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Old 11-11-2018, 04:31 PM   #1
fingerpuk
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Monster 696 deep clean project.

Hi all.




This is my Ducati Monster M696, 2009, non ABS. It is one of my, if not my favourite bike of all time. Not the fastest, nor the best handling, but so much usable power and such fun. I am the third owner, the previous two kept it fairly clean and so have I but it has been used, in all weather, for all of it’s life.

Coming up to its 10th birthday I decided to give it a clean and replace a few corroded parts. This is the diary of that process.

Being my first major clean I got many things wrong. In no order they were:

– starting a deep clean when you have there months of good weather left.
– starting a deep clean without setting a budget.
– starting a deep clean with tools and not a torch, parts manual, and notebook to hand to write down all the bits you’ll be changing so that you don’t…
– start the deep clean by throwing away stuff you don’t have new bits for.

This list well get updated as I remember more things. Also the list of when I did things may be out of order a bit, I’m getting old.

First job was off with the panels.





An hour later all the panels were off, wrapped in bubble wrap, and the screws placed into labelled bags.








I’d decided to be logical and start at the front and work backwards, an approach that fell apart fairly quickly as I needed to order and wait for parts. But I made a good effort to stay logical

First off were the front callipers. I used tie wraps to support them out of the way and not damage the hoses which I wanted to re use.





Then the brake and clutch master cylinders were emptied and the levers removed for cleaning.





The next major job (which I’d been dreading but I was in a removing stuff mood) was to get the tank off, something I’d never done. After draining the almost full tank into a load of plastic containers to feed the mower I disconnected everything I could find and off it came. Simple.





This gave me a really good look at the air box and all the gubbins I’d never seen. Not too clean in there and I’d need to spend some hours with WD40 and a brush. Not a problem.

The front callipers went on the bench to be taken apart and cleaned.





A complete strip down with new seals took place, and it was at this point everything started to go wrong. You see I couldn’t bring myself to put the old spring plate and R clips and pins back on. The calliper looked so shiny (although in this photo it still looks dirty for some reason) that it would be too much of a shame.





So I ordered some titanium.





New pins, clips, plate, pads, seals, and while I here titanium mounting bolts from Pro Bolt. Lovely.

Last edited by fingerpuk; 11-11-2018 at 04:33 PM.. Reason: Image edits.
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Old 11-11-2018, 04:43 PM   #2
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All the old bits get bagged and labelled just in case.


A member of another forum let me know he was selling some parts, parts I hadn’t thought about replacing, and so I bought them. New carbon and seat.








With the master cylinders off the bike I looked at the chrome bars, which I’d never liked, and agonised about what to do. I thought about re plating them, or powder coating them, but instead bought some CNC Italia ones. While they were in the Italian post (i.e. wait 9 weeks) I spent some time looking at the master cylinders. They just looked so sad.





So I bought some new ones.





Because… I don’t know why.





Yes I do. Look at them! To go with these I pondered new lines but my old ones were immaculate, and worked, and braided, so why bother? I’ll make do and save myself the hassle of running new ones. I then removed the front wheel (and can’t find images of that), removed the bearings, cleaned everything, and put new bearings in. Then the bars arrived.





Which were much larger than OEM. You can see I’d cleaned the airbag here, and used silicone spray. Silly idea as loads of work was still to come and it would need more cleaning later.

The new bars got measured, cut, de-burred, and installed.






While the old bars were off the front end was given a good clean with WD40, toothbrushes, and micro fibre towels. Top tip, buy these items in bulk cheaper because you’ll use loads.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:00 PM   #3
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Here you can see the Leo Vince cans which sound amazing but aesthetically I no longer liked. I decided to take them off for now and see what happens down to road.





Better. I wish I could run it like this. Then I saw the corrosion on the shock. It’s not bad, the thing works, but it was nagging me. So I made some calls and found a place that would rebuild it and while it was apart get it all coated. Cost would be £180 all up but I’d have to wait a very long time for them to get round to it. So it stayed in for now which is good as I had no way to get it out.

