UK Monster Owners Club Forum » .: Technical :. » Mods & How To's » 1100 Evo fuel filter change

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Old 22-01-2020, 01:04 PM   #1
Luddite
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1100 Evo fuel filter change

One of those jobs I've been saving for winter is changing the fuel filter on the Evo. Although the mileage isn't high, it's been in there for the best part of a decade so would probably benefit from being renewed. Strangely, there's no mention of changing the filter in the routine maintenance schedule in either the handbook or workshop manual. Also, I wanted to see if there were any signs of corrosion at all, (bearing in mind I've always used ethanol-free Esso Synergy Supreme+).

I thought I'd share what was involved, as it might be useful for anyone else who's considering doing this job (although I've got an Evo, it should be the same process for any 696/796/1100).

It's not a difficult task but it is more involved than it should be because of all the fasteners you have to remove before you can lift the tank.

So, firstly, remove the tank fairings and then undo the two screws attaching the tank to the frame (the one on the right just above the frame rail and the one on the underside of the tank above the rear exhaust header).

Pop the fuel lines out of their channels under the tank and disconnect the wiring plug.

Then lift the tank to gain access to the fuel pump cover. Now would be a good time to check the foil heat protector, which can break up over time. A replacement (46013682A) is only a couple of pounds from Moto Rapido.

Undo the two nuts and remove the cover revealing the fuel couplings underneath. Disconnect the couplings by squeezing the ring and pulling the connectors straight off. Mark the pipes so you know which is 'In' and which is 'Out'. Some fuel will escape from both the tank and pipe so have a bowl or rag underneath to catch any spillage.

You can now remove the tank and drain any remaining fuel into a suitable container.

To access the filter, simply remove the six screws attaching the flange to the tank (noting the position of the two special screws) and carefully extract the flange and fuel pump assembly. (Note that the screws are Loctited in, so will be stiff to remove.)

This is what the assembly looked like - absolutely no sign of any corrosion, happily.


Good as new!

There's nothing special about the Ducati filter (42540151A)


Mahle KL97 filter

and you can see it's actually a Mahle filter (KL97), which you can get from Opie Oils for about half the Ducati price https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69123-m...97of-kl97.aspx

Changing the filter itself is the quick bit. Just prise open the old clips, remove the old filter, slip new clips over the inlet and outlet hoses and push the new filter fully home onto the hoses.

With the clips themselves, I opted to replace like with like and got virtually identical Oetiker versions from here:

https://hcl-clamping.co.uk/products/...6-11-3mm-304ss


OEM left; replacement right

Clamping them up is easy; there is a dedicated crimping tool available but an old fashioned pair of pincers does the job just as well.


Crimping with pincers

Ducati do list a replacement clip kit (69923451A) but don't bother ordering it; according to Craig at Moto Rapido, the clips in the kit, (which are jubilee type not Oetiker), are the wrong size and come with a short length of hose, (which seems to serve no purpose).


69923451A

Last edited by Luddite; 22-04-2021 at 10:17 PM.. Reason: Clamp supplier link updated
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Old 22-01-2020, 01:06 PM   #2
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Although the workshop manual doesn't say when to change the filter, it does say how to do it, but note that the instructions are a but unclear. The manual says when installing the filter "...position it so that the arrow on the external housing is pointing towards the flange." If you look at the filter when it's in position, the arrow actually points away from the flange but the fuel flow, (which is what's indicated by the arrow) is towards the flange. So just something to bear in mind.

Reassembly, as they say, is the reverse of removal. Just remember to use some rubber grease on the o-rings on the flange and fuel couplings and apply Loctite 243 to the six flange screws (tightened to 5 Nm). Make sure the fuel pipes are the right way round and pushed back into the guide channels moulded into the tank base and that the electrical connector is sitting on the vertical cylinder head.

Job done and, hopefully, it'll last for another ten years.
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Old 22-01-2020, 04:23 PM   #3
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Should this be a "sticky" for future reference?
Nicely described and helpful hints on spares.
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Old 22-01-2020, 07:01 PM   #4
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I would have expected no corrosion found since your tank is plastic so any rust particles will have been in tbe fuel already, since it may have been stored in steel tanks along with any water collected during transit and storage. . Maybe some rubber particles from the fuel system and any other foreign matter collected over 10 years that woud indicate the quality of the fuel used over that time period. Would be interested to see what was actually in the filter but i suspect you'd have binned it now anyway?
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Old 22-01-2020, 07:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darren69 View Post
Would be interested to see what was actually in the filter but i suspect you'd have binned it now anyway?
I thought that too, Darren, but didn't have time today. The old filter's in the garage next to the Dremel and I'll show you what the insides look like tomorrow...
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Old 22-01-2020, 07:56 PM   #6
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Fuel filter autopsy! Im reminded of the old K100 i used to use as a winter hack that would suffer from a blocked injector from time to time and would run on 2 sometimes. Ally tanks in those too (I know) and everythinf spotless but it wasnt until it was noticed that there is a fuel rail that connects the injectors and was steel pipe that had been painted on the outside but was rusting inside. Sorted, then it got nicked and the idiot that stole it couldnt figure out how to unlock the fuel tank and the trip would only work if you fiddled about with the wires so you knew when to fill up. He ran it out of fuel and dumped it.
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Old 23-01-2020, 01:12 PM   #7
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Here you are, Darren!

This is what you'd look like after 10 years submerged in Esso Supreme...



Nothing very exciting, just discolouration really.

And no signs of any particles of any description on the inside...



Still, I'm glad I changed it as it's one less thing to worry about.
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Old 23-01-2020, 01:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luddite
... Strangely, there's no mention of changing the filter in the routine maintenance schedule in either the handbook or workshop manual ...
Earlier models (eg MY02 620/750ie or MY06 S4RS) suggested 20,000km in the maintenance schedule.
So every 2 years, basically the 'large' (belt change) service.
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Old 23-01-2020, 01:39 PM   #9
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Very clean.
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Old 23-01-2020, 02:40 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slob View Post
Earlier models (eg MY02 620/750ie or MY06 S4RS) suggested 20,000km in the maintenance schedule.
So every 2 years, basically the 'large' (belt change) service.
Thanks for the info. slob.
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Old 23-01-2020, 09:06 PM   #11
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Definitely a great 'work through' and can see why they get overlooked so often.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slob View Post
Earlier models (eg MY02 620/750ie or MY06 S4RS) suggested 20,000km in the maintenance schedule.
So every 2 years, basically the 'large' (belt change) service.
Going back a little further in Monster history to when Ducati's were out of many people's financial reach (mostly due to the high price and frequent servicing required) and true of it's Italian exotica label- in 1993 a 900 Monster £7500 which was £500 more expensive than the then ground breaking Honda Fireblade.

So here's how the figures added up from back then and in subsequent years how the factory began to make them 'more affordable' by stretching out the service intervals:







Neil Spalding has more to say about this here and it makes some interesting reading for those who complain their bikes run a bit rough low down:

http://www.sigmaperformance.com/service-interval.html
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Old 23-01-2020, 09:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flip View Post
Neil Spalding has more to say about this here and it makes some interesting reading for those who complain their bikes run a bit rough low down:

http://www.sigmaperformance.com/service-interval.html
Thanks for the link, Flip, very interesting.
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