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Old 08-06-2017, 11:04 AM   #181
350TSS
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This stopped play for the rest of the afternoon and slowed it down for a day or two. I did manage to design the rear tank mounting which will need a downward facing hook attached to the front seat mount bridge on the frame. This will secure the large rubber band that will loop over an aluminium turned compressed cotton reel bolted/bonded to the rear of the top of the tank. Here is the start of the hook manufacture. An 8mm coach bolt held in the vice was heated red hot and bent with a length of gas barrel.
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:09 AM   #182
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Ouch !

I used a pillar drill with a guard missing once (not entirely my fault .. slack maintenance in the apprentice training school).
I ended up with only half a head of hair.

Moral .. working on your own can be particularly hazardous.
I don't mean to preach, just adding a cautionary note.
I often remind myself when working on my lathe that it is very easy to slip into careless habits and the consequences for a single worker alone in their shed could be huge.

I continue to admire your "can do" attitude and ingenuity.
And you've even painted the bending jig.
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:52 AM   #183
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The jig did not work at all well. I designed it with 2 purposes, one to prescribe the final (outside) dimensions of the bent aluminium tube and secondly to bend the tube itself. One purpose frustrated the other and vice versa. To meet the second purpose the tube had to be inside the jig on one side of the bend and outside the other side of a particular bend. With 5 bends in the design it was always going to be problematic with either 2 insides (impossible) or two outsides at a particular bend.

I should have made two jigs; one for the outside shape prescription and, one (more robust and more accurate with better clamping arrangements) to perform the bending itself. You live and learn.

I ended up repeatedly annealing the work piece and bending it between my thumbs as best I could.
I did however need to bend the "hoop" across the widest dimension (i.e. 2 bends at once) so I had to lash up a jig to achieve this.
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Old 08-06-2017, 02:26 PM   #184
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Ouch. Glad you're ok. And the mods just keep on coming!
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Old 08-06-2017, 03:26 PM   #185
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Ouch, less of the self modification please!
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:24 PM   #186
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Had a good day in the garage today, almost finished the Mk2 number plate bracket (which is a lot squarer than the MK 1), I added a fillet to ensure the LED rear light will have a vertical surface rather than pointing 15 degrees down. This stiffened the structure up quite a bit.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:39 PM   #187
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I am desperate to get on with the resin spraying but the weather just is not right for it. I need to get all the CF parts I intend to make dry fitted so I can then strip the bike down and do the really enjoyable stuff. So at the moment I am looking for jobs to do (anything rather than starting the wiring loom).
My first race bike was a 650cc Bonneville Triton with a Gold Star RRT2 box and a Triumph clutch with a single row primary chain. The primary chain used to overheat badly until I fitted a total loss gravity fed oiler (probably wouldn't be allowed now).
I want to fit an oil reservoir under the seat with a small bore tap and connect it to a an oil delivery bracket near the rear sprocket. I will connect it with car windscreen washer plastic pipe. Somewhere in the system I will fit a carburettor pilot jet so all the oil does not fall out too quickly.
I puzzled about how best to mount the bracket without drilling holes in the swinging arm. The rear hugger bracket is no good because when the chain is adjusted the delivery bracket will be in the wrong place.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:49 PM   #188
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I was quite pleased with this because the relationship between the oi delivery head and the sprocket will remain constant whatever the state of the chain adjuster.

I tried brazing it up in holding it in the vice but the heat sink overwhelmed my puny paint stripping torch. After about half an hour I managed to get a small tack to hold then took it out of the vice and put it on the garage floor. Brazing is quite satisfying as I have not really done any before.
my garage floor is painted and (and needs to be re-painted) The heat from the torch boiled the moisture in the concrete and periodically small explosions of hot floor paint burst into my face. I need to find a surface to braze on that does not catch fire , explode in my face or dissipate heat so fast that I end up using half a gas canister to achieve a miniscule tack.
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:04 PM   #189
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Been off air for a few weeks - first the computer passed away then my rheumatoid arthritis medication (weekly self administered injections) deliveries stopped because of an administrative cock up so I was unable to do anything until they got sorted out. Finally wife had a significant birthday with lots of people staying so the house had to be put in better order.
Hopefully now back in the garage for rest and recuperation for the next few weeks.
Started with the lower bracket to hold the headlight.



I tried brazing it but my torch is too feeble, a more powerful torch should be with me tomorrow and I will have another go at making the braze flow into the joints so that it looks a lot neater



As fitted to the lower front fork clamp
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:07 PM   #190
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Finished off the petrol tank rear mounting hook

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Old 06-07-2017, 09:13 PM   #191
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Then I made some pegs o hold the rear view camera to the rear light assembly



The pegs are attached by 6mm mush head screws from above and the 4mm screws provide the up and down adjustment for the field of view (will obviously have to be shortened and a means of preventing them dropping out will have to be worked out (probably softish loctitie)).
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:20 PM   #192
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Unfortunately the cable connector for the camera in the picture above is not made to be taken apart and the cable length to the connector is too short to reach the headstock. I do not want to cut a hole big enough to let the connector through the rear light sub assembly as it will look awful and probably weaken the structure.
Looks as though I will have to take the camera apart, which I am not looking forward to as the entry cable about 4mm diameter must include the power lead and probably 2 very small coaxial leads. High probability of messing it up I think
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:35 PM   #193
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I had two small slugs of 25mm aluminium bar about 25 mm long and while I was playing on the lathe for the camera pegs I thought I would knock up some entry and exit pipes for the aluminium catch tank/reservoir for chain oiler. I made then the same size as the engine breather outlet behind the upright cylinder. The finish on these in the photograph was not good because I could only hold about 3mm in the 3 jaw chuck and they kept moving as I tried to make cuts. They have in fact polished up well using a hand held battery drill and 240 grade wet and dry

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Old 06-07-2017, 09:43 PM   #194
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Finally I spent 20 minutes making my life a lot easier when working on the lathe.



Previously I would spend 2 minutes out of every 10 looking for either the drill chuck key,the 3 jaw chuck key or the tool post square drive key. I was also hoping that being on elastic if I started the lathe with the 3 jaw chuck key inserted it would yank it out before doing any damage. Unfortunately not the case and I will have to work out a hanging location that might make this possible.
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Old 07-07-2017, 04:33 PM   #195
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I have an unused Loobman kit that I think bluesnoseandtoes sent me.

http://www.loobman.co.uk/

I decided not to fit it to my Monster as it involved winding wire round my shiny swinging arm. But your tube mount eliminates the worst part of the Loobman kit and makes it something.

You can have it if it's any use. Just pm your address to me.
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