paint fully hardens. ... it passes the thumbnail test now but didn't do so for a week or two at first. Careful masking around the sight glass allowed me to leave it in situ. ... and the storage heater curing seems to have been effective. Total cost, neglecting abrasives etc was about £30 and the bike will not need to be disabled for any longer than it takes to just swap the cases over ... which I'll leave 'til the spring. ... so it will get another few months curing. I haven't yet decided whether to replace the yellow metal bush in the case or not. That and its associated seal may be another cost to be added on. Hope that's of some use, one way or another. |
24-11-2019, 10:38 AM | #20 |
You Are What You Is
Join Date: May 2005
Location: A Foward Location
Bike: S4r
Posts: 1,948
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The bush and seal, seal the oil supply to the big ends and need to be in good condition to maintain pressure
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24-11-2019, 11:16 AM | #21 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Aylsham
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 193
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Ah, no, I haven't dealt with it. I have bought the requisite cans of paint, having come to the conclusion that your approach listed here was probably the way to go. Now wondering whether to do the bush and seal at the same time, torn between the two camps of 'do it while you have access' and 'leave it alone if it's not broke'.
Might actually get round to it this winter (or not).
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25-11-2019, 06:07 PM | #22 |
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Posts: n/a
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