Dukedesmo's M900 project - the intro... - Page 3

gary tompkins · 13-09-2012, 12:51 PM

I'm now suffering from a really bad attack of workshop envy

Dukedesmo · 18-09-2012, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dukedesmo

Still deciding whether to move the battery support cross member back by a few mm as the horizontal intake stack is very close and I'd be happier with more clearance plus it would be easier to fit an air filter;

And there it was gone;

Got to be careful with new location as moving the battery back requires moving it up to clear the rocker cover, there's room under the tank but may need to angle the battery forwards slightly to be comfortable.

gary tompkins · 19-09-2012, 01:42 AM

Is there enough room to re-fit brace between the rocker cover and the battery, and still get access to and remove cover if needed for shim checks? If so... you could to flip the brace/ battery support tabs 180 degrees and mount it facing forward.

Would be a lot easier to visualise space available with the battery box offered up into position

Dukedesmo · 19-09-2012, 07:54 AM

No, as it would be virtually touching the rocker cover and because the frame rails drop down it would also sit on the intake manifold.

I'm going to move it back by 15mm (in line with the vertical rail below) this gives space for an air filter on the rear carb and, with the battery raised a few mm, clears the rocker cover whilst still fitting under the tank. This is based on a standard sized battery, just need to get some suitable tube as the cut-out piece is too short.

Then need to devise somewhere to fit the under-tank stuff such as ignition module & coils as the rear filter will sit up against the battery, but there is plenty of space in front of the carbs.

Kato · 19-09-2012, 07:56 AM

This is how I did it, using the original brace that went across the frame, the battery holder sits on the two tabs, however I have now moved it and the battery sits under the seat, will take a picture later.

Dukedesmo · 19-09-2012, 08:02 AM

Interesting, do you have any higher res pics of the cross-brace area? be interested to see your new battery setup too.

Saint aka ML · 19-09-2012, 08:13 AM

While you two are here good, ready made spark plug cables and cups any suggestions? To fit monster and dyna coils.

Kato · 19-09-2012, 08:56 AM

Magnecor

http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/pr...-leads-ccp.asp

Dukedesmo · 19-09-2012, 10:10 AM

I have Taylor Silicone leads/Dynacoils/Ignitech, look good and I'm sure they'll work fine but not fitted yet.

Dukedesmo · 21-09-2012, 09:15 PM

So made a new brace and fitted 15mm further back;

Filter now fits over the intake stack;

Battery is a tight fit, especially as I'm planning to use a 'Motobatt' which is 3mm thicker than the Yuasa but it clears the underside of the tank, although I need to lift it around 10mm to clear the rocker cover but as long as I'm careful with the battery box dimensions there should be no issue.

Next step to strip down to bare frame to get the welding finished and frame blasted/painted, although probably do another test assembly first just to be sure.

utopia · 22-09-2012, 03:26 AM

I'm liking your taste in workshop rugs.

Dukedesmo · 22-09-2012, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by utopia

I'm liking your taste in workshop rugs.

'Borrowed' from the house, although not ideal if much grinding or welding goes on - may be slightly 'workshop soiled' after the antics of the last few days...

Dukedesmo · 27-09-2012, 12:53 PM

So, engine removed & bare frame now fully welded & cleaned up. Test fit of engine shows clearance around carbs etc is good and I'm ready for paint.

I'm thinking powder coat would be a better finish and will be doing frame, wheels and suspension hoop. A a couple of questions for those in the know;

My front wheel is new and so no bearings fitted - how best to protect bearing holes from paint?

Rear wheel is used and has bearings and cush drives, although I will be replacing both. I will remove the cush drives before paint as I can see removal being a job that could result in scratching but (returning to the first question re new wheel) would it be good to leave the bearings in to protect the bearing faces? Same applies to head bearing races in the headstock?

With the frame, I have heard horror stories of powder coating hiding frame numbers, thus making MOT etc a problem, how best to 'mask' the frame number?

Presumably a good powder coater would know all the above so can anyone recommend a good painter, preferably in the East Midlands (Leics, Notts, Lincs etc)? although I don't mind travelling for a quality job.

One more thing, there is a small tab on the right side of the frame near to the shock mount that looks like it maybe a problem to paint due to the small gap between it and the frame. Can anyone tell me what it's for and if I need it, or can cut it off for a cleaner look?

Pic of said frame tab;

slob · 27-09-2012, 01:00 PM

tab is for the taillight/rear indicator connector block

Albie · 27-09-2012, 01:04 PM

That tab is what you use to keep connectors tidy to the frame. That one may well be the rear brake light switch connector. The connector has a moulded part which just slips over the tab. There should be about 3-4 across the frame. Just bend it a bit to get paint on it and gently bend back once painted.

Powdercoats cheaper and tougher, but as you said can be annoying if they do too thick in some areas. Paint is good but more expensive to get done.