With the front off I put the callipers back on… yeah I know. They came off 5 minutes later when I realised my mistakes.





Front wheel back in, callipers back on (forks are getting a rebuild in the spring when it gets a service and MOT).





On with the Brembo bling.





To find the brake lines no longer fit, they aren’t long enough. On with new HEL lines.





Front brakes bled and done. Happy days.





I then went to put the new clutch line on, but everything around the slave was dirty and needed attention. I did consider a new slave but Oberon won’t tell me if it’ll work with the Brembo, so unless anyone here can say it does I’ll stick with the original for now.





The front sprocket nuts and plate came off, and were replaced with titanium. Pictures to follow, feel free to hassle me. The new clutch line went on and was filled with fluid. Hopefully I’ve done it ok, we’ll find out soon enough.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:20 PM   #4
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While waiting for some new parts to arrive for the front I took a look at the back. The rear wheel needed to come out but my paddock stand used bobbins that went through the rear axle. So I ordered an ABBA - which didn’t fit the aftermarket rear sets. So I ordered some rubber cups, and started to take the back apart.

Now whoever (I owns name names) did the rear wheel last didn’t great the axle. And it was stuck. And by stuck, I mean corroded in. To get it out I let it soak in Plus Gas for a week, then used a bit of aluminium bar, a block of wood, and a massive old hammer to get it to move. I’m not joking when I say I thought the swing arm was going to break, but after a solid 15 minutes of whacking the axle it went PING! and started to move. A long time later the rear was out.





And it was filthy! So was the swing arm, and generally everything in the vicinity.






I covered everything in WD40, ruined a few toothbrushes, then took it outside and used SDOC100 and a pressure washer to get everything clean enough to start the real cleaning.




And then after a very long time with more toothbrushes, more WD40, and lots of MotoGP races playing in the background I managed to finally get the sprocket carrier out.





Which was taken outside, dumped in a bucket of SDOC and left to soak for a while before I washed it all off.






I then looked at it in detail and found two things. It wasn’t going to clean up good enough and it had manufacturing marks on it that, if I ground them off, would stand out.

So it came apart.






Read to be sent away for a professional with tools to clean it.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:40 PM   #5
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The rear calliper bracket was going to be sent away also but… it cleaned up really well. So that’s that.






These though… these needed help. They were taken apart ready for nickel plating. All the clips and the bolts would be replaced.





However before anything could be shipped off the bearings on the carrier needed to come out, and they didn’t want to. I soaked them in Plus Gas for a week, tried heat, tried hitting them and swearing and nothing worked.





And then after talking to lots of people Luddite suggested using my favourite tool - my vice. I have no photos of this because it was precarious but using all sorts of bits I got the bearings out.






I felt like a hero With those parts shipped off for polishing and plating I felt a bit empty, I had nothing to do. As far as I was concerned I just needed to wait for the parts to come back. And I think Luddite sensed this and used my boredom to sell me some bling.







Very pretty. But how to fit it? No ABBA stand. Luddite helped again by suggesting using two ladders. I don’t have two so…





Yes. The wood is bending. It got a lot more banana shaped before I was through. But after 5 minutes the old one was out.
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Old 11-11-2018, 05:46 PM   #6
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But… I wasn’t happy with the fixing plate or anything else that made it fit. So I called Moto Rapido and Pro Bolt and lots of money later I had some parts.





Which went onto the new shock, and then it all went onto the bike.





Hang on a minute! I’ve missed a step. While the bike was being suspended by a cheap bit of wood everything around the shock was soaked in WD40, scrubbed, re-soaked, then micro fibre clothed clean. It was then coated in silicone spray.





And it’s back on. I then attacked the swing arm with more WD40 and more brushes.






That’s better.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:05 PM   #7
Mr Gazza
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Regarding an Oberon cylinder working with your lever; It partly depends on the diameter of the piston in your new lever and also how much adjustment to the mechanical advantage of the lever is available.

You already have it set up on a standard slave so that should give you some idea.

The Oberon works to give a lighter feeling clutch action, by virtue of the larger piston size... 29mm on the Oberon. (sorry don't know what the standard one is, but it is a bit smaller.)

