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12-11-2023, 06:50 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: bury st edmunds
Bike: S2r
Posts: 114
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Starting issues
Hi my sr2 800 is not starting on the button try’s to turn for less than a second, however if I put the bike in gear push it forwards and let out the clutch just enough to rotate the motor , it then starts on the button till the next time. Guessing starting motor is on the way?
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12-11-2023, 07:07 PM | #2 |
Lord of the Rings
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Norwich
Bike: M900sie
Posts: 5,963
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Sounds like a dirty comm.
A refurb kit and a good clean should do the trick. Worst case would be having to skim the comm in a lathe if it turns out to be deeply grooved.
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12-11-2023, 07:20 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: bury st edmunds
Bike: S2r
Posts: 114
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Thanks for reply , ok so never removed starting motor before, to rebuild will I have to remove totally, I will look at workshop manual just any tip n tricks would be good
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13-11-2023, 12:37 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Aylsham
Bike: Multiple Monsters
Posts: 200
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Never opened up a starter motor, but have got quite experienced at removing and replacing one (don't ask) so these observations might help (others on this forum have more knowledge that me and may wish to correct any of the following) -
The 2 valve engines up to 2005, including the 750 that the 800 was developed from, need the starter to be removed in order to get the drive pinion off the shaft - I don't think that you can overhaul it without completing that step. To remove the starter motor requires removal of the alternator cover, which will have to come off anyway if the problem is anything to do with the starter clutch. This requires an extractor and removing ALL the bolts before using it (including the hidden one behind the clutch actuator). Good luck
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13-11-2023, 02:28 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Leics
Bike: M900
Posts: 2,894
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As above, removing the starter motor is not too bad. Just 3 retaining bolts, problem is that 2 of them are inside the casing so you need the cover off - drain the oil first (unless you lean the bike on it's RH side) and remove the side case, extractor required but you can make one quite easily and you'll want either a new gasket or some threebond to reseal it.
Worth checking the alternator/flywheel nut torque whilst you're in there as some have been known to come loose but, again you'll need a tool to hold it.
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M900, 916, LeMans II. |
13-11-2023, 03:17 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Clevedon
Bike: M1200s
Posts: 565
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Once the starter motor off the bike it's straight forward to strip but do not let the motor lead terminal turn in the starter body. After you've given it all a good clean try to find a cap off an thin aerosol, hair moose or similar to hold the brushes open while the armature is slid back in. Push the lid in to hold the brushes back, find one very slightly larger than the commutator with the open end facing inwards when you push the armature in it will push the lid off and seat the brushes.
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Keep the rubber side down. Mick |
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