13-09-2012, 12:51 PM	#31
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	I'm now suffering from a really bad attack of workshop envy __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

19-09-2012, 01:42 AM	#33
gary tompkins 1/2 man - 1/2 pogo-stick Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Dartford, Kent Bike: M900ie Posts: 7,241	Is there enough room to re-fit brace between the rocker cover and the battery, and still get access to and remove cover if needed for shim checks? If so... you could to flip the brace/ battery support tabs 180 degrees and mount it facing forward. Would be a lot easier to visualise space available with the battery box offered up into position __________________ GT Fully paid up member of the S.A.S. (Scottoiler Appreciation Society) 27,000 miles on original chain - and still going strong!

19-09-2012, 07:54 AM	#34
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,838	No, as it would be virtually touching the rocker cover and because the frame rails drop down it would also sit on the intake manifold. I'm going to move it back by 15mm (in line with the vertical rail below) this gives space for an air filter on the rear carb and, with the battery raised a few mm, clears the rocker cover whilst still fitting under the tank. This is based on a standard sized battery, just need to get some suitable tube as the cut-out piece is too short. Then need to devise somewhere to fit the under-tank stuff such as ignition module & coils as the rear filter will sit up against the battery, but there is plenty of space in front of the carbs. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

19-09-2012, 07:56 AM	#35
Kato Dismantled Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: East Molesey Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,222	This is how I did it, using the original brace that went across the frame, the battery holder sits on the two tabs, however I have now moved it and the battery sits under the seat, will take a picture later. __________________ "Political correctness is just intellectual colonialism and psychological fascism for the creation of thought crime" Last edited by Kato; 19-09-2012 at 07:58 AM..

19-09-2012, 08:02 AM	#36
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,838	Interesting, do you have any higher res pics of the cross-brace area? be interested to see your new battery setup too. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

19-09-2012, 08:13 AM	#37
Saint aka ML Junior ah to be young Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,058	While you two are here good, ready made spark plug cables and cups any suggestions? To fit monster and dyna coils. __________________ "I am Lucazade"

19-09-2012, 08:56 AM	#38
Kato Dismantled Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: East Molesey Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 2,222	Magnecor http://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/pages/pr...-leads-ccp.asp __________________ "Political correctness is just intellectual colonialism and psychological fascism for the creation of thought crime"

19-09-2012, 10:10 AM	#39
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,838	I have Taylor Silicone leads/Dynacoils/Ignitech, look good and I'm sure they'll work fine but not fitted yet. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

21-09-2012, 09:15 PM	#40
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,838	So made a new brace and fitted 15mm further back; Filter now fits over the intake stack; Battery is a tight fit, especially as I'm planning to use a 'Motobatt' which is 3mm thicker than the Yuasa but it clears the underside of the tank, although I need to lift it around 10mm to clear the rocker cover but as long as I'm careful with the battery box dimensions there should be no issue. Next step to strip down to bare frame to get the welding finished and frame blasted/painted, although probably do another test assembly first just to be sure. __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

22-09-2012, 03:26 AM	#41
utopia No turn left unstoned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: leicester Bike: M750 Posts: 4,545	I'm liking your taste in workshop rugs.

27-09-2012, 12:53 PM	#43
Dukedesmo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Leics Bike: M900 Posts: 2,838	Painting questions... So, engine removed & bare frame now fully welded & cleaned up. Test fit of engine shows clearance around carbs etc is good and I'm ready for paint. I'm thinking powder coat would be a better finish and will be doing frame, wheels and suspension hoop. A a couple of questions for those in the know; My front wheel is new and so no bearings fitted - how best to protect bearing holes from paint? Rear wheel is used and has bearings and cush drives, although I will be replacing both. I will remove the cush drives before paint as I can see removal being a job that could result in scratching but (returning to the first question re new wheel) would it be good to leave the bearings in to protect the bearing faces? Same applies to head bearing races in the headstock? With the frame, I have heard horror stories of powder coating hiding frame numbers, thus making MOT etc a problem, how best to 'mask' the frame number? Presumably a good powder coater would know all the above so can anyone recommend a good painter, preferably in the East Midlands (Leics, Notts, Lincs etc)? although I don't mind travelling for a quality job. One more thing, there is a small tab on the right side of the frame near to the shock mount that looks like it maybe a problem to paint due to the small gap between it and the frame. Can anyone tell me what it's for and if I need it, or can cut it off for a cleaner look? Pic of said frame tab; __________________ M900, 916, LeMans II.

27-09-2012, 01:00 PM	#44
slob . Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: East London Bike: Multiple Monsters Posts: 9,707	tab is for the taillight/rear indicator connector block

27-09-2012, 01:04 PM	#45
Albie Fanactical volunteer Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Kent Bike: M900 Posts: 9,030	That tab is what you use to keep connectors tidy to the frame. That one may well be the rear brake light switch connector. The connector has a moulded part which just slips over the tab. There should be about 3-4 across the frame. Just bend it a bit to get paint on it and gently bend back once painted. Powdercoats cheaper and tougher, but as you said can be annoying if they do too thick in some areas. Paint is good but more expensive to get done. __________________ http://albies93m900.blogspot.co.uk/