Your standard master was probably 12mm 12.7 or 13mm. I'm guessing that your new one will be 16 or even 19mm. If that is the case it will give you less mechanical advantage and a heavier clutch pull. But it could be that you can compensate that by adjusting the mechanical advantage of the lever upon the piston.

Note that when you increase the mechanical advantage, you also reduce the amount of clutch lift. In other words more lever movement to slave movement.
Vice-versa when you decrease the mech adv.

So try your lever and see if it is heavier or lighter than before, and that you are achieving no less than 2mm clutch lift. Maybe after playing with any adjustment on the lever.
From that starting point you can say that an Oberon will give slightly less lift and a slightly lighter pull.
Factory Racing slaves use a 31mm piston, so will give an even lighter clutch but less lift.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:08 PM   #8
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The rear wheel was still too dirty so with the sprocket carrier off I removed the disc and went to work again. More WD40, more toothbrushes, more silicone spray, more micro fibre towels.







The thing with photos of clean parts is a: they show the fluff left behind and b: they show marks you want to get sanded down and sprayed, but you can’t see them in real life. It’s damn annoying. Anyway, the rear calliper needed the same work as the front so it was removed from the hose (which I’ll replace), cleaned, seals etc all replaced, and wrapped in paper ready to go back on.






And of course everything that could be replaced was, and it was titanium.


Remember that pack of stuff from Moto Rapido? It had more than rear shock fixings. It also had fixings for other bits. As did the Pro Bolt order. Where I could I threw away anything nasty looking and replaced with new, a good example is the rear brake master cylinder bits.





I then cleaned the top half of the engine until it looked mostly like this.





I then decided to do a bigger job I’d been putting off. Replacing the headlight. This box had arrived from the USA.





With this in it.





I decided to not go LED as I wanted an older look, and I won’t ride this bike in bad weather again.


Old light off, new one on.





I thought about keeping the original indicators as I like the look of them, so off they came.





Only to discover they won’t work with the new Motodemic headlight. So I’ll order some new ones.
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Old 11-11-2018, 06:10 PM   #9
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I then unpacked my mirrors, cleaned them, and back on they went.






Which brings me up to date. I’m now waiting for the sprocket carrier to be returned, and the indicators to arrive. Once they are here I’ll wheel the bike out into daylight and make a note of what else needs to be cleaned or replaced.

But for now, thanks for reading.
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Old 11-11-2018, 07:29 PM   #10
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If the new master cylinder operates the stock clutch slave as the original did, it'll operate the oberon one just fine but with x% less pressure
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:46 PM   #11
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Nice post! Keep the updates coming
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Old 12-11-2018, 09:47 AM   #12
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Thumbs up

You've been a busy chap, looks good.
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Old 12-11-2018, 12:43 PM   #13
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This is an impressive refurbishment - really good attention to detail. I only have one small criticism - I thought I'd bought everything I needed for my Evo until I saw those nice titanium caliper spring plates of yours. I think I might have to get a pair!

As far as an Oberon slave cylinder is concerned, I have one on my Evo with no problems.

Your stock slave is the same as mine (at least they share a part no. with just a different suffix letter, which, I think, just denotes a different finish). We do have different stock master cylinders and mine is 15mm. There should be a serial no. on your master ending in -xx where the -xx denotes the bore size.

I see from your picture that your new master is a 16mm, which will be larger than stock. A larger master size will increase the effort at the lever but give more lift at the slave.

A problem some people have after fitting an oversize slave is that the clutch drags or doesn't fully disengage. This is because a larger slave bore results in less effort at the lever but less lift for any given lever movement (i.e. the opposite of a larger master).

Provided your new 16mm master is the same or larger than stock, (and I'm sure it will be), then you'll be fine. The reduced clutch lift from the Oberon will be compensated for by the increased lift from the new master and the overall feel should be similar to standard.

For reference, here's a chart from ducati.ms that shows the effect of changing master and slave cylinders. (It's based on the old 13mm master so the measurements will be different but the principle's the same).



Look forward to seeing the finished product!
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