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Old 15-01-2020, 09:05 AM   #16
jerry
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Are torque wrenches the new bins? We need photo’s!

3 in UK garage 3 in Thailand tool trolley im not greedy ,, just overkill , very rare to use a 1/4 drive one as decent 3/8 does 90% of jobs on a Ducati ,the 1/2'' one is for clutch, crank alternators nut etc where 150ft lbs++ is needed

1/4// ones are not really worth having imho

if u buy get a good 1/2 and a really decent 3/8 drive ,
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Old 15-01-2020, 09:57 AM   #17
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If you have one - use it!
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Old 15-01-2020, 02:49 PM   #18
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Are torque wrenches the new bins? We need photo’s!
Starter for ten, then

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Old 29-01-2020, 07:42 PM   #19
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All this talk of torque wrenches - one question, is anybody organised enough to get them calibrated? I'd like to say 'anybody else' but that'd be a lie - mine don't either! There's facities at work that do the ones for the business and I always wonder what they'd say if I rocked up with mine and asked, in exchange for a unit of currency (a tin of biscuits!)!
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Old 30-01-2020, 05:01 AM   #20
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I have used a calibration company in Hove to get my Mitutoyo electronic guages and verniers calibrated , and he did check Petes generic half inch torque wrench similar to Clarkes or Halfords type and it was about 2% out which is within average tolerance ,

In the offshore work most systems Torque wrenches are calibrated every 3 years most fall within a 2-3% tolerance ,, they are mostly 3/4 size and 1/2'' size and are Norbar or Britool or expensive electronic ones .These are the critical ones for safety laoding and weight tests and readings are recorded ..

The rest are mostly smaller Red TENG ones and dont get called for calibration ,, most seem to go ''missing'' and are regularly replaced ,,Thats where my 3 Tengs came from all brand new when I went to a system that had 4 of each type 1/4 , 3/8 1/2 . most never get used by the teams ,, its ususally me who insists on using small torque wrenches ,, when rebulding pumps or motors or manipulators so the seals dont get over torqued ,
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Old 30-01-2020, 09:02 AM   #21
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It doesn't take much to do a rough calibration on a torque wrench.
Just grip the drive in a vice, attach a spring balance at a suitable distance and pull, observing the balance reading when the wrench clicks.
Repeat at various settings.
I usually wrap a load of tape either side of the point where the balance is attached, for accuracy and to control slippage.
And its obviously best to attach the balance somewhere near the end of the wrench handle and work in messy units of inch.lbs or Newton.millimetres and then convert to suitable round units afterwards.
Sorry if that's a bit "egg-sucking" for many readers.

As with a lot of things, its more about the technique than the equipment (missus).
I usually tighten things up in stages, particularly if the clamping area is broad with multiple fixings and/or is made of aluminium.
For example, fork bottom/wheel spindle clamps can be tightened in one hit with a torque wrench but the resultant clamping effect will be compromised as the material distorts and in a bad case the clamp will shear. In these cases I much prefer hand tightening by "feel" in the first place, increasing the torque progressively and only using the torque wrench for the final, calibrated tweek.
Same for engine cases etc.
In short, torque wrenches are more useful for controlling the final torque applied than for applying the whole torque ... unless its a single bolt fixing.
The state of cleanliness and/or lubrication of the threads is critical too.
But yes, I certainly do use a torque wrench ... nearly always.
And to avoid thread damage, I usually work to the lower end of the torque tolerance .. or sometimes even slightly less.
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