696 / 1100 rear shock Clevis swap.

[Paul_]

Asking for opinions on swapping out the rear shock Clevis on the 696 for the 1100 one to raise the back of the bike a little, rather than drop the forks in a bid to make it handle a little bit better. I know others have done this swap at the same time as raising the front but has anyone tried either just dropping the front or raising the rear on a 696?

[Luddite]

I've not done the swap myself, (I've got an 1100 Evo), but I did look at clevises when I changed my rear shock.

The Evo item is part no. 82919631A and is about £15. It's about 11mm longer than the 696 version and has the added benefit of increasing ground clearance whereas you'd lose some height if you just pulled the forks through the yokes.

I think, if you don't currently have a problem getting your feet on the ground so don't mind raising the seat height a bit, I'd go for the clevis. You can always still fine tune the feel by moving the forks afterwards and it just gives you a greater range of adjustment.

The different brackets are shown below (1100 on top).



If you order from Moto Rapido, don't forget to ask for your UKMOC 10% discount.

[Albie]

Message Big Oz he has done on his 696

[Luddite]

Incidentally, I just remembered that, in standard trim, the 696 runs a 120/60 front tyre as opposed to the lower profile 120/70 of the 796/1100. So, if you're still using the original size, you might want to consider the lower profile option when it's time for a replacement.

[slob]

120/60 is lower profile than 120/70, the second number (height) is a percentage of the first (width). DD racers regularly use (or at least did) 70 profile tyres, both because they’re more commonly stocked and you’re less likely to run off the edge of the tread at extreme lean angles.

Oz also has superbike forks on his 696, so a very different beast, although I don’t know what order he did the mods in, he may know anyhow.

[Luddite]

You are, of course, right, Rob. I did actually know that so I don't know what I was thinking when I posted. Must've been another senior moment!

[Paul_]

Thanks all, I'll check out the 1100 clevis, looks like a fairly simple straight swap. Definitely prefer raising the rear a little compared to dropping the front as I can place both feet flat in the ground with the standard ride height.

[Luddite]

Originally Posted by Paul_

Thanks all, I'll check out the 1100 clevis, looks like a fairly simple straight swap.

It is indeed fairly straightforward - you just need to find some way of supporting the rear end while you detach the shock. I use step ladders and a sturdy spade or similar under the subframe.



If your 696 is ABS, you should be able to remove the top mount nut without having to lift the tank. If it's non-ABS, the tank is different and you may have to raise it slightly to get enough clearance to undo the nut.



Both the top nut and the shock bolt should be torqued to 42Nm after applying molybdenum grease.

[chris.p]

Originally Posted by slob

120/60 is lower profile than 120/70, the second number (height) is a percentage of the first (width). DD racers regularly use (or at least did) 70 profile tyres, both because they’re more commonly stocked and you’re less likely to run off the edge of the tread at extreme lean angles..

Spot on Slob, when i first started racing I used a 120/60 on my CBR400, this was great for speed of turn in, (but as you rightly said) I paid the price of that in morning practice at Mallory (before they put Edwina's in), I ran off the edge of the rear tyre on the right handers of Lake Esse's at about 90 to 100mph, very painful, although no broken bones, after that I stuck to a 120/70 front.

[slob]

ahhh, the original Mallory, no bus-stop meant the devil’s elbow deserved it’s name too